What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Yeah, I know. I just added for what they're supposed to look like.

 

Thank you!

I have the white lithium grease from Toyota's finest dealer (in their own mind) and each time I go out, the rear double cab doors get caked with dust.
It's time to dive in and clean up some crap...

 

This thread moves way too fast.

No roller fairlead for steel cable? Any reason why?

I have the e-locker motor guard and I don't think I've ever seen it get a scratch. Gas tank skid would be worth it IMO. The LCA and Diff skids are meh, if you are worried about bashing your diff, I would just weld some more metal to the bottom, especially around the diff plug ring. Almost had mine back itself out on me from rubbing on rocks. Had to tack it shut. Still need to address that.

In the same boat with the skid. Mine is smushed in and so is the tank. But it took 4 years and one incident for it to happen. That said, still wish I did it before the incident.

Also @Squeaky Penguin my 5100's are still going strong, just sayin.

 

I finished installing my OME lift.
I installed the back last week and was driving around like a stink bug while I waited for the front components to arrive.

 

I just hit the latches on both doors with WD40 after I had reassembled them from installing the handles, and it worked great. But if you're really wanting to get thorough with it, take the door panels off like mentioned above and hit all the mo

My handles are opening like brand new now (like they should be, since they are brand new...for the 3rd time) all because the latches hadn't been oiled in forever. It's definitely something to make a regular habit out of doing.

 

Yeah I just didn't know if it would be as solid as an actual bar covering the whole surface like the stock setup.

No clue. I was thinking maybe 1/4-3/8" if I do it. Not sure if I will end up doing it though.

Yeah nothing is broken and he said it wasn't far off from stock so I don't know if I will mess with it.

 

If you have a steel hawse a roller isn't required. Just can't use an aluminum hawse with steel cable. Also can't use a steel hawse with synth cable after it's been used on steel cable cause the burrs will eat the synth.

 

Looks good! A little hard to see but in the front "after" pic, your outer CV boots look like the fins are pretty crunched up against one another...if so then the inners are probably just as bad or worse. Might want to look into a diff drop/tilt kit to help it out some, or before long you'll have a busted boot and a ton of grease everywhere (ask me how I know). Honestly though my diff drop didn't really do much to help mine. I had to lower the preload on my coilovers which made the biggest difference. Can you post a couple close up pics of the inner/outer boots?

Also, spraying the boots with silicone spray every so often is supposed to help prolong their life, so I've heard.

 

Mine came with a steel hawse, it's been fine with synth, it has a really heavy powder coat. My winch came with steel cable and that might have eaten the PC over time but I ditched that right away, steel hawses are cheap though which is a plus.

 

They are going to look different the drivers side is bent and pushed in. He welded them in the same position

He welded it to the same spot as the drivers side which lines up better since it's bent. He didn't pay attention to the tire just put it in the same spot as the drivers side and welded it on. He can weld but is in no means a fabricator

 

Awesome thanks! Learning about this winch stuff now that I have my own to deal with. But I have synth, and ordered a blue aluminium fairlead because blue. But was curious on his steel cable setup.

 

Thanks for the heads up! Here are the pics. The kits are cheep and do not look to hard to install so let me know if you think it is necessary.

Driver:


Passanger:

 

Actually those angles don't look terrible, maybe a bit better than mine were when one of my boots split open. My inners were the worst, the two most inner fins were rubbing pretty good and eventually split after maybe 3 months. I'd say just keep a close eye on it for awhile, if you can see some signs of wear then it might be good to try a drop.

 

Ill be sure to hit 'em with lube and keep an eye on them. Thanks again for tip!

 

Thanks for the thorough response

 

Anyone know the bolt size to hold the front brakes lines.

 

Waving the white flag on getting the ujoint out of my front drive shaft.

Was doing more damage than good so I took it to a shop...

 

www.tacomaworld.com/threads/aircabinman-kit-review.537489/

 

12mm bolt head with m8 threads

 

Do all of these numbers need to be entered? Will it work for a manual trans not sure if I even have a temp gauge on the trans