Aluminum Radiator Install w/ timing and pump

Found this video here. I'll be doing this in the morning, after making a trip to Home Depot for the clear hose. Makes a lot of sense, and I want to make sure the Heater Core is flushed thoroughly.

https://youtu.be/M9SIafVsqyc

On our trucks (1st gen at least) the inlet/outlet is pretty much in the center of the firewall directly behind the throttle body.

The inlet has that little black box on it. So according to the video, you want to run your supply hose in the fitting closer to the camera (passenger side) and then run the hose from the fitting further away, in to your bucket.

I currently have Super Flush in the system. I'm going to let it soak over night.

 

Man we are living the same life! haha

 

Sub’d

 

Sub’d

 

careful, you might end up bending the inlet/outlet of the heater core.

 

You are correct to point that out. I can see how someone might do that. The hoses were on there SOLID... Fortunately for me, I was patient and carefull and did not have a problem getting the hoses off.

You just have to take time with it.

 

Since I was replacing them I just cut them off,

 

Patience it's something we can always be reminded of. Thank you and great work!

 

So, here's an update on my Timing Belt / Water Pump etc. kit.

I just ordered these parts 2 days ago. I did contact the seller (through Ebay) to tell them I needed the parts by the weekend and to ask if they could ship overnight. I was plesantly suprised they messaged me back in less than 30 minutes... unfortunately they would not expidite shipping (even at my cost). They said they would process the order as soon as I made it and make sure the order was shipped ASAP and that I should have it by Saturday anyway. Well, according to the tracking, it was not shipped till 7:34 PM last night... and it's currently tracking to arrive on Monday... that's not good.

So a few minutes ago I recieve this Email from them.

Overall... I'm definately happy with the amount of communication from this seller. And I do understand mistakes happen. But this is 2 strikes now.

The fact that the kit is 100% OEM is a definate plus. Most of the kits I saw on Amazon were a mix of OEM and non-OEM. But most of them, on Amazon, came with a Motorad Thermostat. DO NOT USE A MOTORAD THERMOSTAT.

Motorad is "supposedly" fail safe. They claim they protect your motor from overheat. The way they do this is if the system gets too hot (even one time) the thermostat sticks open to allow water to keep flowing to cool the system... the problem is once it sticks open like that, it never closes again. And there have been many reports that they stick open at temps BELOW what they are supposedly rated at.

On a motor, like a Chevy 350, where the Thermostat is easily accessed for replacement, the Motorad might not be a bad idea (I still wouldn't use it though) But on our trucks, where it takes a couple hours just to be able to see the bolts on the thermostat housing... a Motorad thermostat is a terribly bad idea.

Anyway... I'll keep posting about my experience with Aircabinman and their Timing/Waterpump kit.

 

Is that rad a direct fit? How was the install?

 

I haven't gotten to the install yet. Still waiting on other parts to arrive before I reassemble.

 

So here's how I'm running hoses for the heater core flush. It is 5/8id hose and some 5/8 fittings.

I'm going to flush reverse of the normal flow till I get clean water (that is the way it's run in this picture.) Then I am going to flush with the normal flow till I get clean water again.

Following the advise in the video NOT to run too much pressure.

 

I'm curious why your flushing the heater core separately, then the whole system.

 

Here is a better picture of the inlet and outlet on the heater core. As you can see, they are thin aluminum. @tony2018 made a very good point to be careful with these.

 

Because I want to make absolutely sure it's clean. It's the biggest pain in the ass, in the entire system, to replace (in my opinion). And... if you flush with the whole system and there is garbage in the heater core... you will only be flushing it further in to the heater core. If you flush reverse of the normal flow, the garbage (theoretically) will flush back out easier, and better.

 

Ok... so now that the heater core is clean, I bi-passed the heater core and switch and re-flushed again. I didn't want to force the old garbage right back in to the heater core. Then I ran the truck up to operating temp full of distilled water and flushed 2 more times.

I think we're good. I did all this, as a preventative measure, so I don't just pump old dirty coolant in to a brand new radiator and water pump.

 

So, the guy in the big brown truck stopped by to say hi.


Rock Auto got it done for me.

 

Checked tracking on my items from Aircabinman. It's still saying the estimated delivery is Monday... but the package is on it's way to my local Post Office right now.


My mom went down there to see if they can make sure to get it here tomorrow. They know her by name down there. It's a small local office and my mom is always sending packages to her "Soldiers" (two of my sons) in Iraq and Korea.

 

I had a lot of question if the Champion radiator is "direct fit." Once I got the old radiator out, I took a minute to mock it up and answer those questions.

The radiator, it's self, fits the mounting holes perfectly, it sits where there wont be any problem closing the hood. All of the fittings are in the correct locations.


Now... for the shroud... You WILL have to trim it. (this is at least the case on a 6 cyl, Auto). The bottom of the shroud hits the petcock with this much room that it needs to drop.


I just hacked the crap out of it. If I need to do something different later, the shroud isn't hard to find or replace.

 

Looks like the champion radiator has the 20" core.