Pointers for replacing a clutch???

Hello everyone,
I recently posted a thread about my RPMs revving and getting no power when in gear (3.4l V6 manual) and I just wanted to make sure it was a clutch issue and not a transmission issue. Well, after the extreme help I received from the members here (thank you very much again), my assumptions as to a slipping clutch were correct, and I was wondering if there were any pointers or advice that anyone would be willing to share for a clutch swap. I will be doing the swap and I have never done one myself but I am confident I can get it done.

Now, getting started I ordered an Exedy pro clutch kit and a new Luk flywheel from Rockauto. I would like to replace the rear main seal while I have everything open (a tip I recieved on my last thread) but I cannot find a part number for it. I was also curious where I could find the torque specifications for things like the drive shaft bolts which I removed to pull the tranny back and for the actual friction plate and so on. Another question I had was if there was anything that was "torque to yield" so basically if there is any new hardware I should buy. I'm very excited to replace my first clutch and I appreciate any and all help and I'd like to thank you all for taking the time to read my post.

 

Go to Harbor Freight and buy a transmission jack, you can thank me later!

 

Two Jacks make the job so much easier .

One under the engine the other the transmission /transfer case in a front to back position

Get help if at all possible it can be done alone

6 point sockets are your friend

I think we all have out own tips and tricks to this job .

I always think I want to make a Custom cradle to set the gear boxes in on the jack but one seldom changes clutch`s all that often .

 

I've got a copy of the FSM for the clutch job, and can walk you through a lot of it if you'd like PM me, it's not a bad job if you know what you're doing or have someone who does coach you.

Worst part is the transfer case that weighs so damn much.

 

The transmission you have is an R150F

Buy oem, parts are more expensive but worth it. I would try to use oem for everything if possible, better than almost any other option

Only other option I’d consider is a Marlin Crawler if you abuse the clutch or wheel your truck
https://www.marlincrawler.com/clutch/heavy-duty/clutch-tacoma/1995-04-6cyl-1200-lb-clutch-kit

Shit luck they’re out of stock right now.

At the very least get an oem throw out bearing, aftermarket isn’t as good.

-Replace the rear crankshaft seal on the engine while you have the transmission out.

-Change out the pilot bearing in the back of the crankshaft.

-I would also change the front input shaft seal on the transmission while you have it out, and if you’re really feeling like being proficient do the input shaft seal on the transfer case.

You have to separate the transfer case from the transmission, which can be a bitch, but way easier with everything out on the ground.

Example of transmission front input shaft seal, this is from a R151, but very similar. You pull off the front plate and the seal is inside (red arrow)

Reseal with Toyota orange crankcase FIPG, same stuff for transfer case to transmission.

It’s really worth it to do the seals in my opinion, i know from prior experience- if you don’t and it leaks it could ruin your clutch, run the transmission dry and cook the bearings. Seals are cheap, so it’s cheap insurance on expensive parts.

Be sure to grease the inner lip of all seals, helps to make better seal and prevent seal from burning up on start up.

Be careful with seals, they have spring on the inside of the lip that can get damaged.

The one between the transmission and transfer case isn’t quite as necessary since it’s easier to pull the transfer case later if need be and leave the transmission in the truck.

Good luck.

 

Yeah that bout covers the lot of it.

I used Marlins 1200lb kit when I did mine, was worth it for me, no pedal change, if anything it felt lighter but that was probably due to all the new parts.

If you can't resurface your flywheel get new OEM it's a fat chunk but well well worth it.

Make sure you clean all the shipping oil off the flywheel with alcohol.

While you are in there, grease your clutch for pivot ball, and since you are going to have to pull your sticks, grease their linkages, replace your probably deteriorated ball seats with marlin's UHMW seats, replace the transmission shifter end ball bushing. And you may consider replacing your clutch fork boot.

I did all the steps from the post above and those I listed.

 

I did my first gen clutch at 300000 miles because the clutch release lever snapped from a piece of wood that jump up and broke it It wasn’t a bad job but I would put a motor jack above the motor for support next time

 

I found that using wet toilet paper helps get the pilot bearing out. Yeah, that's right, wet toilet paper. If you stuff wet TP into the hole in the center of the pilot bearing and tap the TP in, and keep adding TP and tapping, it will give a hydraulic effect and essentially press the bearing out of the crank.
X2 for the jacks, having something support the engine and/or trans makes a huge difference.

 

Honestly For me I always did stuff the old fashion way and it was always faster. A tip I would also give is to go to harbor freight and buy yourself a blind hole bearing puller (like 50 bucks) and keep it for future jobs. Input shaft bearing is one of those where it can be very easy to take out with some old tricks but if not then you will need the tool. Just get the tool save yourself the trouble.

The way I always took my Trans out by myself was just to obviously disconnect everything including driveshafts.

I just unbolted the Xfer case first and dropped it on my chest
Then tilted the trans down and unbolted the trans.
Using a jack to support/roll with the trans just pushed the trans away from the block (if never taken out may need a little help with a prybar)
Then just lower the jack and slide it out from under the truck. Easy.

Getting it back up was reverse. Slid the trans under the truck and on to the jack. Jacked it up and used my hands on the bellhousing and the jack to raise and roll the trans to mate with the block.

Takes me about 30 min tops to get it out and maybe an hour to get it back in and bolt everything back up.

Note: I have never used a trans jack. It all depends on skill level/strength I suppose. I just use a regular aluminum low pro jack and I can balance the trans on it all day. Trans jacks are helpful for safety/keeping the trans from moving around, but I personally do not like them as they give me limited maneuverability as I like to do things free hand.

 

X 1000 on the trans jack. I had about 155K on my 98 when I did the clutch. I had to use a come-a-long to strategically separate the trans and xfer case from the bell housing. Holy Tit it was seized on there. Make sure to do it in such a place that you can sware. A LOT

 

I plan to use Marlin’s kit next time, I was on the fence last time and went oem but used Marlin’s shifter seat and bushing. I have heard oem does have a stiffer pedal, Id def like to improve that for the shit traffic we have here. I’m getting close to needing to do mine, but the one that’s been in there for 170,000 miles just keeps going

I plan to replace all of this on the next clutch, all stuff Marlin sells

-stainless braided clutch line
-clutch fork boot
-flywheel
-pressure plate bolt set
-slave cylinder
-master cylinder
-shift lever ball seat
-shift lever socket bushing

Everything Marlin sells is beefy, no issues trusting what they sell.

 

All sound advice. I would fallow all of it. Here is my 2 cents.

One question you asked I haven't seen answered, what is torqued to yield.... The Flywheel Bolts. You here everyone say OEM.... yeah, we aren't joking, OEM for sure.

You can most likely save the coin and get your flywheel resurfaced. It was $34 for me to get mine done.

I have done 3 or 4 clutches without a transmission jack... yes, you can do it, but for the love of all that is oily, why would you? Start searching CL for a used one, and then you can sell it after this. You didn't mention were you live, there might be a TW member near you that is willing to loan you one. It makes the job so much easier.

I wish I had done all those seals when I did my clutch 8 months ago, because now I need to. Yeah me.

 

I just picked up a NAPA flywheel. Marlin Clutch kit. Been going fantastic for the lat 15k. Clutch feels slightly different in daily driving than the stock one. I noticed it more when I off-road. You can feather the Marlin a little better and have noticed no burning smell.

 

No need for blind hole removal tool for the pilot bearing. Just fill the cavity behind it full of grease, then select an appropriate sized metal rod (or plastic alignment tool would work) and give er a whack. It will drive the bearing out easy as pie.

 

I like the puller far to often did I get a bearing that is about to fail that the hydraulic method just will not work.

In which case your rounding up a puller .

Over the years so many jobs put on hold from not having one simple tool

 

Funny. I don't remember what I was working on, but I was in my garage under my truck and things weren't going well. I was cussin' up a storm. Loudly. Then I noticed a girl walking her dog past. She was right at the end of the driveway. I said, "I'm sorry you had to hear that". She said, "It's ok. My dad's a mechanic. I hear that all the time."