Premium Audio Upgrade for less than $250

1. The connectors on the Subaru tweeters are different than the connectors used on the JBL tweeters. Technically you could make it work, but you'd have to do some cutting which defeats the main benefit of going with those Subaru tweets.
2. I haven't seen anyone with a 3rd gen mention any speakers used by Parts Express in this forum, but I have seen them used in DIYMA forums with success. It'd be worth trying as long as you have the power to push those.
3. I did some initial searching, but not too many people have the JBL system...and even fewer have actually tried to upgrade it. You might have to pry it open and measure how big it is before we can help you with this (which I think would be fun to do!).

 

"It doesn't matter if you can't afford it cause you can finance it!" & "You can be buried in it!"

 

The Wall, Darkside of the Moon, or Wish You Were Here?

 

So far I have made it through The Wall and most of Dark Side of the Moon. Sounds awesome! My last 2012 Tacoma was the first one I did not do an audio upgrade to, left it completely stock. I liked the head unit and features (it was not Entune), and it didn't sound terrible, so I just left it. Before the speaker change, I think this truck actually sounded worse, not sure why. But now it sounds much better, kind of wish I had changed speakers out in the last truck!

My 2009 had the wacky radio that would go crazy. It would randomly change stations, turn off and on, and the display would switch to Predator text. As I was pulling into the dealer to have it replaced, it spontaneously spit out the CD that was in it. That was a funny moment (and good, because I forgot there was a CD in it). New one lasted about 3 weeks before it started wacking out, so it was on to Crutchfield and budget system building.

LOL, yeah, I saw the magnets and wattage on those Lanzars and that scene popped into mind immediately . . .

 

Sweet. My last was an 08 Sport. Radio was flaky too. Sometimes the whole center console would lose power. Clock would shut off, cigarette lighter, etc. never found the short.

 

I just completed this.

Here's what you need to be aware of:

• When mounting the front 6x9 speaker into the housing, I had to drill into the plastic Metra mounts using a pilot hole (nothing lined up and there were no precut holes)
• Sound deadening is best applied to the INSIDE of the door sheet metal for effectiveness (unlike many people in the thread are doing), however this takes ALOT of extra time to do properly, especially if OCD like me
• buy some extra white door clips, I broke one and mysteriously lost 2

I LOCKED MYSELF OUT:

• take great care to not shut the doors until you've ensured door handle and lock functionality on both sides of door
• The most IMPORTANT thing to ensure you've assembled correctly is the green and white door cables. The plastic, press fit green and white cable housings POP OUT of their channel if you're not careful while re-attaching door panels. PAY CLOSE ATTENTION
• I was able to get myself out of it by gently extending the inside door handle past it's intended range of motion to allow enough cable travel to open door

My opinion on this "Mod"

• biggest improvement is the sound deadening! I used 80mil and 50 mil Noico sheets
• The Kicker speakers are honestly a marginal improvement over the OEM premium entune (non JBL) speakers, while driven by OEM headunit, but they are nicer sounding, particularly highs and mids w/ Subaru tweeters. Slight bass increase/response, but it's there
• This took along time, mainly due to applying sound deadening properly, but will pay off in dividends during my ownership of the truck. Loving my cocoon cockpit now.

 

Completed the OP’s simple, cheap, and awesome stereo upgrade. I added some CLD sound deadening tiles and I’m completely happy with the sound quality. I do not need an amp, the volume gets high enough for me without the muddiness of the stock speakers. I agree with the comments about giving the speakers a week to break-in. When I first installed the speakers the bass seemed a little flat, but after a week the speakers came alive.

 

I noticed a break in period also. I've been strapped for time do get this completed. I have both tweeters installed, but only the speakers on the passenger side in. So I was having fun shifting the balance back and forth to hear the difference. At first, the kickers didn't have much low end, but now after using them for a bit, they have more. The factory stuff sounds so muddy.

 

Since your in a unique situation to have both after break in, which side has more bass? Do you think the upgrade is worth it? Do you think the rear door upgrade is worth the time and effort?

 

I think the factory speakers have a tad more bass at the same settings on the deck. But I think 1-2 notches on the bass setting would compensate for that, and have the clearer sound. So worth it? Yes.

Rear doors, ya I'd say it's probably worth it. I didn't fade the sound backward and forward when I was goofin around, but I could try that when I get a moment. But if you're doing sound deadening at the same time, that was worth the time. I had maybe 60 minutes into the one door with Noico dynamat knockoff and the speaker swap. Getting rid of some of the cheap clank sound when shutting the rear door was worth it to me lol.

 

I am heading to the doctor later this week as I am infected with the BUG.

I don’t expect to have the hideaway installed until the end of the week at best but more likely a couple of weeks away when it warms up again. Once I complete the install and have some time to experience the new sound I will come back and give a review on the whole budget system vs the budget plus hideaway. I am expecting to be able to turn the bass down on the whole system and leave that to the hideaway. It should give an even better sound but I will wait until the install and testing is completed so I can give a real review.

 

FYI for all, Ebay has another sitewide coupon today. Just ordered the subie tweeters for ~$80.

 

sooo i cruised back a little to find some info but with no luck, what should i do if i have an SR with a non en-tune unit... I just ordered tweeters at the minimum, but if i wanted to do doors what are my options, maybe with an amp and or without. i dont need a sub at all, just front door speakers and the access cab back speakers.

 

I’ve got the tweeters and rear speakers in so far in my Access Cab. Only had enough Dynamat on hand for the rear doors, so the fronts are waiting till Thursday when the Noico deadener arrives.

As a design engineer by trade, I just can’t leave good enough alone. I’m guessing I’ll miss the subs I’ve had in my last two cars, so I think I’ll be designing a custom mounting bracket for Access Cabs to mount a Kicker Hideaway on the Rear Panel between the rear seat backs. This would utilize the LATCH mounts and some other upper mount, and probably be made of 12GA steel. We will see how that pans out. I’ve got connections with fab shops, so maybe if others wanted one, I could get a few made.

 

Since a few of us are going a step beyond the “basic” $250 upgrade and adding the hideaway or similar powered subs are we still considering this part of this budget build? I don’t want to trample all over this thread IF this is considered to be above the scope of the thread. Powered subs keep coming up again and again as a final tweak to the budget build so do we keep that information here or start our own thread on the Hideaway?

Edit:
I created a specific hideaway thread to go alongside this thread. Hopefully we can get some feedback and suggestions with this upgrade to the upgrade.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-to-the-250-3rd-gen-premium-i-upgrade.541375/

 

Non entune I would do an amp as well. You really do not need the access cab back speakers. Do front component speakers (the kicker tweeter on this page is actually very expensive, you can get JL components for $130) and 2 channel amplifier and you will be right around the 250 price, maybe up to 300 depending on how much your amp wiring harness and power lines run you, if you already have soldering gun, etc. It will blow the setup on this page out of the water. I would personally spend more and get the soundstream 640d mentioned here since it is so cheap. It is a 5 channel and leaves plenty of room to upgrade and fits almost everywhere.

 

please tell me i didnt just waste my money buying the kicker drop in subie tweeters? i can only assume even with just my base SR and non entune it has to sound better than the stock tweeters??

 

You are probably fine with just the tweeters. If you start replacing door speakers, you will likely find it underpowered and need to do an amp.

 

Well I'm in on this one too. Just ordered everything from Crutchfield and Amazon!!

 

No it definitely sounds better. I just meant from an overall cost perspective, just doing components would be cheaper and better overall if you are doing doors as well. A third option is just buying a midbass driver for the door since you bought the tweeter already, that would be the best route to take. Just don't get the coaxials everyone gets on here, you do not need four tweeters up front, sure it sounds fine, but for the same cost you can have better. As mentioned previously, you do need an amp if you switch out the doors or you need sensitive mid drivers that can work with the low input the stock head unit is pushing them.