TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I'm under the hood so much I just check I could always switch and use the washer tank. I believe it does have a low level sensor.

 

I'm experimenting now. Meaning turning knobs and flooring the truck more so not an accurate average yet. Probably a gallon per tank of gas.

 

I'm getting gauges next. That's another grand:/

 

What are you getting diamond laced gauges or what?
Speedhut boost/vac gauge https://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GR-BOOST-07/1/Boost-Vac-Gauge-30inhg-0-15psi-(w--warning) $170
Innovate Motorsports DLG-1 dual afr gauge http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/dlg1.php
$340 but can be found cheaper.
$60-$110 for gauge mount of your choice, pillar or column.
O2 bongs and possibly welding charge $50
$600-$650 and your in there!

 

O2 bongs are refreshing!

 

Thanks for the set up advice. My guess was high. I was also including temp, fuel, and oil with related fittings. I want a boost and afr gauge 1st.

 

Yes, two more years and I can once more!

 

Is a dual bong afr the way to go? I was planning on a single. Feedback welcomed.

 

Single works fine if you dont have cats and put it at the merge collector. A dual gauge let's you see double the resolution since you can see what each bank of cylinders are doing.
Ideally reading each cylinder would be best but probably overkill for our application.

 

Oh yes, keeps you awake to enjoy the buzz!

Where do you find this shit? I think you have a collection of about 1,000,000,000 pics you can just pull out on command.

I retire 1 Jan 19! At least from my 1st career.

 

At 30K I would check the PCV valve. It sounds like it may be faulty and allowing too much oil to get through.

This is the tank I run on mine.

Water/ meth injection is not an issue with the rotors. It happened to a bad batch of coated rotors once a long time ago and the horror stories continued to follow after, but the stories were no longer true, so it became more urban legend than anything.

I mean, I really don't think it can get THAT hot though. Besides, with over 75% more capacity over stock capacity, I think if anything the amount of reserve coolant getting run through the system is more than overkill. My blower is just a happy camper no matter how hard I beat on it.

 

I thought about the cooling ability of using annealed aluminum tubing for the supercharger lines. Some small section(s) of silicone tube connections for removal. Less to leak, more surface area to dissipate heat. I might be overthinking things. But I have seen wear marks on the hoses in places.

 

It would be a lot of work, but not impossible. I have seen the hosing wearing from rubbing in certain spots as well so I have used all the looming provided with the kit in all the potential wear spots to prevent further issues, and since the hosing in the system never buipds up pressure, only provides the ability for the coolant to run through the system, bursting will never be an issue.

If there was pressure, I would be very concerned.

 

Yes, I thought of the pressure not being an issue. Last I looked it's like 30 bucks and it's enough to do two trucks. I figured it to be around 350 square inches of surface area on the pipe. Rubber covered in loom can't be near the same for cooling. With some large diameter PVC or a conduit bender I figured I could make something one of a kind and functional.

 

Good to know! I would have done it a long time ago, if not for fear of the rotors.

And I bought the catch can for the pcv loop something like 2 years ago. Truck has spent half of that time sitting while I worked.

Anybody know what the under hood temps are like? I could see that actually recuding the efficiency of the system. On my 2013 Toyota replaced the broken A/C line (which is aluminum) heading into the cab. The one that came on the truck was insulated the whole length, and the one the put on was only half length.

Long story short, unless at highway speeds the A/C suffered greatly, I hooked up the manifolds and checked the pressures etc but the only change was that line being non insulated vs insulated before.

So in the intercooler loopn the LTR sees fresh air temps, and all the lines (or most) are in the engine compartment. In my biased thinking the lines could raise the temp back up, depending on how well the LTR cools. If that is not the case, how about using PEX or similar hard/formable plastic line for insulating properties and throwing a larger LTR in? If increased capacity is needed.

 

Anybody know what the under hood temps are like? I could see that actually reducing the efficiency of the system. On my 2013 Toyota replaced the broken A/C line (which is aluminum) heading into the cab. The one that came on the truck was insulated the whole length, and the one the put on was only half length.

Long story short, unless at highway speeds the A/C suffered greatly, I hooked up the manifolds and checked the pressures etc but the only change was that line being non insulated vs insulated before.

So in the intercooler loopn the LTR sees fresh air temps, and all the lines (or most) are in the engine compartment. In my biased thinking the lines could raise the temp back up, depending on how well the LTR cools. If that is not the case, how about using PEX or similar hard/formable plastic line for insulating properties and throwing a larger LTR in? If increased capacity is needed.[/QUOTE]

This^

 

http://www.shopfigs.com/v3/TANK-COOL-FAB-MAG?search=supercharger

 

It's awesome, asshole!