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What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by SlimDigg, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. Mar 30, 2018 at 11:38 AM
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    yeah I think you'd be fine with just one.

    I have a lot of info on the CS144 in Franks build thread. PN in there too for the CS144 with the smaller pulley which puts out more amps at idle then the OEM alt ever did haha
     
  2. Mar 30, 2018 at 11:39 AM
    turbodb

    turbodb AdventureTaco

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    "I'm not touching that. You're setting up the tent tonight Monte!" :devil:

    [​IMG]
    I run a fridge on my single Toyota Truestart and haven't had a problem so far. I did/do worry about it a bit, but I bought a DBPOWER 600A 18000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter to have a backup/jump capability in case the battery dies (at which point, I'd turn the fridge off when the truck wasn't on). I probably would go for a second battery at some point, except that my engine bay is completely full, and I (for now) don't want to put it in the bed.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2018
    The Jester, tymeson, jubei and 2 others like this.
  3. Mar 30, 2018 at 11:51 AM
    SilverGhost

    SilverGhost Well-Known Member

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    #junkyardparts
    Cool I’ll look into it for sure thanks again bud!

    Thanks for the info. :cheers:
     
  4. Mar 30, 2018 at 12:08 PM
    turbodb

    turbodb AdventureTaco

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    Finally got around to removal of the shot bearing and installation of a new 6301-2NSE in my AC Idler after the trip last September. Wonder how long the replacement will last before I put this puppy back in...

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Mar 30, 2018 at 12:09 PM
    tony2018

    tony2018 Well-Known Member

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    I didn't know those were replacable, I just replace the whole thing.
     
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  6. Mar 30, 2018 at 12:12 PM
    turbodb

    turbodb AdventureTaco

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    Yah, I replaced the whole thing when mine went out, and then @Digiratus gave me the idea to keep the pulley and just replace the bearing. Was super simple - don't know why it took me so long. And a new bearing is $10 instead of $30 (aftermarket) for the whole deal.
     
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  7. Mar 30, 2018 at 12:24 PM
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    worth it to have both. Always have a trail spare that way.
     
  8. Mar 30, 2018 at 12:24 PM
    US Marine

    US Marine Semper Fi

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    TRD supercharger , Doug Thorley header , K&N CAI 265/75-16 Toyo open country mud terrain , 15x8 Method Racing wheels , Rancho 3" lift , 4.88 gears , Detroit Locker
    This was last week but installed a set of CoverKing Ballistic Tactical Tan seat covers with MOLLE webbing and tan MOLLE pouches

    0320181554a.jpg 0320181554.jpg
     
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  9. Mar 30, 2018 at 12:28 PM
    Gyrkin

    Gyrkin Well-Known Member

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    So what would you do in my case. I have the original CVs (180,xxx miles) and the boots are torn. Don't know how long they have been torn, maybe a while. They still function fine, no symptoms that they are going out. I'm in 4wd off road almost daily through the fall and winter, and once or twice a week spring and summer. Should I re-boot the ones I have? Leave it alone until these start dying, and replace them? If so OEM or aftermarket? Or replace them now?
     
  10. Mar 30, 2018 at 12:32 PM
    eon_blue

    eon_blue If I would, could you

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    If possible I'd go with OEM new ones, reboot the old one(s) and keep it as a spare.

    If not wanting to spend too much on OEM CVs, Napa carries a solid aftermarket brand with a lifetime warranty. I don't think they're supposed to be as good as OEM but better than the AutoZone ones.

    Also SDHQ sells high angle CV boots, if you just want to reboot your current ones those are a good option to keep the boots from tearing (assuming they're tearing because you're lifted and the angles are severe).
     
  11. Mar 30, 2018 at 12:38 PM
    Coltaco38

    Coltaco38 Well-Known Member

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    I finally got around to replacing the cup holder retainers. I used 1/8” rubber from the plumbing section at Lowe’s.
    5A89743D-2E32-44FA-BFB3-C566E4702E95.jpg
    623505DD-43A7-43E0-A39C-6508FE0E4033.jpg
    I like the color, looks kind of like leather.
     
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  12. Mar 30, 2018 at 12:44 PM
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    For sure. The etc. would be running a computer for photo editing and camping lights at night. I wanted to familiarize myself with solar charging and make a system so I figured the second battery would be good for that. Still thinking about it. It's probably a two year project at this point with all the other stuff I'm doing to the truck rn.
     
  13. Mar 30, 2018 at 1:16 PM
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    2002 XtraCab TRD 4x4 SCv6 AutoTrans With Lots of Mods ADS COs w/Compression Adjusters Camburg Uniball UCAs Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushings Kartek 7" Limit Straps Plastics Guy Front Bumpstops Total Chaos Sprindle Gussets Custom Alcan Springs +800 lbs +3" ADS 10" Stroke Triple Bypass w/Resi Rear Shocks Custom Rear Shock Relocate All-Pro U-bolt Flip w/Timbren Bumpstops 4.88 Nitro Gears ARB Front Locker ARB Twin Compressor Black 17x8 Konig Countersteer Type X 285/70r17 Falken A/T3w Gunmetal 16x8 SCS Ray10s 255/85r16 Maxxis Bighorns Limited Edition (Relentless) Elite Front Bumper Smittybilt X2O 10K Winch Diode Dynamics SS3 Sport Selective Yellow Fog Lights in the Bumper Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro 4,000 Kelvin SAE Driving Lights with Clear Lenses on the Bumper Morimoto D2S Projectors XB35 Ballasts + 4300K Bulbs Badland Sliders FrankenFab Tire Carrier Swingout bumper w/kitchen BudBuilt Front & Bellypan Skids BAMF Rear Diff Skid Dometic CFX 55im Fridge/Freezer Alpha II Hardshell RTT Badland Custom Bed Rack Denso 210-0461 105 amp alternator Dual Northstar 24F AGM batteries BlueSea 7622 ML-ACR Battery controller Peak DBI Dual Battery Voltage Monitor Haltech IC-7 Display with Mako Dash Insert Haltech Elite 2500 Standalone ECU Magnuson MP62 Supercharger w/URD 2.2" Pulley Doug Thorley Headers Denso 650cc Fuel Injectors Aeromotive Stealth 340 Fuel Pump TransGo A340F Reprogramming Shift Kit OEM ECU Delete Full A340F Trans Control with the Haltech 2500 ECU 2.5" Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT Magnaflow 18" Muffler w/Vibrant Resonator 13WL Brake Calipers with OEM Rotors & Pads Braided Steel Brake Lines Kenwood TM-71A Dual Band Ham Radio STI-CO Flex Whip VFH/UHF 1/4 Wave Antenna Midland MTX275 GMRS Radio w/Roof Mount Antenna Pioneer DEH-P9400BH HU Alpine Amps & Type R components (F) and coaxials (R) Wet Okole Seat Covers Weathertech Digital Liners Deck Plate Mod 1" Diff Drop Carrier Bearing Drop
    One of the things I like about my setup is the isolator I have. It will allow me to link the two batteries together with the push of a button in the cab. It's main selling point is self recovery if the starter battery fails or is otherwise drained/dead. A self jump is definitely piece of mind.

    And linking the batteries is also possible during a heavy winching session, again a situation where the starting battery could be drained. These two examples can be useful for the weekend warrior.

    For those of us who like to run a fridge overnight or run camp light and/or the stereo for extended periods in camp or use an inverter to recharge camera/phone/toothbrush/powertool batteries, the 2nd battery can be isolated from the starting battery so there is no fear of not being able to start the truck in the morning.
     
  14. Mar 30, 2018 at 1:18 PM
    turbodb

    turbodb AdventureTaco

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    Solar is cool conceptually but not very pragmatic for me, I think. The problem with solar is that the time you really need extra power is in camp at night, when the engine is off. Or, if you are stationary during the day, which we rarely are. If you're moving, you can use the (probably stock and for sure aftermarket) alternator on the truck to charge both batteries much more rapidly than any solar system.

    That's a whole different thing than a second battery though, which could be good for a fridge or other high-powered devices at night regardless of a solar system.
     
  15. Mar 30, 2018 at 1:22 PM
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Im going to add 200w to the roof of Igor. Stick on solar custom built. Well..okay I've at least speced it out and its not cheap...but I wouldn't need a 2nd battery at that point. And mostly it would cover the awful peeling paint but also would keep the battery topped off all the time.

    Not as simple with an extended cab granted.

    Idk if you saw what my Dad did but he added a fancy ass deep cycle controller/charger and did power poles on the outside of the truck to plug in his solar panels. He is think more along the lines of setting up base camp though for HAM operations during events.
     
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  16. Mar 30, 2018 at 1:28 PM
    LukeCC

    LukeCC Well-Known Member

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    I need to do this. Bad. :anonymous:
     
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  17. Mar 30, 2018 at 1:36 PM
    Keep on Truckin'

    Keep on Truckin' Well-Known Member

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    Yes , but there will be a gap at the top roof line .
     
  18. Mar 30, 2018 at 1:41 PM
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Right - most of what I use my trucks for is camping in remote (in varying degrees) areas so I've had the truck sit for three days while I hike to different nearby peaks before. I have a 250 amp alternator. Maybe part of it is just wanting to play around with a new-to-me technology. Being able to charge a battery with solar power seemed like fun though. lol
     
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  19. Mar 30, 2018 at 1:45 PM
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    It's less Tacoma and more mod
    Our alternators can do that just fine as is for two batteries though, that's what makes the solar kinda pointless unless you're setting up base camp for a couple days. Even the wimpy stock alt can charge two batts with us wheeling most of the day.
     
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  20. Mar 30, 2018 at 1:55 PM
    Gyrkin

    Gyrkin Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like a good plan, but the originals have lasted 18 years of pretty hard use. If new ones last the same it would seem kind of pointless to keep spares around. But then again I have been running on stock suspension until recently. Now have OME2881 so of course that changes things.

    What are the odds of the current ones being in good enough shape to be worth re-booting? Is it something that would be obvious when I take them off?
     

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