HELP! Added lift and now traction control is on

I don’t know for sure. They are stock Baja wheels.
I think they are -12 offset, 4.5 bs, 7.5 wide, 16 radius

I could be wrong about the offset it may be zero. I below the above numbers to be correct though.

 

Sounds like a helicopter task lol

 

Yeah I know it does.

 

I had similar issue but with17x9 -12mm offset with 265/70’s.

I pulled the very front mini flaps off completely. The inside edge of the front tires would rub during certain turns on rearmost flaps on the front. Mostly when i was half lock and hit a bump during a turn. This was mostly because of the negative offset. You are probably getting because your tires are taller.

I removed the flaps and cut out a portion of the plastic flare. I then reinstalled the flaps used a head gun and a 2x4 and to mold them in further, ended up working out.

 

As said in previous posts yaw rate sensor probably needs calibration. Nose-up condition indicates a “skid” on our trucks apparently. Does your VSC system kick on when you take turns? The trac light should flash and your truck should beep at you. I had the same issue after my lift which is almost identical to yours. I just said screw it and never calibrated, seems like the truck has recalibrated itself over the course of about 25k miles

 

I haven’t had the VSC actually kick in yet, but I can’t cycle through the settings either. If I hit my button it doesn’t do anything and should turn a couple options off. I’ve tried holding for 5 secs to disengage all VSC but the light remains solid at all times. The ABS auto engage hasn’t happened yet. I don’t want it to, and want the damn light off though. I’m going to try to delete and recalibrate like a link in this thread suggests. I still have a little rake , pretty close to factory.

 

I am going to get a switch today to build a little jumper to do the manual reset. Lets hope that works. I ended up taking off my front mudflaps for now. I would like to get a heat gun, and attempt a little modification to them before going a separate route. Has anyone had any luck with aftermarket mudflaps and 255/85/16? I also seem to rub a little when stuffing the tire on a turn. It isn't too bad, but I would like to figure all this out. I though going the full 3" would prevent all of this. If it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have any at all. I guess I should be happy that it aligned, and no vibes so far.

 

I have these on front and rear

$34 PLASTICOLOR 000543R01 Black Off Road Scene Easy Fit Mud Guard 11" - Set of 2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NIJS0

As far as rubbing goes, a 3" lift should stuff just as far as stock suspension. You need to adjust your caster to prevent rub. After that, it's all

With 255/85/16s on stock steel wheels, I don't rub anywhere and I haven't trimmed anything. Before putting in UCAs, I rubbed the back of the wheel well when stuffed and turned. Also, before adding spacers to my top plates for additional lift (with 885 coils) I had rubbed the top of my wheel well a couple times at full compression.

 

I am attaching my alignment numbers. They told me you guys didn't know what you were talking about and i didn't need 3 degrees of caster. I am wondering if that would make the difference. Also it appears that my wheel is more towards the rear of the fender than the front. What adjustment can be made to correct that? LCA or UCA? Or is it just that the axle is there and that is where it mounts? Sorry pretty ignorant when it comes to the mechanical side of things.

Thanks for the link to mudflaps, I'll definitely check into those.

 

You should be good with the 255s. I just went to the skinny tire and have only noticed rub at about 1/4 turn while going up hill. All flaps have been removed for awhile now and I don't like the look of them.

 

With the front flaps removed I did get rid of most of the rubbing. I still have some very minor rubbing when stuffing. I haven't been able to identify where though. I am taking it in the re-torque everything after running it for a weekend. I will have a better look while it is up on the lift. My rub is also about 1/4-1/2 turn. Straight and full lock do not rub at all.

 

FWIW I have the same lift and had 0lights before and after. So I'm not sure the vsc light is that common after lifting.

 

I didn't have the light until the alignment was done. That is what doesn't make sense to me, but the link in the beginning of this thread makes me feel a little more at ease. i just have to make the jumper with switch to try the fix.

 

I took the truck into the shop that installed the lift. They used their OBD2 reader and reset the VSC.

 

Truck should drive pretty nice with those numbers. If you want more caster, get SPC UCAs. You'll also get more down travel from them because of the extended ball joint and wider inboard opening (won't hit your coils like stock UCAs). They're lower profile too, so your tires won't rub them.

 

I’ve got SPC UCA. That is why I’m wondering if I should push the issue with caster and try to get it to 3 degrees.

 

I'm running at 2.5 caster without issues. If I was going to get an alignment, I'd bump up to 3. It drives fine though, so I'm not changing it at the moment.

 

OP is your steering wheel centered?

 

Steering wheel is centered and drives great down the road. No pulling and steering feels tight. I haven’t had it on the highway yet, but doesn’t seem to wonder going down the road so far.

 

Can anyone explain castor in a way I can understand. More specifically why 2.5-3 is ideal with 3" of lift. Why 3 is preferred over 2.5? If I should push my numbers to 3 degrees?

As far as I am concerned with my numbers it seems to drive alright and tracks pretty straight. I don't see a need to change the set-up, but if there are benefits I would definitely consider it. Thanks for the enlightenment!