2nd gen lower steering shaft rebuild DIY :)

REMEMBER this is for entertainment this is how i did it, what YOU DO IS UP TO YOU !!! I DO NOT want you to try this at home your truck will explode in to little pieces. I am not a mechanic nor do i pretend to be one i do not know your mechanical abilities or your judgement on what is safe or not. SO AGAIN DO NOT DO THIS AT HOME OR WORK OR AT YOUR PARENTS HOUSE take it to a PROFESSIONAL to have any work completed on your truck



Second gen Tacomas have a lower intermediate shaft with a u joint and yokes close to the steering rack end. This u joint is not protected from the elements and tends to fail often causing the steering to become sticky or bind causing unwanted results. Seen in pink highlighted area




If your not having problems with it now i would suggest to spray the u joint with penetrating oil every oil change.

The u joint is NOT a serviceable part through the dealer, they want to sell you the complete assembly. The caps for the u joint are staked into place ( metal bent over )

I am in CANADA my dealer wanted $600 the best price i could get out of the OEM part was just under $400. There is a aftermarket shaft for $150 the same price as some of the local machine shops charge to rebuild my old one.

Pictures of a new one my local dealer had in stock











SOOOOOO This is my DIY on how i rebuilt the old one, I did my research and asked questions i was told that a

$31 ALL BALLS 19-1010 All Balls U-Joint Kit 19-1010

ALL BALLS 19-1010 kit for a BRP atv will work. I ordered one through my local Honda dealer for around $30.

REMEMBER this is for entertainment this is how i did it, what YOU DO IS UP TO YOU !!! i do not want you to try this at home.





A mechanic friend called me and said he had a shaft that was replaced out of a 2011 and it was seized and the owner did not want it back, he kept it for me to try my rebuild on.
Once i had the old shaft I took the steering shaft into work and ran it across the wire wheel to clean the rust and crap off of it. The u joint is seized in one direction.












Picture for reference Flat spot in shaft up and treads for bolt down or you could make a mark on the two yokes so it will go back together the same way.. Cleaned up with wire wheel






I took a grinder with a cutting disk and cut into the u joint cap careful not to damage the yoke 1st red line. I rotated the joint so i had the cut cap in and the uncut one out to be able to access to make the second cut.

Once removed you will have the u joint held in with the two opposite caps in the other yoke this will provide lots of room to be able to cut into what is remaining of the u joint. Red line 3 and 4.

After the center section of the u joint is removed i put the ear of the yoke into a vice and used a hammer and a punch to knock the caps down into the center to remove.















To reinstall you will need to file out the stakes that held the old cap in. I used a chainsaw round file, made a few passes to clean it up.

Installation of new u joint, I put one new cap 1/2 way in then took the u joint and put it in the yoke cap. took the opposite cap and installed 1/2 way, then moved the u joint so both ends were in the bearing caps, I did this so the bearings would be held in place.

I put the joint into the vice and tightened the jaws to squeeze the caps into the yoke slowly. Care is needed here to make sure your are drawing them in straight re positing might be needed to fair up one side of the cap. Draw the cap into the yoke until the retaining clip can be inserted into its slot. Once one clip is in I used a socket on that side in the vice so the pressure would be on the yoke not the joint as i did not want to push the cap in further. I also used a socket on the other side to push on the cap only to bring the retaining slot into place.

EDIT *** I also plan to stake the yoke as a second way of keeping the cap in place.

The thought of putting RED locktight on the cap before installing in the yoke also crossed my mind














I installed the provided grease nipple and tested the rebuilt joint for
clearance.

I also plan to cut a length of HD dirt bike tube to slide over the joint to protect it from the elements. This will be held in place with zip ties. When it comes time to grease under carriage, just cut one zip tie slide up grease and reinstall the zip tie.


EDIT !!!

For added surface area contact the clips will be rotated



I hope someone gets use out of this DIY and saves $$$$

Tacoma World is a awesome place with a excellent group of members

AGAIN THIS IS YOUR STEERING MAKE SURE IT IS SAFE TO USE

shameless plug for my 07 taco pro build where this and many more wrenching adventures can be found

have a look

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/canadian-family-taco-build-and-bs.527692/


Jon

 

Totally awesome! I had toyota replace mine when they did the frame recall. Thanks for posting this

 

Thanks for the write up !!

This is going to save members a lot of time and money .

Good job sourcing the greaseable universal joint

 

Excellent write up @Jon G !


@tcBob Can we make this thread a sticky to get more visibility?

 

You sir are a scholar and a gentleman.

 

Thanks for sharing! great info, well done sir!

 

@Jon G Great Information,Thank You!

 

Awesome thanks!

 

just added this edit

I also plan to cut a length of HD dirt bike tube to slide over the joint to protect it from the elements. This will be held in place with zip ties. When it comes time to grease under carriage, just cut one zip tie slide up grease and reinstall the zip tie.

 

@tcBob
news letter ?

 

x2

also Just posted this to the NSBS thread, a few guys in there had some steering shaft issues.

 

Sorry everyone, I’m going to be that guy. Nice work op, but I don’t like the way the retaining circlips aren’t captured. They only touch the shaft in a couple of spots and I would be very concerned that they will wear and fall out. At least humor me op and keep checking them. I would only do this if I could replace the circlips into the oem recesses.

 

I don't think there is any OEM Recesses. It looks like the U-Joint was designed this way on purpose, so I would trust the manufacturer to know what they are doing. These are ATV U-joints and are going to see a lot more stress in an ATV then a steering shaft of a vehicle. if you really wanted to do it "OEM" style, then could could un-steak the caps, then re-steak. Honestly if you check these everytime you change your oil, I'd think you'll be fine

 

@Toy4me no its good to bring this kind of thing up

The OEM caps did not have any clips holding them in, only two areas per a cap top and bottom that were staked in the yoke ( metal bent over the top of the cap) as shown in the below picture. This picture was after I drove the cap into the yoke so the amount of bent over metal is the same as what Toyota deemed safe to hold the caps. The Circlip that came with the ATV u joint snaps into the slot to provide a solid stop from the cap backing off. This circlip also has way more surface area making contact with the yoke. Also this is a pressed fit once you go through the process of putting the new caps in using the force from the jaws of the vice you will see it needs a fair amount of force to drive the caps in.

The caps stay stationary in the yoke circlip does not move so there would no wear, u joint pin that goes in cap is what moves the cap has needle bearings in it

The circlip and u joint set up is for a ATV drive daft that spins at unknown RPM and holds the cap in place

The amount of rotation that this u joint will see is slow ( same speed as you turn the wheel)

But yes as with ANYTHING and EVERYTHING it could fail so i do plan on checking it

 

Jon G i bow at your feet. I'm so glad i found this write up because my 2010 DoubleCab steering shaft is acting up right now. I so want to do this and i searched for that All Balls 237-191010 kit on the internet and not one single link showed up. I can call a Honda shop tomorrow but it just seems strange you cant find any online. I'm puzzled

 

@tmj41765



Hummmm this is the packaging it came in with the part # the supplier is les import thibault (French)but I am sure other aftermarket suppliers can order it using this #

 

Did a search on thibault’s atv catalog for the number and it says it fits a bayou

 

My bad, the part number

$31 19-1010 All Balls U-Joint Kit 19-1010

19-1010 is on Amazon. So sorry for my confusion, and thank you again!!!