Home Improvement Today?

Humming generally isnt a good thing. It often means a breaker is dying or isnt seated all the way. You can go to the panel and first just feel each breaker and feel if one feels warmer than the others. If it is its probably a dying breaker and should be replaced. You can also try pushing it down to see if it for some reason was making a bad connection but id still just replace it.

If things are old and you do infact have 1 bad breaker, since youll be turning off the main power anyways, might be worth it to just replace all the breakers while you are doing it.

Least that has been my (limited) experience with humming in a breaker panel in residential settings

 

Humming can come from an arc in the panel, either from a loose connection or deteriorating wire but if that’s the case then the breaker should be tripping.

 

thanks guys, I didnt think it was normal. I'll have to check it see which one is causing the problem. Its at our local American Legion building...its a really old place. I just replaced some bulbs that were out for who knows how long, and a light fixture that was also not working.

 

Got to finish the frame for my arbour today .

Finished up the cap by cutting it to length , sanding it and shaping the returns on each end




I also finished up the notching for the posts and top sub rail that will let the cap settle 1/2" down over the tops of the posts and top sub rail locking all the pieces together and limiting the chance that the posts could twist in the sun




The top cap is screwed to the assembly with 3 , 3/8" x 6" GRK RSS screws per top sub rail section (12 in total) up from the bottom through holes I pre drilled in each rail and countersunk the heads 1/2"






I can now build the lattice work panels on my work bench and install them when they are done . In the meantime we can add the soil and plants .

 

What do I do if I live in an apartment and it hums? Had a microwave short out and our whole heater shorted out. They came and replaced both, but you'd think they'd investigate the root cause...

 

They didn't replace any breakers.

 

I just bought a 4-pack of 15W (100W equivalent) Greenlite LED bulbs @ $1.99 each = less than 50 cents a bulb. The brightness of the LED is a lot better than CFL technology IMO, as is the longevity.

 

Yes, electric furnace. They blew two circuits and a fan trying to just replace parts before they realized it was the whole unit.

 

I've finally been attacking the crap bench situation i haven't been able to get to since we moved in last May.

Old bench, and there's a huge gap between the back edge and the wall because of the foundation sill. About 3.5 inches. Stupid electric layout. The surface box is 20A, the one below is 15A. All my pegboards and junk I kept on them are strewn about, and the drawers in the blue bench suck ass.


Bought an 8 foot Husky when they went on sale in January. Time for daddy Christmas. Robust as hell, height adjustable from like 29 to 42 inches, plus leveling feet. Weighs 200 lb.


I installed an MDF filler strip behind the bench top to bridge the gap. It's secured to a cleat in the wall. I ripped it down to minimize loss of bench space. Relocated the 20A outlet to a better spot for running saws, drill press, etc.


Shelving in after cutting down the steel standards to fit my space. I want 13 inches up there so binders and manuals will fit. Cleats in to space out and secure pegboards. LED strip lights will go under the front edge of the overhead cabinets, that's the white cord and blue tape for layout. So close...

 

I'm no expert, but i think codes require a dedicated circuit for a stove and other large appliances. What you're doing sounds reasonable, but it may cause problems when you go to sell or if you ever had to file a claim with insurance (i.e. stove catches on fire)

 

Stove and welder should both be on dedicated circuits

 

I should clarify that I'm no electrician so maybe it's technically possible but general practice when we have a house wired is those 2 items would be on seperate circuits

Having said that , I have also seen and have in my possesion a 220 splitter , the one I have is for a dryer plug and it comes from a Miele washer / dryer kit but I believe it is limited by the amperage draw on each of the "split" plugs

 

Ive got a couple questions on my oil furnace. I have a Peerless WB-3-085-WPCT oil fired furnace that does hydronic baseboard heat and hot water. Does anyone have a good source to get owners/service manuals? I cant find the WB series on peerless website.

My pressure relief valve developed a slow drip this weekend. About one drop of water every couple minutes. How urgent is it to fix this? Should i call a plumber immediately or can it wait a few weeks? The pressure seens to be holding steady at 15 psi even when it kicks on.

 

Does this help?
https://www.peerlessboilers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/WBV-WV_Manual_web0617.pdf

 

Thanks. I'm not sure how similar the WB and WBV series are. Based on the logos, mine appears to be much older

 

That would defenetly be bad news. I'm leaning towards doing it myself. I watched a couple tutorials on it and it looks simple. My furnace has 2 pressure relief valves, so I'm a little unsure if the one Im changing is for the potable hot water or baseboard hot water. Hopefully i can track down the manual to clear it up

 

Is there a date on the data plate?

 

Here’s another site I use for manuals and info on older stuff

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/507320/Peerless-Wbv-Series.html

 

I dont see anything. As far as i know, it's original to the house 1996-1997

 

Thats a good idea. I'll defenetly do that while I have it drained