Help with Cargo Trailer Purchase

Background info:
Tow rig- 2014 Tacoma Trd Sport 4x4 - tow package - Automatic trans

Equipped with:
-Leer 180 bed cap (high top version)
-Firestone RideRite Airbags with Daystar Cradle
- toytec 3in lift Bilstein 5100 with add a leaf in rear
- wheels/tires - 18" FN BFD with TOYO Open country (10,000miles on tires)

My better half and I have some time off and are planing a journey around the Unites States possible some Canada and Alaska this summer. We want to buy a cargo trailer thinking 6x12 V-Nose single axel (3500lb) with add on electric brake system to build a conversion camper. Simple to hold a bed, gear such as - cook burner, propane, electric fridge, 200w solar panel system, 20-30 gallon of water. I have seen many other conversion cargo trailers with similar set up stating they weight around 2500-2800lb loaded.

On to the Questions-

1. Where is a good place ( or brand trailer) to purchase a cargo trailer? I found few company down in Georgia within reasonable price. Are there any kind of quality building parts to look for when it comes to these basic kind of trailers? Link of one trailer provide below
http://vi.vipr.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBay...descgauge=1&cspheader=1&oneClk=1&secureDesc=0

2. Do you think adding the weight distribution/ stabilizer hitch bar set is needed for this kind of towing? Will I be ok without one, or better yet will there be much more notice in towing performance and safety at my weight I am towing?


3. Trailer options- I was thinking 6x12 single axle, but would a 7x14 dual axle be much more of a difference to pull with the tacoma? I know the 7' wide will add some more drag but anything noticeable? Also how much side view will I lose with the mirrors?
Will the extra 2' hurt anything other then wide turning?
The dual axle can carry a heavier load but also adds more tow resistance due to the fact there are 4 wheels on the trailer and the trailer will be heavier itself.

I have some towing experience but only short distances with a 14ft jon boat and uhaul trailer (6x10).
Please feel free to share any kind of knowledge/ experience of towing, cross country trips, building cargo conversion trailer... I am open minded and greatly appreciate it.

THANKS in advance everyone!

 

I know lots of people up here in Canada bought trailers originating from Georgia and were really pissed afterwards. Very cheaply built. Unfortunately I don’t have names / makes to help separate the good from the bad. Just make sure you know the specs and go over each one with a fine tooth comb. Everything looks the same from the outside.

I have a 7 x 14 w/2.5’ v-nose. You definitely need strap on or clamp on mirrors. I would also say get the weigh distribution hitch. Not nessecarily required but just do it. Otherwise you have to be very careful with tongue weights and how you load the trailer. When there is an option always go double axle. They just handle nicer and if you get a flat you can usually get off the highway provided you aren’t already maxed out weight wise.

If you can get the 12’ in a double axle go that way. Longer means more tongue weight or you end up weighting the rear more so for travel and then moving stuff around when you stop. If you had a full sized truck with a higher tongue weight rating everything changes. With only 500lbs rated on the tongue you have to be careful. Then you can get into aluminum frame trailers which are awesome on weight and dig even deeper into your pocket.

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My biggest suggestion is plan plan and then plan some more. It is real easy to find your weights ballon fast. I am constantly making changes to mine. My plan to put my battery bank near the front in the v-nose has been abandoned due to 4 golf cart batteries weighing 85lbs EACH. Plus the issue of venting to the outside before you blow yourself up. Or going completely sealed batteries and losing some ah. Have you considered adding windows from the factory? Saves adding them later. Nothing sucks quite like listening to the rain on the roof while stuck inside your sealed box. I would wedge open the side door while holding it semi-closed by a bungee cord. Works ok until the wind changes and you get drenched. Yeah windows are a biggie.

I forgot to add. The weight won’t be the issue towing. It is the wind resistance. My flatbed I don’t even feel when weighted the same as the enclosed. The enclosed is a big parachute.

 

Thanks for the reply Exracer2

I must admit I posted this thread before recently reading a lot of good info already posted. I always thought of the tacoma as a toy, not much of a towing truck. But after reading other post of guys towing well over 4,000lb all over the face of the earth, I will most like looking into either purchasing a 7x12 or 7x14 dual axel over the 6x12 single + the W/D anti sway hitch. As you stated for the handling, flat tire situation, and I can use the trailer for heavier loads if needed later after Im done using the trailer as a camper. But for the road trip I plan to stay around 3,000lb

Yes, I have considered having which ever company I order from to add windows into the trailer and the RV style locking door latch, those are a must. I will install 1 maybe 2 electric vents on top depending on the build plan. I was thinking of going with 2 sealed amg but again depending on the pricing and build/ what I can get my hands on for the battery, I know they weigh quite a bit.

Damn I did read a few post about not buying the trailer from Georgia, but I could not find the actual details explaining why the trailers from Georgia were shit. I plan to open what ever trailer I get up and insulate the walls and ceiling. I also have a welder and can weld the framing or what ever if needed. I thought these trailers are so basic consisting of a frame, wood/siding, and axles that they were built relatively equal all around. I have read that most stock tires are junk the cargo trailers come with. I will be on the road for thousands of miles so will defiantly be carrying a spare or 2.

Any recommendations which W/D anti sway hitch to look for and which ones to avoid?

Any recommendations on brake controls? I found one on Amazon with 1,000+ great reviews. link below

$185 Tekonsha 90195 P3 Electronic Brake Control , silver, Single

https://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-901...d=1520249625&sr=8-4&keywords=brake+controller

thanks

 

I have a P3 after previously owning a lower model Tekonsha. They are a great unit.

In my experience with an automatic transmission in my 3rd gen Tacoma I am in 4th gear exclusively. The manual says I can use 5th but since it shifts back and forth I just keep it in 4th and take the mpg hit. With your big parachute expect your mpg to drop in half.

I am currently shopping for a WDH myself so I don’t have an answer for you at present. I tow light with basically my race bike, tools and sleeping gear but did see a little sag. I don’t feel anything out of the ordinary but if it saves my rear springs over time then it is worth it.

Here is my setup.


Windows are going in as soon as it warms up. The roof is getting insulted for heat retention and to keep the aluminum from cooking me in summer. This is what I am using. 1” thick semi rigid fiberglass w/ aluminum backing. Not cheap but I want it to be insulation both for heat and noise because rain will drive you nuts on that aluminum roof.

 

What kind of solar set up are you using?
I am think simple 200w Renogy will meet my needs with about 250ah total battery

 

I assume you are talking about the two tone trailers on ebay "factory" direct in Georgia? I was considering one until I saw someone at a gas station with one and they let me look at it and told me how much a POS it was. Very cheap materials and build quality was missing, seams that barely overlapped and leaked, he said one hub seized on the way home from picking it up, and some other issues.

 

I have 4 x 100w renogy monocrystalline panels, renogy commander 40w MPPT charge controller, 4 x interstate batteries 12v 150ah deep cycle flooded golf cart batteries.

So basically I have a shit ton of power capability. I started with 2 panels and batteries but in testing I was limited in my daytime power use IF I needed to replenish the batteries from nighttime loads. I am sure I would have been fine as it was but since I have a connect at interstate which drops the batteries to cost I figured do more batteries and 2 more panels. Make sure you buy a larger controller than you expect to need IN CASE you find a need to upgrade your input capacity later. Luckily I did exactly this otherwise I wouldn’t have upgraded due to the cost of needing to upgrade to a larger controller as well.

I hope my 3 year old daughter will go camping with me starting this year. Her mother thinks camping has continental breakfast and mints on her pillow so it could be a whole family “adventure” as I have to accommodate 2 newbies. Having excess power (without running the generator) is the plan to making it more successful for everyone.

Generators are sometimes a nessecity so you have have to balance their need vs the noise and respect for your neighbors. I require one at the racetrack for high draw items like tire warmers. When not explicitly needed it never runs due to noise and neighbors. That is what my solar setup is for. I should now be able to run my 24” fan and still top up my batteries somewhat.

 

Yeah, that is the one company I am talking about. There is another company similar also in Georgia with similar price as well. Been searching around and I found a few other companies but their trailers are "no name brand as well". From the specs and pictures Im assuming all the no name trailers may be all manufactured down in either of the Georgia factories...

Im located in PA but I am on the road along the south and east sometimes so I could pick up a trailer an where along my trips.

 

Why not purchase a small travel trailer? It might cost a bit more upfront but you could sell it after your travels at not much loss, unless you plan to keep the utility trailer for utility uses later. You’re going to tow 3000lbs and get 11mpg either way, might as well do it in comfort.

 

Sounds like you have it down. My trip consist of us moving around frequently so working on a setting up my solar batteries to be hooked up with my truck alternator with 1/0 cable using a 140 amp Battery Smart Isolator inbetween the truck battery to the trailer solar battery to help charging while moving. I believe with the tow package the 130amp alternator could help charging the solar battery while driving pretty decent correct?

I have not done the calculations of the complete needed ah and watts but as of now at most I can see us running the solar system to- charge phone/laptops/cameras/go pro gear, run small 12v RV water pump 1.2gpm, roof vents (on during the night), and the 85qt 12v fridge and the Ninija smoothy Blender (1200w) draws the most. I am familiar with not discharging the battery more than 50%... the basic of the solar rules.

 

Im a DIYer, enjoy projects and main reason as you stated I can use the trailer later to haul toys and stuff. I also notice that enclosed trailers relatively hold their value well even after few years, if I decided to sell it which I highly doubt. We have looked into the camper/travel trailer route but the enclosed trailer seems to be more of our interest.

 

Using the truck to charge the batteries will help a ton on getting things recharged. For your smaller appliances with heavy draw like the blender you might find a generator is the way to go for short durations. That all depends on how many daiquiris you consume while stopped.

My neighbor got pissed with me when answering his questions regarding how much solar you need (for his small travel trailer). There are no hard set in stone numbers. It all depends on your draw and your replenishment. One person could survive on a small 40w system while others with the same setup may need 400w and a massive battery bank due to living like they were at home. There are lots of calculators online on just about every solar site. They get you in the ballpark numbers wise but I guarantee your actual usage will be much lower or much higher. I know in my case it all depends on the daytime use. IF I run my big fan on hot days between races it pretty much eats all my generating capacity leaving nothing to top up the batteries. IF I run the radio non stop plus lights plus...... you get the picture. I have to be aware of what I am using and conserve where possible. What happens if I camp under shade? Basically calculate to get close and then leave room for expansion. Once you test your actual system you will find out how much capacity you have / need. Read up on MPPT and PWM controllers as well as polycrystalline vs monocrystalline panels. Not all products are the same and you can save / spend money foolishly by buying less efficiency to save yet loss out more in capacity / efficiency than you saved ($ spent vs w generated / converted). I bought a PWM controller at first not realizing the differences other than the HUGE price differential. If I only needed power intermittently and low draw when in use a PWM is a great option. But for peak efficiency and recharging daily MPPT may be the much better investment vs larger solar panel input watts. Once again do the research.

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I have a twin Serta pillow top in my trailer. It was $50 more on clearance than a foam futon mattress. Sleeping on a rock while soaking wet from the storm is less comfortable as I get older. Let the poor kids sleep on the ground like we did when we were young and poor. Pillow top all the way!

 

V nose with either size. However, you will get more stability out of a double axle.
Before you decide, test. Measure out the area of the trailer in you bedroom/living room. Approximate the size of the bed and any structure you plan to add. See if it is doable for your situation.

 

I have decided on 7x14 with dual axle for sure. We have the lay out of the trailer set up for the 6x12 but with price difference of the 7x14 with the extra space, dual axle, electric brakes... the 7x14 sounds much more worthy. Only down side would be more tires to replace, bearings, slightly wider turn radius, possibly add extended side mirror for view. Am I missing anything? At the end of the day Im not worried about the MPG because Im sure with either trailer I will be getting very similar low mpg, nothing noticeable between the two?

Thanks for all the input everyone.

Exracer2, we are actually putting a full queen size Temper Pedic bed in the rear of the trailer! Leaving space under for the battery and storage.

 

If you really want to make money sell that trailer up here in Alaska. I’ll pretty much guarantee you could sell it for at least $1000 more than you paid for it without any haggling or hassle. I’ve seen guys buy a trailer, use it to move everything up here, sell the trailer and still have money in their pocket after calculating initial cost, gas, food, etc for the trip.