Manual locking hubs?

Well, you can also have manual t-case w/ add- not manual hubs and not push button.

 

If you had a 95.5 to 04 with push button 4wd and add you still could put manual hubs on it. It is just parts.

 

i was asking about on-the-fly locking hubs on a manual transmission rig. I'm pretty sure this is a combination that occurs and i am curious if the on-the-fly bottom to lock the hubs is on the 4wd shifter on a manual transmission rig as it is in the automatic transmission rigs. my truck is manual transmission with manual locking hubs so i can't speak from experience.

 

OK let's clear the air for some facts:
--Manual hubs Tacomas were only available from '95.5-'00.
--You either have Manual Locking hubs or the ADD system, there are NO Auto/On-the-fly locking hubs (read on).
--ALL '01-'04 Tacoma's were ADD (unless converted by their owner).
--There are no 'clutches' in an ADD system as mentioned previously. There are NO locking mechanisms in the ADD hub, it is NOT an 'Auto-locking hub', in an 'Automatic Disconnecting Differential' (ADD).
--The CV axles on an ADD truck pass thru a splined hub at the wheel and are retained by a 35mm headed nut, there is nothing else there, it doesn't unlock, lock, do tricks or anything. They spin ALL THE TIME.
--If you have the ADD system and break an axle you CANNOT continue to drive it without either replacing that axle, or removing the inner joint and axle shaft from the CV axle assy, the outer joint must stay!
--You CANNOT remove the outer joint (one that passes thru the wheel hub) and drive it, that 35mm nut that retains the CV axle also, more importantly, retains the wheel bearing. It will come apart if driven!
--Manual hub conversions are simple and require very few parts on a J-shifted ADD truck. Spindle and hub assy's and CV axles, that's it. You do NOT have to swap diffs, or hose clamp the ADD collar as some believe.
--The greatest draw to the manual hub swap for those that wheel their rigs is, in the event of an axle breakage, the ability to unlock that hub and simply drive it home. Once that hub is unlocked the axle no longer spins.
--With manual hubs you can also remove the entire CV axle (should stuff a rag in the diff side opening) and drive it to your heart's content. The wheel bearing is retained by a threaded locking collar torqued to a high value.

What's shown in this pic is ALL that's required to swap to manual hubs:

 

--If you have the ADD system and break an axle you CANNOT continue to drive it without either replacing that axle, or removing the inner joint and axle shaft from the CV axle assy, the outer joint must stay!

--You CANNOT remove the outer joint (one that passes thru the wheel hub) and drive it, that 35mm nut that retains the CV axle also, more importantly, retains the wheel bearing. It will come apart if driven!

That is why you see pre-runner Tacoma's with the front wheels falling off all the time, lol. The 35mm headed nut holds the cv in the bearing housing nothing more. There is a abs tone ring or spacer if not equipped and a bearing retaining nut, That is what holds it all together.

 

Show me the retainer on an 4x4 ADD hub assy. Hint, there’s not one. There is no reason the ADD axle nut torque is 173 ft/lbs when a manual hub axle is retained by a circlip if it's only purpose was retaining the axle. I’ll take pictures of the old ADD assemblies I have and you can see for yourself.

 

You got it right. I have to eat my words. I spent my time working with the pre runner and manual hub's. I have a set of the add hub's and they are different.

 

Read above after my edit

 

One more benefit of having manual hubs: you can drive 2x4 on Low - like a farm tractor . The only use of that, I can think of is driving steep curved pavement or pulling something - you have high torque available without breaking the diff or t-case. Or just for fun.

One warning: when front hubs are unlocked you can't shift from 2H to 4H while driving, for obvious reasons.

 

Oh you can shift to 4-Hi but it’ll still be 2-hi..lol

 

That reminded me one more benefit of having manual locking hubs. The manual says to use 4WD from time to time to lubricate the front and t-case. With manual locking hubs you can do it on the pavement - driving in 4H with unlocked hubs.

 

Ohh I missunderstood that there was a difference between on the fly and ADD. thanks for clearing that up for me.

 

‘On the fly’ is just a term many have coined for a system that doesn’t require you to get out and manually lock the hubs to be in 4wd.

 

Not true both my 96s did not have locking hubs.

 

In early model tacomas you could get both. Either ADD or manual hubs.

There are lots of benefits to 2 lo. Being able to still turn tight with my front locked is really nice.

Finally someone with a decent explanation

 

My 1999 has manual hubs.

 

I can't see "this pic," for some reason...

 

Unless...by pic you meant your verbal description

 

Correct, my '97 std cab V-6 was ADD out of the factory, I swapped it years ago.

 

Strange, it was there earlier..Basically it's just the spindle assemblies (everything between the upper and lower ball joints) and the CV axles.