The Insane Asylum DCLB build and XJ insanity

I use it as a rule of thumb. lets take the Mickey Thompson rims I want they are 17x9 -12mm and are listed as 4.5'' of BS. if u take a 9'' rim and say it has a 4.5 center line then with -12mm offset it should actually have roughly 4'' of BS. if u take 9'' rim and add 1'' of lip as a rule of thumb for both front and back gives you a 5'' centre with -12mm offset ends up being 4.5 which the manufacturer lists.

 

I have had it bite me wayyy to many times to assume that take my methods for example there the lip is very minimal like .25" so my wheels are only like 9" lip to lip measurement. Based on his calculations they would be off. I just don't assume anything unless I can get the specs from the manuf. and run the calculations to make sure of that. There are wheels with no lips also. Then bead locks is a whole other realm. That is why I negate the lip when I run my calculations. You get end up much more accurate in the end when running the conversions and don't end up screwing your self.

Oh no I get it, it can be a rule of thumb I just don't use that. I have seen so many variables with the lip that I just decided to go away from using it in my calculations I get where you got yours now though. Just 2 different methods.

 

yeah fair enough hahaha I think that's why I do the math the way he says and then look at what the manufacturer lists. cuz in theory if they didn't use the 1/2'' rule of thumb then the two should not end up being the same you would think? if the two don't match up, then it would be worth investigating into how come, and try to find the specs on the rim to determine how wide the lip actually is, or find out if they list an outside to outside measurement. just something else I need to take into consideration now hahahaha I haven't been screwed over yet and no one has been mad at me for shity advice yet either

 

So like when measuring the wheel for balancing we measure at the mounting sueface or where the bead seats. There are some factory steel wheel cars that have like a 3/4" lip there to hold hubcaps on but only on the front side the back lip could be the 1/2" or whatever. I learned to never go based on generalizations in the wheel and tire game. I would much rather get the specs from the manufacturer and go from there. Thankfully now a days most wheel manufacturers are going with offset for their specs and leaving BS out of it. Offset is a definitive because it has to do with the true center of the wheel based on the width not adding any lips or glamrings etc to that width to throw you off.

 

Sub’d AF!

@FadedComa

 

Truck is coming along nicely Skip.

So what isbthe story behind the silver cap that came with the truck? Did you sell it off then bought @EatSleepTacos old cap?

 

makes sense and now that you mention it, I have noticed some companies don't list a BS. There has to be some secret to cracking the code, like a cheat sheet or something hahaha if the company does not list a BS on their website then base the BS off the listed width and offset and do not add any extra width for the lips and if they do list the BS u can add a lip? hahahaha I would hate to not buy a rim I like just because I cant find the true outside width measurement online. why cant it just be easy and all companies just use a generic way to determine it? ahahaha

 

You are like the flu. You are everywhere

 

just re read this and I will have to ponder on this. so instead of using BS to determine poke and shit, base it off the offset?

 

If they don't provide BS don't worry abt it go with the regular width they list bc in reality that lip doesn't mean shit to anything on the rim except maybe BS. It has nothing to do with the bead seat or anything.

 

He's becoming the new ChadsPride and scooter aka scottalott.

 

Yep sold it to a hispanic feller. I didn't like the slope up in the back and this one is flat. Plus the contrasting color to me makes it look less long than a huge blob of silver.

 

I just like picking ur brain

 

Don't pick it too hard I suffer from CRS and that may increase it even more.

Some sound advice just take everything you read on the internet with a grain of salt even my BS. Like I helped a fellow member change his starter there was all this BS on here that you had to take the exhaust loose or drop the f driveshaft. All that was nonsense every thread telling guys to do it the long and hard way. The damn thing comes out the DS fender well. Take the bolt loose that holds the hard brake like to the frame gently move it a liitle out of the way and it's out. You can get to all the bolts and everything through the fenderwell.

 

I have no idea the specs of my wheels, the previous owner already had them on when I bought my yota. Nor could I provide a link since they have so many different sizes of my same wheel. Ill have to do the old school tape measure way when ever i find time.

 

hahahaha yeah man, I usually just use it as a starting point for knowledge. read enough different ways to do something and you can piece it together. but like you said, take it with a grain of salt. being mechanically inclined and having a base knowledge of how things works. oh and common sense helps too hahaha but on the plus side, if I have to change my starter I know who to ask hahaha

 

fair enough hahaha well I think between me and skip here I think we could get you set up with some wheels you would be happy with hahaha

 

What wheels are they?

 

not sure what that means