Any woodworkers?

Hey guys,

Does anyone have any experience with the dust right wall mount dust collector from rockler.com?

http://www.rockler.com/dust-right-wall-mount-dust-collector-with-free-50-gift-card

I've been using a shop vac with a dust deputy and it's only rated to 60 something cfm. The dust right is over 600 cfm and for a small shop of homeowner/contractor grade tools I'm hoping that's a big improvement. I usually take my miter saw, table saw, and planer out to the driveway to use them because of how much saw dust isn't captured. I'd like to be able to keep them in the basement and not have a dust storm every time I use them.

 

Ah, don’t get that. Go to harbor freight and buy the 2hp one. Tons of people use them, including me, they rock and are fairly cheap.

 

Here you go. This is actually where I got the idea.
https://youtu.be/l2EgxiMTvI0

 

Ok, I’m confused. Are you saying use the bolt system like he did or use a joint like he did where the stretcher sets into the leg like a puzzle?

 

i was just suggesting the design. the actual method of your joinery would be up to you.

 

...i may not be interpreting this right, so bear with me.. from what i'm seeing there, i'd be concerned your aprons (what you're calling stretchers) appear to be too narrow (width dimension)...

oftentimes w/ tables, the legs and aprons are joined via mortise/tenons... and this, traditionally, involves doing "haunched" tenons... to have sufficient tenon width (including haunch), ..the aprons too will need sufficient dimension (width)... judging from the photo, i'd try to make aprons that are wider (at least where the joinery takes place), ...if you want to keep the look "light" you could fashion the aprons to have a graceful arc which is narrowest at the center point and widest where it meets the legs...

 

Anything against the rockler one? Or just suggesting a higher cfm option for the same price?

I do anything I can to avoid harbor freight, so it would be painful for me to buy theirs just for more cfm. If you think the 600 something cfm of the rockler just isn’t enough, and I should buy one that has over 1,000 cfm, I’d probably look at jet or some other manufacturers.

One thing about the rockler dust right that I find attractive is how portable it is. If I find that using it in the basement is still too dusty, I can hang it in the garage and use it with my tools in the driveway. Essentially a wall mounted shop vac 10x stronger than my current shop vac.

I’d most likely be adding a particle separator too.

 

Ah, got ya. Thanks.

Well, I wanted to keep the apron thin and place it in the middle of the leg using dowels. As I like the thin minimalist look with a little bit chunkier leg. Though, I see what you are saying and may need to use something wider than 4/4 to accommodate the 8/4 legs.

Look into the Harbor Freight models and the mods that people do with them. It's honestly a gem of a machine and actual quality. Let's be real, a lot of the stuff comes from the same factory as well just with a different brand. Look on youtube to see what I mean. Lots of people add cyclones to them and such.

 

...the thickness (4/4 ?) is fine, ...my use of "width" may have been misleading, ..i'm talking about the vertical dimension of the apron (height ?)... a mortise/tenon joint would generally require more in this dimension to resist the moment-of-force and twisting forces exerted on long legs, as such, especially in that type of design where there is no reinforcement from a shelf below... for your design, i might suggest looking into some kind of purpose-made mechanical brackets similar to this: http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=41853&cat=3,43586,43590&ap=1

...if you keep the aprons, then i'd assume you'd mount the top to them, ..which would require accommodation for the cross-grain seasonal wood movement, as you've got a solid wood top 30" wide...

 

Sorry, 4/4 is lumber terms. Aka a hair under 1". 8/4, is a hair under 2". Ah, I see what you are saying now! Sorry for the confusion. Always the hard part of talking design online. I'll look into those brackets.

 

Sometimes reclaimed wood isn't all it's cracked up to be

I'll see myself out.

 

Just yesterday I installed a new battery and needed a 3/4" spacer, so I cut (by hand) a piece of oak and even stained it black.

I've got mad skills, I know, everyone settle down.

 

Lol
We’ve got a pile of hand hewn wormy chestnut beams like that rotting away behind the shop at work . They’re like 12 x12x 8’ long and I don’t know what to do with them cuz they’re so full of nails and spikes

 

You'd be surprised, sometimes only a couple inches in is good wood, sometimes not as the above shows lol. It's a bit of work but you can de-nail and resaw into quality timbers.

 

I picked up 15 3"x8"x6' oak timbers from a local barn that was torn down. They were listed on craigslist for $20/ea.

They were filled with nail holes, but felt solid. I resawed them all into 1"x8"s. Only hit one nail.

Still haven't figured out what I want to do with them.

 

Firepit!
All the nails and spikes will be out of them when your done

 

I can identify....

 

I used to buy wood from a local guy with a small sawmill on his property.

He told me his neighbor had a huge oak tree on their property that was a perfect candidate for excellent yield, straight up and down with few branches on the lower trunk.

The neighbor was getting ready to cut it down and the sawmill guy approached him to buy tree for lumber- no thanks was the reply- this tree was perfect for splitting-for firewood! Lol