What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Thats the holy Trinity of auto gauges right there. Although you can exchange trans temp for engine oil temp in a manual.

 

This is nothing, but it might help someone in the future.

Heater/defrost blower fan had been running slower and slower over the months. Finally to the point of stalling out and not coming on when selected. A few love taps with the fist on the elec motor would get it to slowly run again. Had the time to take it out a few days ago and have a look. Unit was pretty clean,,,a little bit of dust on the hamster wheel fan,,but nothing crazy. Blew it out with compressed air. Decided to hook it to a 10 amp 12v hobby battery for a test before shitcanning it and moving on. Made the connection and it ran,,very very slowly at first,,picking up speed as it was running,,till it was at full sing a minute or so later. Repeated the test a few minutes later and it was at full sing on connection,, trying to torque out of my hand. Let it cool off over night and tried the same test several times the next day. Same results. spinning at full speed when connected. Reinstalled it in the truck and it has been fine so far. Full air movement when selected. Very strange. Usually when blower fans go out they stop while in operation or don't come on at all no matter how hard you beat on it. This is the original 1999 OEM fan.

I believe I reconditioned the commutator brushes a bit with the fresh charged hobby battery. Just an idea. Elec motor hangs down when installed, so the weight of the fan and crap had shoved the built-in endplay on the armature down and away. Allowing it to spin up unrestricted while being held horizontally had deglazed the brushes and cut a somewhat fresh path on the commutator. Like I posted,,,just an idea. Don't toss them immediately when you think they are bad. After you remove them give them a zap first with a small charged 12v battery. Hang onto it good when you do this. It's a strong motor.

I don't know,,just some ramblings,,but it might help someone.

 

For as much as I want to swap a manual in, I'm probably just gonna do a valve body upgrade and keep the manual

 

Well, if your welder is at all stand-up, ask him to take a close look at the side still mounted and then at the one you cut off and say, "I was wondering how come these look so different?"

 

Id skip the tranny gauge, your scan gauge can do that quite well.

 

I haven't been able to find the code that shows that yet.

 

I don't have it or a scan gauge, but i know it does it as lots of folks on here do that.

 

@Digiratus

 

My trucks safe to drive with the front drive shaft right? Just double checking...

Decided I might as well replace both Ujoints since I have it out anyway...

 

Link to do this?

 

I'll look into finding what it is. I'd like to be able o see it though

 

Igor: Double Cab 4x4. Frankenstein's Helper

 

Sounds a lot more like a dude with his own welder than anyone I'd actually call a welder. If he doesn't pay attention to how the piece should line up, I'd be wary of his welds as well. @1st4x4

 

Yeah it's fine

 

Here is what I have in my notes for the trans temp xgauge code.

Trans Temp
TXD: 68 6A F1 01 B4
RXF: 04 41 05 B4 00 00
RXD: 28 08
MTH: 00 09 00 05 FF D8

 

Sweet. I'll put it in and see if it works.

 

Trans Temp
TXD: 68 6A F1 01 B4
RXF: 04 41 05 B4 00 00
RXD: 28 08
MTH: 00 09 00 05 FF D8

 

I think you got me mistaken for the other truck. The ones in the image your talking about isn’t my sliders. That is another truck.

 

Just spray some lube around these spots. Helps a lot.

Snowbash-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Snowbash-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Snowbash-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

 

that's unfortunate. when i get some time ill see if adjusting the pedal can help at all. might need to tear it apart at some point and figure out whats happening in there :/