Sheared CV while stuck in snow, covered by warranty?

Thanks for all the advice. At this point it seems like we are all on the same page, as I have shared all the information that I have (though some of you do not agree with my choices/conclusions). I wish I had pics too. I would love to take a look at the small piece I had under the microscope at work, but that will all have to wait. As far as the impact, I definitely did not see anything in the vicinity that could have done that. It doesn't mean it didn't happen, but I need to see what they saw and how they came to that conclusion to be satisfied.

I'll keep you all updated, especially since it helps me vent my frustrations haha.

Called again today and tried to be super nice. They are getting it onto the lift tomorrow so they can fully go through and see what happened. She also mentioned that they had to make sure the "chain didn't stretch" but she wasn't even sure what she was talking about.

 

I got pictures. They are still saying that this can't be covered because of these scratches.

 

That's the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard! It's the underside of a 4 wheel drive truck! Hell I've scraped the bottom of my wife's Kia Soul worse than that pulling out of some driveways.

 

WTF? That’s a load of shit.

 

they are saying this equates to proof that it is user error, idk I am on the phone with corporate now.

 

Those scratches look a little old to me......

 

I've always wondered how Toyota could get away with putting "TRD OFF ROAD" on it's trucks and then deny warranty claims for damage that occurs offroad...makes no sense to me. It even says in the manual of my 04 that is designed to perform off-road. I can understand though if they say the damage occurred due to improper engagement of 4wd. But for 'scratches'? Definitely get corporate involved because it sounds like this dealership is trying to pull one over on you.

 

Those rusty scratches should be large gouges to break a big part like that. Me thinks that particular part was defective to begin with.

 

Corporate has 'escalated my claim' I will hear from them on Monday at which point I can send them any pictures and state my side of the story ect. I don't know what my chances of success are here, but the dealer also quoted me $470 for the wheel bearing assembly, $640 for an aftermarket CV, $866 for an OEM CV and at least 9 hours of labor. At this point I am towing the truck the fuck out of there if I can't get the warranty claim.

Any tips for talking to the claim manager?

 

Wow man thanks for the pictures and thanks for the update that totally looks like it should be covered under warranty. I hate to say but I think you just got unlucky with some jerky service department. No lift no big tires or wheels no visible off-road beatings. That’s pretty scary that they could try and deny that.
OK having said all that don’t give up ! state your case , I still think you could pull this off as a win make sure that you emphasize the fact that truck is bone stock no modifications! And no visible signs of abuse no mud it looks like a brand new truck.

 

There are ways to identify how the axle sheared. I knew some basics many, many years ago. Some of the better engineers on this forum might be able to help?

In general, a fatigue / repeat loading failure would develop and fail looking very different than a single point failure. If I am thinking correctly, that large fracture by the mech's thumb looks odd, possibly fatigue. But, someone who knows better should pipe in.

@BigWhiteTRD and @hiPSI You guys have anything on that fracture?

This is your chance to tell corporate how those rust scrapes got there. Where you wheeling some place else or have you run through salted, grimy slush on days / weeks / months prior to the snap?

BTW regarding the rusty bits, both really aren't structural bits. The tube is more of anti-theft device for the cats, and the skid is tin foil. The fact that it ain't bent at all says a lot.

For those prices, you could get this full, mouthwatering setup for both sides:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/free-wheel-hub-conversion-3rd-gen.513930/

 

I bet that there is more to this story than the OP is letting on.

 

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=+665235HD

EDIT:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...tive&field-keywords=WHEEL+BEARING+TACOMA+2017

 

I actually have a metallurgy background as well and work with people much smarter than me so I hope to get their opinions on monday. To me the deeper wells in the fracture surface look like shear cracks which served as initiation sites for the failure. I don't see any striations or anything indicative of fatigue. The part clearly exceeded its torsional load capacity. Now I can't determine if that is because I was a dumby and did something that would make any CV do that or if it was a faulty part from these pictures, but certainly nothing there leads me to believe it has anything to do with those scratches. Also they say the heat shield is bent, which I was assuming is the 'seam' running from the bolt back in the picture.

At first I was told to delete my post for being too honest now I am being told I'm lying haha. I respect you skepticism, but I am trying to be as honest as possible so I can just get my truck back as soon as possible. I don't want to waste my time escalating all these claims for something you guys think clearly should not be covered. Again the truck is apparently not rolling still. I have no idea why and they haven't told me why either. So maybe that is where the 9 hours of labor is coming from, but certainly not those part prices. Maybe there is a out of state douchebag tax being applied

 

I will look closer at home.
First observation is for how flatish (generally perpendicular to shaft axis not 45deg) that would have to be a very ductile soft steel. I don't think it could be 4xxx series steel. So they make those things out of 1xxx mild steel? Or did they fail to heat treat.

As you said, at first glance I don't see any fatigue lands. Bet single overload event, but I have to wonder about alloy, but maybe it's normal to make them of gumbo.

[Edit
OP, I know you mentioned couldn't move truck out of bay or something, is diff or transfer screw?
Wonder if that is intended as a fuse?
/Edit]

 

Your first pic is the aft corner of the flimsy skid plate. Definitely not a heat shield. Just good enough to protect from light road debris, once. The bare metal in the second pic is the exhaust crossover pipe. It has a light scratch on it but is ovaled when new. Folks will relocate that because it is in a stupid spot.

It is good that you have some resources. After some googling, I am not seeing the fatigue features. Sorry about the speculation, but I did caveat it! Haha!

Good eyes! I thought you might have a take on this.

 

Can you see the direction of rotation in the break...? IE: was the wheel going forward or reverse when it sheared..??

If it sheared in reverse, wouldn't a normal person assume that it happened at a slow speed while backing out of the snow..??

I don't know if that means anything or not..... Those rusty scrapes were not involved.....My opinion.

 

That's part of the drivetrain so I don't see how it wouldn't be covered under the standard drivetrain warranty. 9 hours of labor sounds way off. You might want to have it towed to the next closest dealer, it should be covered without a thought.

 

I honestly have no idea what is going on with the rear diff. It was pulled out of the snow in reverse fine, then they had trouble getting it off the truck in drive and neutral. Now the dealer is telling me "it doesn't move" i don't know to what extent or anything beyond that.

No need for the apology I appreciate any input at this point. This forum has been more responsive and helpful than any other forum I have been a part of in the past! I hope that I can more positively contribute in the future.

IIRC I was in drive, and looking at the pictures the direction of the lips supports that, but I have had a beer at this point and am not too confident on my visualization of the motion. As far as towing it to another dealer. I am gonna let Toyota corporate make their decision and if they deny the claim I'll get quotes in the area and tow it there or down to my house and fix it in the street.