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Brakes are still dragging

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by _jaydubya_, Apr 11, 2018.

  1. Apr 11, 2018 at 6:34 AM
    #1
    _jaydubya_

    _jaydubya_ [OP] Member

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    Alright guys I’ve just dumped $365.00 into new pads rotors and calipers to fix my dragging front brakes. They still aren’t fixed. New rotor on the passenger side has turned completely blue from being so hot. I don’t know what else to do here. It’s an ‘07 with 296k miles. It’s my daily and I need to find out something fast to get this fixed.
     
    BassAckwards likes this.
  2. Apr 11, 2018 at 6:41 AM
    #2
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    front calipers replace both
     
  3. Apr 11, 2018 at 6:54 AM
    #3
    badger

    badger Well-Known Member

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    I always replace the calipers when I do brakes with high miles. Disk brake calipers only retract the pads from the disk with the stretch in the rubber seal around the pistons. When that seals gets hard, it won't stretch and won't retract. You could rebuild your calipers, but new ones aren't too bad cost wise. Camelback offers discounts here if you go through Gunny. Do this soon before you ruin your new disk!
     
  4. Apr 11, 2018 at 7:00 AM
    #4
    _jaydubya_

    _jaydubya_ [OP] Member

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    I just replaced calipers too. I don’t know. Maybe water in the lines? It hasn’t been changed from factory and it’s almost 11 years old. I read on here somewhere that water in the system would cause them to not retract.
     
  5. Apr 11, 2018 at 7:07 AM
    #5
    Bebop

    Bebop Old fashion cowboy

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    What kind of calipers did you use? If you got some piece of shit cardone caliper then there is your problem
     
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  6. Apr 11, 2018 at 7:08 AM
    #6
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    where did you get the calipers from? if they are hanging up they aren't operating correctly get ur money back or a replacement that works
     
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  7. Apr 11, 2018 at 7:09 AM
    #7
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    this, go to the Toyota dealer see if they have reman'd calipers or bite the bullet and get new OEM
     
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  8. Apr 11, 2018 at 7:11 AM
    #8
    Bebop

    Bebop Old fashion cowboy

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    6inch lift sitting on bilstein coilovers. Lexus is300 studs in front to keep stock wheels, general grabber red letters, nfab front bumper.
    Napa total eclipse caliper would be my go-to caliper choice. They are good looking and I have yet to have one fail on me or any of my customers cars. Plus they have a really good warranty.
     
    spitdog and BillsSR5[QUOTED] like this.
  9. Apr 11, 2018 at 7:11 AM
    #9
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    11 YEARS OLD!!!! it must be black as the ace of spades, that could be an issue
     
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  10. Apr 11, 2018 at 7:12 AM
    #10
    Bebop

    Bebop Old fashion cowboy

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    6inch lift sitting on bilstein coilovers. Lexus is300 studs in front to keep stock wheels, general grabber red letters, nfab front bumper.
    A proper brake flush with a pressure bleeder would be ideal for a vehicle of this age.
     
    BillsSR5[QUOTED] likes this.
  11. Apr 11, 2018 at 7:14 AM
    #11
    _jaydubya_

    _jaydubya_ [OP] Member

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    Kind of on a college kid budget here. OEM kinda isn’t in my price range. I would love new OEM parts but I quite frankly can not afford it.
     
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  12. Apr 11, 2018 at 7:16 AM
    #12
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    True, the Tacomas are also notoriously hard to bleed to get all the air out of the system a proper pressure flush with a machine is in order,had mine flushed at the dealership for $128 but was worth it no more soft pedal after trying to bleed them 6+ times using the pump pedal hold method
     
  13. Apr 11, 2018 at 7:18 AM
    #13
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    OEM reman'd or NAPA pick ur poisin, those Advance/Vato ZONE remans don't hold up,
     
  14. Apr 11, 2018 at 7:20 AM
    #14
    Styx586

    Styx586 Well-Known Member

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    So if I'm understanding correctly, your right front caliper was dragging before, you replaced both calipers and the same one is still dragging? I'd not necessarily condemn the new parts right off the bat, thoroughly inspect your brake lines/hoses for kinks or damage. And definitely have a complete brake fluid exchange done with a pressure bleeder.
     
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  15. Apr 11, 2018 at 11:22 AM
    #15
    Jeffs68

    Jeffs68 Well-Known Member

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    Might be the calipers, might not be...Next time you drive it and the right front starts grabbing, stop the truck (at home preferably) and crack the bleeder screw at the caliper.
    If pressurized fluid comes out, suspect an ABS module failing or a internally collapsed rubber brake hose, if NO or very little fluid comes out, you have a mechanical issue with the caliper.
    In any event a good flush as recommended above would prudent as well (as part of or after the repairs).
     
  16. Apr 11, 2018 at 3:09 PM
    #16
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    I seem to remember someone having brake issues due to a worn out wheel hub bearing...

    Just thinking out loud here.
     
  17. Apr 11, 2018 at 3:35 PM
    #17
    IA Mike

    IA Mike Well-Known Member

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    I would lean toward an internally collapsed brake hose. They can break down inside and still look perfectly fine on the outside. If hoses were pinched off for caliper change that could easily aggravate an already iffy hose. Good quality replacement hoses are pretty inexpensive, too. 11 years old and 300K miles with original fluid alone would make them suspect in my mind. Checks for fluid flow, etc are a good move and a full flush with fresh fluid when all is done would certainly be a good idea.
     
  18. Apr 11, 2018 at 8:04 PM
    #18
    _jaydubya_

    _jaydubya_ [OP] Member

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    No play in the bearings. Checked those as well. I used to daily a 2000 F150 and the wheel bearing failed and I lost all front brakes
     
  19. Apr 11, 2018 at 8:19 PM
    #19
    bikerx

    bikerx Member

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    may or may not help but i bought my 2nd gen used in Jan with fresh pads and rotors. noticed my drivers dragged like a bad wheel bearing after further inspection they had 3 Shims behind each pad causing the brakes to drag .

    i removed one of the shims and used the two oem ones ( one slotted cf looking one and one solid metal one) fixed my brake drag problem but killed my wheel bearing before that -_-...( passenger side didn't drag but it also had 6 shims total.. removed the shims and braking was night and day difference not to mention my truck actually coasted pretty far now LOL.

    summary make sure there is only two shims per a pad per a side.pads should easily slid in and out of their channel without much effort. grease your pins. im crossing my fingers you just have too many shims
     
    Biscuits likes this.
  20. Apr 11, 2018 at 9:21 PM
    #20
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    I've had to take shims out to get pad clearance sometimes.

    Crack the line at the master cylinder and see if the wheel spins freely
     

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