Torque Converter installation

It’s hard to describe but your description of starting in second gear is what it kind of feels like

I don’t know if calling it a slip was correct. The rpm gauge never suddenly goes high

 

Thats great news !!!

Double check your fluid level and do a battery disconnect after your morning coffee .
Hoping all goes well

 

I hope that is all it is

Thank you for your advice.

 

Well, first step I just disconnected both the negative and Positive terminals on the battery and let sit for 15 minutes.
upon connecting the battery and starting it up, the check engine light remained on and the truck still exhibits what feels like the limp mode.

are there any other steps to get this to clear?

Also, when shifting from drive into nuetral and then in to reverse, the trucks shift into reverse fairly hard.

I am going to continue on to checking the fluid again.

 

I am stuck

The engine light will not clear
I checked the fluid following the procedure to let the temp light get to where it needed to be and it is a slow trickle at running temp required

It seems like it is stuck in this limp mode

Any ideas?

 

Why don’t you pull the codes ??

 

Doing that now

On the drive to autozone outside of starting off in what seems like limp mode once it gets going it has no issues accelerating or shifting gears etc

I was able to go 55 without issie

 

This looks to me like it happened when I connected the battery without the tranny installed

There couldn’t possibly be this many things wrong

 

Well , it looks like the ECM did see you remove the wiring harness .
Thats the reason there are so many codes .
Did autozone clear them ?
I think you are going to need a cheap scanner capable of clearing codes to get this critter working propelry .
Considering all new trucks are completely computer controlled , a possible suggestion would be a scan guage .
https://www.scangauge.com/products/scangauge-ii/
Once you have the guage installed you can clear trouble codes on your own plus you get to monitor your transmission temperature in real time

 

Problem solved
The main ECU harness was not seated fully
Reseated it and locked it in

Lights gone and truck drives normally now

Thanks @gearcruncher for all your advice and for steering me in the right direction

 

Good job.

 

Sorry to bump an old thread but I’m currently in the same boat for trying to reinstall a removed auto trans (mines a 4.0 4wd 2012) and I’m trying to figure out the proper procedure for installing it

@gearcruncher so is it TC on trans then install the trans? Also where the heck is the inspection window? Should I be removing the starter and doing it through that opening?

 

The converter and transmission are installed as 1 piece always .
Make sure the converter is all the way into the transmission ...Dont let the converter creep out as you are lifting the trasnsmission into place .
At the same time you are aligning the dowel pins on the engine block , you are also alingning the bolts holes for the converter on the flywheel .
Removing the starter gives you a place to turn the engine over with a large screwdriver against the teeth of the flywheel .
Do not tighten the converter bolts completely until all the converter bolts have been installed .

 

Ok so the starter opening IS the correct place to install the bolts?

One more question while we're on the topic; with so many of the items drained of the ATF, is it ok to start it up, or do you need to purge the system or force fill everything first?

 

You can dump a quart in the converter neck and then add some to the pan .
This way your trans has some fluid for start up .

 

Gearcruncher
I have a question about seating torque converter on a 340e transmission in a 1989 4runner. I done a few chevy turbo 350's and 400's and never had to spend anytime at all to get it correct. I have tried for a considerable time to seat the converter on the 2 pump splines (the 2 innermost notches on the converter) but cannot get it to seat. I have spun and gently pushed until I'm blue in the face.Can u give some advice

 

I guess A few questions to begin .
Is this the original converter from the transmission ? I suggest emery cloth on the pilot hub and some grease on the converter where it fits into the back of the crankshaft . You can pre-fit the converter into the rear of the crankshaft
Why are you installing the transmission?
Can you see any signs of spline damage if you shine a flashlight into the converter ?
If you look closely at the splines on the transmission , do they all look good ? sometimes a tiny file is needed to remove damage
Does the transmission pump turn ? Take a small screwdriver , with a flashlight try turning the pump .
Look at the lugs inside the pump as well

I have had a few stubborn converters in the past .
If you are able , stand the transmission up so the weight of the converter is also applied to the splines as you spin the converter . This always works providing the above mentioned has already been checked

 

Its the original convertor The engine was bad 275K and had the most severely burnt valves on drivers side I've ever seen. I pulled the engine and transmission to replace the motor. I just pulled the convertor to replace the seal before I put everything back together. The two sets of splines look good. The two lugs on the pump look good. I haven't tried to spin the pump but will try that today. The 4runner moved good enough to load it on the trailer when I bought it, so I was hoping transmission was okay?
Thanks

 

I do this but follow the guidelines for the special black bolt as the first bolt in the TC.

 

This is what I do.