Yotarobs 4runner build

yea i have a huge party out in bandera that i have to go to ill be there like most of that week helping set up

 

I am officially considerng it, LOL. Need to check with the boss & see what is what.

 

I am definatlly going....just not sure about bring the family & where to camp

 

Anybody else?

 

I think im gonna kinda reverse Andy's approach and spend a couple hours at the party lol

 

Thanks for the imput. I've read about the new pin design, sounds good and all but I am just worried about the Spartan because it is relatively new to the market & hasn't really had enought time out to build a reputation. Do you know anybody else who has one? On my budget, I only want to buy this thing once. I also read somewhere, can't remember where, that it was only recomended up to a 33" tire. IIRC they won't warranty the locker if you run anything larger than a 33", but I am not 100% sure that is true. 33's are all I plan on running for now but that could change down the road. I am sorta leaning towards the Aussie right now because they have a solid reputation & everyone says that they stand behind there products, but I can definatlly see some advantages to the Spartan's upgraded pins. Might have to flip a coin on this one.

There you go, I like your plan better than Andy's.

 

I got an urge to wheel!! Gotta nip the bug before it gets to bad

 

Careful Jason, Don't need to know about your "reverse Andy" Approach..

 

good ole reach around

 

I do like the fact that the Spartan comes with a new hardened cross pin, I had to read that artical twice to realize that it was talking about the main pin & not just the upgraded spring pins.

 

So you agree that the Spartan is the way to go? Please vote on 1 of the 3 choices.

 

Which is why the Spartan's larger, hardened pins are better, gottcha! Thanks.

 

I just did some very interesting reading about the benifit of a body lift. A guy on yotatech installed a 2" BL & then made both motor mount and crossmember lift blocks to get his oil pan, tranmission & transfercase higher up in between the frame rails for protection. He even made a fuel tank lift to get it up and out of the way. Seems like a cheap & easy way to gain some ground clearance for all of the things that hang down low & drag on the trail.
Here is the 4crawler link he used for info.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/DrivetrainLift/index.shtml

 

You got that right....

What do you think about the body lift thing? I know that BL's are not desirable, but it make alot of sense if you lift everything else with it.

 

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/idler/

Saving this link I ran across for later. My Idler arm bushings are busted & This link walks you through rebuilding it. Apparentlly it is a comon issue. I have seen a few bronze bushing kits that upgrade the arm, I think I will make my own bushings.

 

The idea for mine would be to lift the low hanging drive train & make room under the truck to raise the fuel tank up in between the frame rails. By lifting the body I could put spacers between the motor mounts & frame to lift the engine, then use the Budbuilt (or home made version anyway) cross memeber to raise the trans & transfer case up the same amount. The cross member currently hangs very low & raising it would give me a lot more clearance for rocks, same with the fuel tank. I am thinking about a 2" BL & lifting everything under the truck the same 2".

 

I'm all over it

 

The final pro that I can see is that I can make everything I need to do it myself. Even the BL.

I have been looking at new torsion bars for a cheap inch or 2 of front lift. The OME bars are around $180 which is not bad, but they are larger diameter bars which will stiffen up the front end & limit flex. I have read alot about people using Ball Joint spacers instead & keeping the factory Bars because it keeps the front suspension nice & soft, keeping tires on the ground.

 

The Blaze Land delux kit does come with SAW torsion bars. I am sure I could use the OME instead if I already had them.

 

http://www.budbuilt.com/new/cross_members.html

Check out the Bud Built cross members, he even makes them for the BL & drive train lift I am talking about.

Marlin also recomends that you put a 7 deg. tappered shim between the rear axle & spring to correct the drive shaft angle when you do the drive train lift.