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Sound Deadener Recommendations

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by TXTaco13, Feb 21, 2018.

  1. Mar 12, 2018 at 10:24 PM
    #41
    dlo13

    dlo13 TinyRigCo.

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  2. Mar 12, 2018 at 10:48 PM
    #42
    TXTaco13

    TXTaco13 [OP] Taco/T4R Enthusiast

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    That thickness with all 3 is more suited for the back wall, and floor. On the doors, the 80 mil and ccf would be about it imo, without looking at that thread.
     
  3. Mar 13, 2018 at 6:26 AM
    #43
    DaMaDo

    DaMaDo Well-Known Member

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    Yep, that's what I'm planning. The only thing I'm confused about is the amount of the 80mil on the doors. Some people say the only important part is the outside panel of the doors (the panel behind the speakers) and barely put any on the interior (the panel the speaker actually mounts to), but instead just plug any holes with hard plastic or rubber and cover that interior panel with MLV. Many others cover that interior panel completely with 80mil instead.
     
  4. Mar 13, 2018 at 7:21 AM
    #44
    rob feature

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    100% damper coverage isn't necessary, but you wanna hit all the panels. And the door card where you can.

    You should have room for MLV in your doors. That's what blocks all the noise and is a huge factor in the doors. Using only foam and a damper you're still going to get most of the noise from the outside.
     
  5. Mar 13, 2018 at 8:04 AM
    #45
    DaMaDo

    DaMaDo Well-Known Member

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    I will have enough room for 80 mil on the door card with 1/8 MLV on top of that?
     
  6. Mar 13, 2018 at 8:08 AM
    #46
    TacoFlaco12

    TacoFlaco12 Well-Known Member

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    How much of this did you order to do your truck?
     
  7. Mar 13, 2018 at 8:10 AM
    #47
    jv_74

    jv_74 Well-Known Member

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  8. Mar 13, 2018 at 8:41 AM
    #48
    rob feature

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    You'll probably be able to put patches of damper on the card in places. I haven't been in 3rd gen doors, but I got 1/8" of MLV, 1/8" neoprene and damper on all surfaces of my 1st gen doors - which have to be tighter than yours. Some parts of the card are pretty tight and if they're up against CCF you don't really need it, but damper on bigger, less supported parts of the card can help.
     
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  9. Mar 13, 2018 at 8:48 AM
    #49
    DaMaDo

    DaMaDo Well-Known Member

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    Thank you, I went ahead and ordered the MLV and thinner foam since my OEM Audio+ order shipped. I'll try to get some pictures of my installation if I don't mess it up too much ;) Never done this before.
     
    TXTaco13[OP] likes this.
  10. Mar 13, 2018 at 1:58 PM
    #50
    TXTaco13

    TXTaco13 [OP] Taco/T4R Enthusiast

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    Let us know how it goes!
     
  11. Mar 14, 2018 at 2:46 PM
    #51
    pinktaco808

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  12. Mar 16, 2018 at 8:28 PM
    #52
    DaMaDo

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    Well I can probably win the award for worst deadening install ever :eek:

    There's a bunch of gaps where the foil split. Not sure if I need to cover those with more deadening or tape or leave it bare.
    20180314_164527.jpg

    Next step will be the 1/8" MLV/300mil foam combo. I'll use the factory carpet thing that was covering the area as a template to cut the combo. I'm assuming the combo is much better than the carpet thing so I'll probably just leave it off.
     
    TXTaco13[OP] likes this.
  13. Mar 16, 2018 at 9:19 PM
    #53
    rob feature

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    wow, that's a seriously thin constraining layer. What brand of damper is that?
     
  14. Mar 16, 2018 at 9:21 PM
    #54
    RedEmpire

    RedEmpire Well-Known Member

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    Doesn't matter if the foil splits, the butyl underneath is what controls the dampening; for the dampening you really only need ~25 percent coverage anyway so you are more than covered. Caulk with silicone around those vents while you are at it, the vents are loosely held in there and vibrate

    So yes, "The constraining layer matters," but like I said, you only really need 25 percent coverage anyway so the tears, wherever they are, really don't matter
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2018
  15. Mar 16, 2018 at 9:30 PM
    #55
    rob feature

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    The constraining layer definitely matters. But if it's thin foil it might not make that much difference anyway.
     
  16. Mar 16, 2018 at 9:51 PM
    #56
    rob feature

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    Constrained layer damping (CLD) is recognized as an effective means for damping out the resonant vibrations
    and noise radiations of thin-walled structures [1]. The vibratory energy is dissipated due to shear strains in the viscoealstic
    layer of CLD patch. When the base structure vibrates in bending, the stiff constraining layer will force
    the viscoelastic materials (VEMs) to deform in shear due to the differences between the displacements of the base
    structure and the constraining layer, resulting in conversion of structural vibration energy into heat. The CLD treatments
    provide considerably more damping effect than the unconstrained ones in spite of adding extra weight of the
    constraining layer
    .

    Source: Topology Optimization of Passive Constrained Layer Damping with Partial Coverage on Plate
     
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  17. Mar 16, 2018 at 10:09 PM
    #57
    TXTaco13

    TXTaco13 [OP] Taco/T4R Enthusiast

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    Are those two actuators for the rear window? I'm curious if unbolting them and putting material behind them would interfere, but I guess I'll decide when I get there. You might want to put some strips on the top and bottom if that cross bar. Remember it's a learning experience, have fun. You used the Noico 80 mil right?
     
  18. Mar 17, 2018 at 6:19 AM
    #58
    rob feature

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    Yes, as low as 25% strategically-placed coverage with a good damper seems to be a good rule. If the 'constrained layer' is foil however, we probably can't call that a good damper. An effective CLD needs a semi-rigid constrained layer. Foil is not rigid enough. A stiff layer will not tear like that.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2018
  19. Mar 17, 2018 at 6:32 AM
    #59
    rob feature

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    They're doing 20% off for St. Paddy's right now
     
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  20. Mar 17, 2018 at 7:27 AM
    #60
    Norsemanvike

    Norsemanvike Well-Known Member

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    You installed directory on top of all the wires and misc cabling? Did the panels go back on easily enough?
     
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