2.4l stalling issues, CEL, diagnostic help needed

Purchased a '95 2.4l few years ago with 126k (added 6k since), other than a minor tune up (plugs, wires, air filter) and overheating issues (radiator) fixed it's been very reliable up till a few months ago, which has been nothing but a nightmare since.

First off the CEL fault check bridging TE1 & E1 does nothing (CEL not blinking) and has been useless to diagnose. E1 has ground continuity.
Idle vacuum: 22inHg.
Battery: 12.5v / 14.3v
Recent maintenance / fixes:
- New PCV, O2 sensors (Bosch), regapped plugs (NGK Iridium, no visual issue)
- New exhaust valve adjustment shims (6 measured .003-.008). All 16 now within factory specs.
- New head gasket finished over the weekend. (coolant leak near CTS fixed). All timing marks to spec. Replaced injector seals/o rings, fixing leak from regulator and #2 injector.
- New knock sensor (old had broken insulator, signal wire exposed)

The issues:
Dies 5 seconds after start up, but idles great before stalling and starts immediately. After brief warm-up it'll idle without keeping the RPMs above 2k. Issue started yesterday after completing valve adjustment. FIXED - Distributor rotor position
CEL constantly on, no change after resetting ECU.
During test drive the truck will go into limp mode after full warm up.

What am I missing that could be wrong?
Thanks for any help or advice.

EDIT 3/14:
- Distributor rotor adjustment fixed 5 second after-start stalling
- Ignition coil replaced
- MAF replaced. Fixed rough idle and new no start issues. Old unit had no voltage output, previously tested OK.
- Coolant Temp Sensor replaced, assuming this was a temp related issue.
- TPS readjustment, all measurements within factory spec.
- EGR Valve cleaned and tested OK. EGT sensor OK.
- Exhaust cam backlash adjusted / reset. Fixed valve train noise.

Check engine light and low power issues after warm up still occurring, runs great cold and after resetting ECU. Still stumped.

 

Bump.

 

the truck should be "OBDII" compliant meaning that an OBDII scan tool can give you more clues... local auto parts stores can scan it for you.

 

You need a bluetooth OBDII scanner would really help. Get them off Amazon for around $20.
I use the BAFX one. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...+obd2&sprefix=bafx,aps,189&crid=1QSJH1KF34TC6

 

This has the square non-OBDII diagnostic port located on the intake manifold and uses the jump wire to get the codes. The loaner OBDII scanner at the local parts store won't fit.
Unfortunately, as mentioned in the initial post, jumping E1-TE1 connectors does nothing so the only way to diagnose is testing each sensor and wire.

 

Could you have overlooked something during your valve adjustment?

 

Wish that was the case. After initial adjustment all the clearances were checked, engine rotated a few times then rechecked.

Put a few miles with several heat cycles, let it cool overnight then rechecked....everything was within factory spec. It's been a few hundred miles since, guess it would be a good time to poke them with a feeler gauge again.

Seems the problem is closed-loop mode, temp related. Will check the 02 wiring / sensors, and the EGT sensor again. MAF, CTS, Coil, air cleaner, PCV, fuel filter all new, 02s newer. Valves in spec and timing checked with light. EGR cleaned and tested, throttle body cleaned.

What about gas cap or evap system? Issue with fuel system or pressure?

 

My first concern is why you can't get a CEL reading. Even if there are no codes, when the pins are jumped there should be a flashing light (tells you you did it right, but there are no codes)

You're probably doing it the right way, but I found this, just so you can double check. https://www.troublecodes.net/toyota/

Any chance you know someone with the same truck that you could swap in a known good ECU and see if anything changes? If not, wondering about the harness.

Lets see if @Jimmyh or @koditten have any thoughts on this. One is an electronics guy, the other has rebuilt a few older Tacomas I think.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. Neighbor next door has a perfectly running 99-00 Tacoma, he has a new daily driver and parked the truck; he'll let me borrow anything off it but his has coil packs and different sensors set up.

In mean time I robbed the weekend drag car of its wideband O2 and have been monitoring it the past few days. Occasionally it has a lean (16.3+) intermittent miss/roughness at idle but clears up after revving.
The lack of power when at normal operating temp shows anytime the engine is under load past 1/4-1/2 throttle (including freeway cruising) it goes SUPER rich and pegs the gauge at 10.1, feathering the throttle helps acceleration a little. TPS has been checked numerous times and shows everything in spec. After resetting the ECU, prior to full warm up after about 15 minutes the truck runs like a champ.

Checked VSVs for FPR / EGR immediately after running errands and noticed bogging down, both are 40.5 to 40.9 ohms, above 33-39 range. Can these cause a fault or throw a check engine code?