Adjusting Fox 2.5 Coilovers

That's what I'm saying. I believe that's how it works. I know there's been much debate about this process but that's how it makes sense to me.

 

Yeah its called the chevy 63 leaf swap!

 

We're discussing Fox 2.5 Coilovers. 63's would be pretty tough to fab to an IFS!

 

My bad you said springs not leafs.

 

Cranked up my coilovers tonight. Went an additional 11 turns which came out to 3/4”. So my total amount of threads showing is just under 2 3/4”. That bumped my center hub to bottom fender flare up to 24”. I haven’t got it aligned yet or moved the truck so I know it will come down a little

 

A longer spring with the same rate will just have less threads showing but the same amount of preload if lift height doesn’t change. Only reason to go to a longer spring with same rate is if your running into coil bind. If you put a higher spring rate in then there is less preload to achieve the same lift; however, you now have a higher spring rate which will stiffen the ride.

 

How much down travel from static height?
Pics of drive axle boots?

 

I’ll have to measure the down travel
Here’s a pic of the drivers side axle

 

Do you have a light on that camera? Lol
I can't tell anything because the pic is so dark.

 

S

Same issues I was going through. Crank em back down. Anything over 23 inch hub to fender is not going to be worth it. Will loose your down travel.. I'm back at 22.5 inch hub to fender and am happy

 

It actually looks pretty good to me. Based on your cv boot and where the shock housing sits in the coil. You can see just a couple of inches of piston, which means you're somewhere in the middle of the range.

 

But yeah. Flip that light on lol

 

How’s this

 

damn. that's better.

Now that there's light, the boots look like they are touching at the accordians - which means your angles look a little high and you will blow through the cv boots quick. In other words, not great. how many threads you say you are showing? 2 3/4"? 24" hub to fender?

IMO you should turn em back down to around 2" thread showing max. do it before you align.

 

Agree with Adam. You went a bit too high. Your down travel/droop is surely suffering as well. These things are a juggling match of finding the max amount of lift where other aspects don't suffer (down travel, ride stiffness, drive Axle boots shitting the bed too soon). If it were mine, I'd lower it a bit but it's not so do as you please! Ideally it'd be:
~23", boot ribs not rubbing, ride great and ~3" of down travel. That's MY idea for the perfect setting. That'd be right around where Fox says is max on these (1.925" of exposed threads which equals 27 exposed threads). YMMV.


(All of the above measurements are true for 2nd AND 3rd gen)

 

I added 11 full turns so 27+11 is 38 threads. It’s real close to 2 3/4” of threads showing. My center hub to bottom fender flare measurement is 23”
When it was at 27 threads showing that measurement was 21”
Wondering how much a diff drop would realistically help the boots. I’ve had 2.5 and 3 inch lifts on a 1st gen Tacoma and a 3rd gen 4Runner. The Tacoma had a diff drop. Seemed like it didn’t matter if it had the diff drop or not. Cv boots just blew frequently

Edit: I have roughly 3 inches of wheel downtravel

 

Subd

 

This confuses the shit out of me. Spring rate by definition is the amount of weight it takes to compress the spring 1 inch. So let's say you have 2 600 lb rated springs side by side, 1 is 13 inches long, 1 is 14 inches long. You then set 600 lbs on top of each. The first spring will now be 12 inches tall, the second will be 13 inches tall.

So how the hell you get the same lift height out of 2 different length springs?I don't get it.

 

The coilover will be the same length overall in both scenarios, providing the same lift. I think you’re confusing threads showing on the coilover with preload. If the longer spring is 13” when compressed then you’d have less threads showing to get to the same height as a shorter spring at 12” but the same preload. If you were to take a 13” spring out and replace it without moving threads with a longer spring (of the same rate) then the height would be higher because it’s preloaded more.

 

Yeah I get that but I guess what I'm trying to say is that if you use a longer spring (assuming same spring rate) you can get the same lift height as the shorter spring with less preload. Hence you can add some more preload to the longer spring increase lift height without getting the harshness of a heavily preloaded shorter spring. In the end, the way I see it is you could get a smoother 3 inch lift with a longer spring instead of a harsh 3 inch lift with a shorter spring.

I am I missing something?