What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

My SC arrive, more than a little banged up but at least it is here. Need to get a new bypass valve cause it broke off in shipping, and i need to retap the hole for the brake booster bard cause it got pulled out in shipping. Oh and a throttle body stud got bent but I was able to pull it out so no harm there. Gonna have to see about getting that bypass valve though, I spun the SC up by drill and it sounds okay so I think I'll still come out on top. Gonna fucking ream fedex and the seller though cause he packed it pretty poorly.

 

that sucks.

I bet you can get parts now though through magnuson pretty easily now though. Should be able to anyways..

 

It was made by Alpine but it looks like LCE sells the valve I need. It also looks like I could temp fix it for the time being to test everything. Gotta figure out what to tap the brake booster port over to.

 

Ah screw it, I ordered a new bypass valve. Still gotta figure out what to tap this brake booster hole out too. Looks like it is a deep hole but only tapped shallow so I might be able to get away with just tapping another 1/8 to 1/4 in of it cause the barb had plenty more threads to go in.

 

Code came back after 96 miles. No engine light yet but I see the code in the pending codes.

2 questions:
What's the difference between short-term and long-term for the fuel trim?
Is there a point in the fuel trim numbers where I should stop driving if it keeps going up?

 

Short term is what the computer is changing on top of long term in about 5sec intervals to keep up with fueling demand, long term I forget the interval for but is still pretty short and is what the base is, it is essentially a two step fuel demand calculation "trim". Trimming happens when something it cannot account for occurs. Like unmetered air (positive trim) or if somehow your combustion chamber shrunk (negative trim). So when everything is functioning correctly you only should have maybe 0 - 7 % positive or negative.

 

Ok thank you. So I'm going to ask some more dumb questions sorry. Why is the short term trim never as high as the long-term trip, if the long-term trim is just a longer window? (So I expected to be the average short-term trim)

The long-term trim gets worse the more I'm on the gas (just cruising speed -55 vs 70, not acceleration), I assume that's because the engine is trying to pull more fuel and oxygen?

I noticed that in my readiness monitors there's one that is in "incomplete" status - evaporative system. Possibly related?

 

Think of the short term as a modifier for the long term. It's only calculating what more needs to be done on top of the long term so it won't ever be as high

Also the evap isn't ready cause you reset the ECU. It'll set as ready or set a code once it's test criteria are met... Certain speed, certain idle time, certain vacuum

 

the EVAP box has several vac lines running to and from it. Its right behind the fuse box on the driver side. could very well be related.

 

Angry girlfriends and gas thieves make quick work of locking gas doors.

 

Highly recommend, took me maybe 10 minutes.

 

Got it. Thanks guys. I sprayed the evap canister and its various lines with the starting fluid (a few hours ago) nothing happened.

I did notice that the EVAP system status only went to incomplete after I clear the codes. So maybe it just hasn't reset itself yet. I just thought it would have given that I've driven 160 miles since I reset it.

 

I finished up installing 7" auxbeam flood led pod/bars in the stock turn signal holes in the lower valence. I had previously done the turn signal mod so I didn't have that to worry about.

 

Can you watch your fuel trims climb with a live reader? If so, I would pull vacuum hoses one by one and plug them and see if your trim changes. If your short term is that high you should see an obvious drop when you find the culprit. With numbers that high I would think you could hear the hissing from the leak.

 

With headlights on only and then with the headlights and pods on. I've not had anybody flash me since I've installed them even though they look to throw out alot of light.

 

Added a couple pods and a bar to my new ARB bumper. Have other ideas for lights on it but already had l these.

 

I wish I could hear the hissing sound. At least then I'd know what line I needed to shore up. I like the idea to plug lines one at a time, I'm just not sure I will know all the lines or which end to plug. I do love learning all of this stuff though, so appreciate you guys taking the time to give suggestions.

The other problem is that it's apparently raining in all of Oregon today, so hopefully by the time I get to Nevada it won't be raining and I can spend more time on it outside.

 

Yah DV

 

Yep.

 

Anybody have this happen to them on their upper radiator support. This crack was on the drivers side next to the rubber hood stopped. Common in first gens?

I’ve only heard about upper radiator cracks in the 2nd gens. Should I butt weld grind then plate or just drill a hole at the end so the crack doesn’t continue? Or no biggie just leave it. It’s about 1/2” to 3/4” long