UCA Removal

I've watched all the video's and read most of the threads on how to change out the UCA's but when looking at my taco it looks like there is no way that long bolt will slide out even after bending the fender. On the driver side the battery is there and on the passenger side there is a bunch of metal lines in the way. I suppose there is enough slop/wiggle room once it becomes loose to work the bolt around everything but just wanted to be sure. I can post pictures if needed but figure all tacos are the same. Mine is a 2015 if that matters.

Before I rip everything apart I just want to make sure I'm not overlooking anything.

 

I ordered two spare UCA bolts/nuts before I began that endeavor. I wasn't interested in bending up/cutting my body so I cut the original bolts with a cutoff wheel and installed the new OEM bolts backwards which does not require any modification to the body.

 

Most people cut theirs and replace with new ones. The new ones can be inserted easily from the other direction. This is common practice, BUT, the reason the bolt comes in from the top originally is so that the bolt will not fall out if the nut works loose. The best way to do it is to come from the bottom and use some sort of locking scheme, like a second all metal locking nut, or possibly a castle nut with a cotter. It makes replacement and servicing so much easier.

 

I would not put the bolts in the opposite direction. Bend the sheet metal!

$24 10" Vise Grips Locking Plier Sheet Metal Clamp Tool

https://www.amazon.com/10-inch-Grips-Locking-Plier-Sheet/dp/B019ECSJYI

 

The passenger side is harder than the driver side. It took me an extra set of hands and eyes to get everything moved out of the way as I worked the bolt out.

 

Fair bit of bending on the pass side (careful not to pinch any of the lines)

I ended up removing my battery for clearance (just could not get past it)

Doable once you get at it - good luck!

 

Does anyone have a link where I can order some new UCA bolts and nuts before I do mine as well? Should I go through the dealer?

 

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofcons...lt-90105a0095/?c=aT04NDE2MjI1NSZyPWxheWVyXzY=

Cheap enough from the dealer

 

100% the way to go. I don’t worry one bit about them being in backwards.

 

I cut mine out with a sawzall. The pass side was easy, only took one cut. The drivers side was more difficult, i cut it twice.

I am not worried about the bolt coming lose as i check them for tight before trips and always regrease the bushings every 3-5k. Just keep an eye on them and check them every once in a while and youll be good to go. I got my uca bolts from wheelers

 

Only use OEM bolts yes. Camelback Toyota here has a rep that gives us a discount. Contact Gunny

There are thousands of trucks running around with backwards bolts. I've never heard of one coming loose. Shops even install them that way. Mine are that way, but I do plan to add lock nuts. I don't worry at all about a properly tightened, and loctited nut coming loose, but I would not go so far as to recommend it. Understand the risk and act accordingly. Adding an all metal lock nut is a cheap easy way to make it 100% safe.

 

A set of large slip joint pliers did the job bending the thin metal nicely for me and I was able to reinstall the bolts the same way with some wiggling. No cutting required. One could remove the old ones by cutting as others have said and install new ones backwards as long as you have a good ny-lock or oval-lock nut on there it should be just fine. The amount of force or vibration needed to overcome a lock-nut is way more than these trucks would ever experience.

 

Thanks everyone, cutting the bolt and replacing it is what I will be doing. I did not know that was an option.

 

It will take longer to cut out a perfectly good bolt than it does to simply massage the inner fender out of the way. I used vise-grips with a folded shop rag to gently bend the inner fender

 

Yep, just did this last weekend. Used some vise-grips and a rag to bend the inner fender a little bit. I popped some of the wire hold down clips that were in the area loose to to avoid damaging/getting hung up on the wire looms. I then used a cut off wheel on an angle grinder to cut the bolt heads off.

On the driver side it was actually easier to re-install my new bolt the original direction instead of deal with the brake lines that were in the way. Passenger side got installed opposite.

I found new bolts available via Amazon with prime shipping for $15 each. Reused the nuts I already had.

 

Does anyone have the part number for that bolt? I’m about to do the same thing.

 

Just replaced the uni balls and bushings in my TC UCA yesterday and the passenger side bolt was the worst. I used said pliers in previous post to wiggle inch by inch. It was difficult but it got done. Also changed the oil and rotated ties in about 3.5 hours.

 

OEM Toyota PN#:
90105A0095

 

@JustDSM Thank you!

 

Just putting my 2 cents in. I didnt have too much trouble with the passenger side. Still had to bend fender out of the way and move the wire looms after popping out their clips. Also pulled the power steering reservoir for easier access. Then once the bolt was loose, just punched it through with a 5/8 extension and it came out without too much trouble. I ended up reusing all the same hardware but flipped the thru. bolt the other direction too. Its doable for any future forum goers!

For drivers side I removed the battery and tray and wire looms and such and bent fender as well.
But none of that compared to the PITA to dremel out the top, engine side shock mount nut that was just spinning in its cradle. My god.