Hammer Hangers® by Archive Garage 2005-2023 Tacoma Shackle Hangers

So why did you gain ride height? It’s only a 1/4” but I would prefer to avoid any more lift in the rear. Especially since I’m going to do the AAL to my Dakar pack when I do this.

Was thinking of going with a longer shackle. That should drop ride height right?

 

The shackle pivot is lower to fit 4.9" shackles, which are a good fit with Dakars, and would drop your ride height a little lower than stock

 

What Eric said. I'm actually keeping it because I have a HC rear bumper with swingout on the way so it will drop back down after the weight.

I made my own crossbar support today. Came out pretty good.

 

How much of a benefit would you say it is to add a cross bar? I mean, I doubt many hangers and frames are bending but I'm debating on adding the option on the hangers.

Edit: Order placed! I'll add a cross bar later. Saving the 130$ for the moment.

 

Thanks for the order Andy, added you to post #128! The cross tube is a good decision if you're using the truck in gnarly terrain. The main purpose of the cross tube is to connect the hangers, thus connecting the frame rails so that both rails can deal with the stress of dragging 1 hanger on a rock.

 

Tactical Application Vehicles posted some pics on Instagram of the Hammer hangers with 4.9" shackles and Alcan springs (unloaded), I'm excited to be working with TAV

 

So if my math is right, the old factory rivets on my hangers should be getting blasted with a plasma cutter in a little over a week....

 

You're correct, you should be unboxing them by next Friday/Saturday

 

This brings up a question I have. What is the best way to remove the old rivers?

 

I've heard that making a cross cut on the head of the rivet then blasting it from the side with an air chisel is the most effective method time-wise that also runs the least risk of frame marring.

 

Do you have instructions? Basically drilling the rivets out works, I recommend grinding off the heads to drill less. You cannot hammer the rivets out, but you can use a balljoint press that puts pressure on the rivet and backside of rail, this is another method that Brad @pdx_trdor on Instagram reported works well.

 

That is an excellent question. I received and opened my box but I never tore anything out since I wasn’t ready to work on the install.

I’ll have to check.

 

I picked up an almost-new set of TRD PRO / Off-Road springs today, 700-ish miles on them.

The mystery of how exactly they are different from the ones on my truck (SR5 / TRD Sport) is still not 100% clear. The only difference I could note is the ones on my truck measured 1.63" thick and the PRO/ Off-Roads measured in at 1.71"... less than a tenth of overall thickness is probably negligible, but it might just give me a hair of lift.

 

Hey Kyle,
Thanks for posting the difference in spring thickness. What cab do you have? I know the PRO only comes Double Cab Short Bed. If you have Access Cab, that could be a reason for difference, as the weight on rear axle is a lot different due to center of gravity.

Eric

 

Access Cab SR is what I have, but interestingly enough I've been lurking and peeking at for sale ads on here trying to read part numbers off of springs.

As far as I can tell (and I'd love for some other members who have info to chime in here) most trucks get a "standard" pack and the PRO or Off-Road get a different, slightly beefier pack, and cab has nothing to do with it. Aside from DCLB maybe, but those are rare enough that I have absolutely no data to scrounge up.

Driver's side leaves have yellow paint for their part numbers, passenger's side have white paint.

I see numerous Double Cab TRD Sports out there with the same leaf P/N's as on my truck:
48210 - 04710C Passenger
48220 - 04350C Driver

The TRD PRO and Off-Road both seem to have the following P/N, which is what my extra leaf set is:
48210-04870 Passenger
48220-04510 Driver

Toyota parts websites are remarkably unhelpful as they say the blue part numbers (minus the "C" at the end) fit EVERYTHING- Pro through SR- and the orange part numbers fit nothing (though they are still listed as valid leaf spring part numbers)

I'd love to have access to a lot of people peeking at their springs (it's really easy to read the part number, you can just read it right off the top of the spring next to the bump stop) but so far internet sleuthing is the best I can come up with.

 

Only 1 week left on sale and chance to win $330 refund! (Ends April 15th)

 

Can you PM me the TW code? I'm in for a set.

 

Eric, or anyone else with a suggestion. Sorry for the long post-
I’m very close to pulling the trigger on this, and just have some questions about how best to set mine up.
I currently have a 09 TRD Offroad, Dbl cab, swb. I’m running Allpro Expo springs, with ATO’s shackle flip kit w/6” shackles.
I carry a lot of weight: snugtop, f&r prinsu roofracks, fab fours rear plate bumper with tire carrier for a 35” tire and highlift jack, plus two rotopax cans (2gal each). In the bed I have a TruckVault drawer system with tools of my trade and tools of hobby. I have firestone airbags in a floating type mount to handle all the weight.
The rear sits about 1-1.25” higher than I’d like and gets a thud when I hit a sharp abrupt bump, like the speed bumps that my local store puts in to keep everyone below a snails pace. I’m worried that I may be bottoming out my shocks, RCD Extended length Bilsteins.
Will the HH bolt right into the holes from the ATO/4Xinnovations flip kit or will I need to dril new holes?
My expos springs only have a slight positive arch as it sits.
What do you recommend? Would be nice to not need the air bags
I’m thinking HH bolted to existing holes from ATO flip kit, with the 4.9 shackles.

Thanks, James

 

Hi James,

Actually thanks for posting all the details. The Hammer hangers bolt into the factory rivet hole locations after being drilled larger to 1/2", so these will just bolt in for you.
The ride should improve noticeably with HH, and I recommend the cross tube option and the stock shackles. The 3.6" will fit with AP expo rear spring eye style, and 4.9" might put you a bit lower than you'd like.

The Hammer hangers are a big step in the right direction, but you should do some digging into what is making the thud, you should have a few inches of shock uptravel.
The AP springs have bushings 1/8" narrower than stock and may mean the bolt isn't gripping the bushing bolt sleeves, I offer 1/8" spacer washers with the kit to equal 2.875" like stock (1 washer per spring eye)

Thanks,
Eric

 

Should be getting my set in the mail tomorrow!