MARYLAND TACOMAS

I mean you COULD but I think that’d still leave a larger margin for error. Best bet is to swap this before you get an alignment to really have it perfect.

 

I mean thats what you do when you do drive shaft ujoints, paint mark everythung. The flanges, the shafts, everything.

 

Yeah but that’s when taking off and putting on the same part. With it being a new part and having to transfer over the markings I don’t think it’d work very well.

Edit: and that’s just because the driveshaft is balanced so precisely, unlike these steering u joints.

 

Mine looks about the same

 

@AR15xAR10 i did sorta use your tip for fixing my every so slightly off center wheel. I marked where it was as a reference so I knew to only change it by one spline. Truck drives straight as an arrow now.

 

Attaboy

 

Mine should be arriving today, I wonder if it’s just lousy powdercoat. I’ve got a can of clear coat maybe I’ll throw on a few layers of that before I install.

 

I plan on painting mine before they are installed. Fluid film in that area likely washed off quickly. Raw steel doesn't take very long at all to start rusting, just the moisture in the air will cause rust.

 

The BJ is not coated, raw steel. Disassemble and paint before install if you don't want them to rust. Would be nice if that was done before shipping but it is what it is I suppose.

 

It’s not raw apparently. @Sundance47 sais he called and it’s clear coated. Makes sense because I had large chips of what appeared to be paint flaking off of it.

 

Guess it's just really bad quality clear lol. It's a chevy part so rust should be a given....... Steel wool, primer, paint.

 

Yeah that’s my plan. Come spring I’m going to repaint all my armor and touch up and rusty spots underneath my truck.

 

Good plan. I undercoated the frame and floors with Wurth high build undercoating and painted everything under there as soon as I got it. I get under there with a couple cans of black paint at least twice a year to go over everything. Every time I take something apart I paint behind that also just because why not.

 

Hey, how many bolts should the 2017 OEM skid plate have in it? I was under the truck this weekend and saw a hole that looks like it should have a bolt and doesn't. Damn incompetents at the Stealership.

 

Front skid is 4 bolts

 

Thanks!

So likely two in the front near the hooks and two in the back, one on each corner? And I should not be able to bounce it up to hit whatever it is protecting up there, like I can now because a Fn bolt is missing!

I called the dealer immediately. The girl said they would replace it it. I said you mean, add it. She didn't get it.

I'm glad I caught it. That could easily have gotten hung up backing up over a parking bumper at the mall.

 

One of the reasons I never take my vehicles to the dealer for anything unless I have no choice like for warranty work. They hire the cheapest "mechanics" they can and all they do is drop oil and rotate tires. On that note, better check your lug nuts also. Toyotacare isn't worth jack to me. Toyota makes a quality filter but their oil is only OK, nothing to brag about. They sub out to whoever makes it the cheapest that quarter and just throw a Toyota sticker on the bottle. For actually less money, you can use Mobil 1 which is far superior. Buy 2 of the 5 gallon jugs a walfart and you only have to buy 1 jug for the following 2 changes. Much cheaper than buying the jug and 2 quarts.

 

Yea, I hear ya. I have seen some shit in my time. And no way are they even touching my nuts, or my wheels. Oh, and Mobile 1 is always a deal on Slickdeals. I think 13 bucks with a filter for the 5 qt jug.

Here you go:

https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mobil-promotions

 

Are there any good swap meets or flea markets in MD? Doesn't have to be Toyota specific of course, I just love walking around a swap meet on a nice summer day.

 

I used to work in SO MD a lifetime ago. Back when Besche Oil was still around.