Amsoil for engine oil

Amsoil is really good but it's expensive, I personally run Castrol and love it. I've never been a fan of Mobil 1 due to some testing I've seen. YMMV

 

This guy was an engineer and knew a lot about modern oils, always hypothesized that it would make it that far but knew nobody would believe him so he did it himself. Said he seen the vehicle years later at well over 200k and it ran well and had 0 issues other than standard maintenance items

 

AMSOIL for me! (Just stick to the correct weight)

 

That’s funny reminds me of my brother’s old Dodge truck. He never changed the oil because it leaked so much and he had to always top it off.

He would pull into the full service stations and say, “fill it up, and check the gas, too.”

 

Mobil 1
Goes on sale at Costco every so often and so it’s cheeeeeeap!
I Love COSTCO!

 

http://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/blends-conventional-oils/gold.html

 

Plus $12 rebates thru Mobil making it a great deal.

 

If Mobil 1 is good enough as factory fill on Corvettes, Porsches, and Mercedes, it’s good enough for Tacomas. JMO.

 

Well not quite. Oil sitting in a bottle on the shelf has not been exposed to the conditions of a running engine. Once you run the engine (and keep in mind there are still the dregs of the old oil sitting in the sump because you simply can't drain it bone dry) you stir in a lot of extra contaminants that start a degradation process that is self-sustaining and increases with time, breaking down additives and increasing overall acidity which breaks down even more additives (and further increases acidity). Let that process sit in an oil pan, and it's gonna start degrading.

Does it matter to the point of changing every year? Probably not, but it does matter.

My guess is that with modern oils, 1 year is indeed a gross over-estimation of the speed of the process. I'd wager something like 2-3 or more years, so for all intents and purposes changing for miles not years is perfectly acceptable for all but the most neglected of autos.

That said, overdoing your OCI can't hurt an engine.

 

Dealer OW20. Just had mine done for 42.00.

G.

 

I've been using AmsOil for 20 years now. As it was said before, use mineral sourced oil for the break in & then I use spec 5w-30 AmsOil XL (12k max mileage) for my 5VZ-FE. At $9.15 a qt., it's actually $1 less than Castrol high mileage. I put one of those Fumoto Engine Oil Valves in the pan & it has made for the fastest, cleanest oil changes ever. Get the engine up to operating temp (195F), then drain completely & not get burned. I also run E-85 so there's no carbon in the oil, since EOTH burns completely without soot. Just over 1/4 of a million miles & still going strong. I had my emissions tested last week & found out that my emissions actually went down considerably compared to the test I had done 2 yrs ago before the TRD/Magnuson supercharger install.

 

High Temperature High Shear (HTHS)
measures the thickness of motor oil.

HTHS. 0W20

TGMO 2.60 immediately shears to ~2.45.
AMSOIL 2.67.
M1 2.7
RedLine 2.9.

Also consider motor oil design.

I do not like TGMO because
of the usage of high dosage viscosity index improvers.
I say this contributes to oil consumption.

My choice is Pennzoil Gold Synthetic Blend 0W20
with OCI of 7.5k miles and FCI of 15K miles.
$4/qt at Walmart.

BTW As a delivery driver subcontractor,
I have used a variety of very thin motor oils,
for hundreds of thousands of miles,
going back 6 years,
and my comments are as,
merely a consumer,
but one with lots of experience.

Sustina 0W20.
TGMO 0W20.
MGMO 0W20.
Ravenol 0W16.
Citgo 0W16.

 

I'll add my personal experience with Amsoil engine oil.

I used Amsoil in my 2001 Dodge Cummins from day one (purchased the truck brand new). I sold the truck in 2015 to a guy who is a professional diesel mechanic. He took the head off to some work to it, and he showed me you could still see the original factory hone marks in the cylinder walls. Engine had 150K miles on it, I towed a good bit with the truck, so the engine was well used and worked fairly hard at times. That convinced me of the quality of Amsoil products, and I intend to continue using their products in my Taco.

I'm not a brand fanatic, nor am I an Amsoil distributor, just a very satisfied customer. I also used Blackstone oil analysis in every oil change with the Cummins, and at 10K mile oil & filter changes, the Cummins oil reports were always excellent. I have no experience with any other oil/filters, so I am not able to make any comparisons.

I'm very happy with Amsoil, but I won't make any claims that there may not be superior products out there.

 

Stick to synthetic on sale get an occasional oil analysis. I'm going 12,500 between oil changes now.

http://www.google.com/amp/s/jalopnik.com/why-expensive-oil-is-a-waste-of-money-1797241527/amp

 

I'm a Gastrol guy. Owned 4 Tacoma's and will only put Gastrol in my Taco's.

 

I always kept a spare can of Castrol 20/50 oil in my old 1966 model year coupe while daily driving it from 1978 to 1986.

I removed this can from the trunk wheel well when I sold the car in 2002 and have kept it in the garage or house since then, either stored up in a cabinet or displayed on a shelf.

This oil could perhaps be close to 40 years old this year.

Usually it’s Mobil1 for me these days.

 

I am root

 

I went with Idemitsu Full Synthetic 0-W20. 5 quart jug is 23.00 free prime shipping. I got 6 jugs so I guess I'll be running it for 5 rounds. Reportedly, Idemitsu oil is what comes in factory Subaru, Mazda and Toyota oil jugs, but it's much cheaper in bulk.

 

How do you get that rebate??