Front tow hook replacement?

Dude....that factory hook you have on your off road is by far the best option for a proper recovery. Way better than slapping a D ring on there. Why do you think you need to upgrade it? People who have non-TRD OR models seek out those hooks up upgrade to them. They are beefy as hell and offer the absolute minimum in number of potential failure points when you loop a proper snatch strap over it. Do not waste your money upgrading to something aftermarket and overpriced that will not be as good.

 

Overlanding by yourself?

 

I'm leaning towards leaving it on now as I have heard several differing opinions on the subject. Some say that the hook isn't "sufficient" enough for proper recovery but I'm assuming you need to be stuck as hell for that not to be able to work.

 

Lol the overland is going to take a couple years so by that time I will have made some buddies and did trips together. I haven't done overlanding as of yet.

 

If you do go by yourself, the front recovery point will be used. You are also going to need a winch. The winch and proper tackle will be important.

 

Long run I am thinking of an aftermarket front bumper that will include two recovery points anyways. So for the time being it seems as though I will just stick with the factory OR hook.

 

The only thing I didn't like about the OR hook is the fact it's open. So I have the BPF now.

 

I'll make one exception to everything I've said so far - an aftermarket front bumper bolted to the frame with two D ring attachment points and a bridle is better than the factory hook. But until you get to that point the hook is what you want.

 

Apparently, serious off-roading is something I have no idea about... Therefore I have decided to install aluminum skids, which I trashed on what was supposed to be easy green trail ( yes, they did their job protecting engine, transmission and transfer case, but TC skid plate perished while doing so). As much as I understand got my skid plates don't have much to do with recovery points, it just goes to show that.. hey, you never know!
It seems they're replacing stock tow hook with something that's going to bolt to the same location , might not be the best course of action.
But that's just my opinion, so please take it with a pinch of salt

 

I have the BPF as well. What I don't like about the TRD hook is it's an unknown (cast or forged and what material?) and I'm not aware of any official rating by Toyota. Being a hook or closed eye and all of that is personal choice. I just want to know or be able to figure out capacities in the chain.

 

Did you get rid of it already?

 

Still have it

 

PM sent!

 

Old thread revival

What exactly is the weak point of the transport hoop used on the TRD Sport

Is it the hoop? Bolts used to secure it, or the subframe the hoop mounts too? What would you guys recommend for the once a year overlanding trip to Moab. I don't plan to tackle anything but 'green' trails

 

Just to make sure, which do you mean?

Loop A:


Loop B:


TRD hook:


Not sure anyone outside of Toyota can answer your question with authority. I think the assumption would be that the stamped steel loop "A" will bend first with the two bolts and the subframe being sufficient for the TRD hook and thus *probably* safe to at least GVWR. The rating for loop "B" I don't know but my thought is Toyota expects that to be used for recovery so it's probably just as safe as loop "A" at least.

 

My question was referring to Loop A. I guess my biggest worry during a recovery (besides safety) is the whole front end getting tweaked or destroyed like you see in some Youtube fail videos.

Is there a suitable upgrade for Loop A? I called the dealership for the TRD Hook and was told it would be $220cdn.

 

Yes, it just happens to cost $220cdn. Or one of the earlier linked options for $95-$300(ish).

 

The TRD hook is obviously more substantial than the stamped steel loop, so that's your factory upgrade path.

I had the BPF replacement and it's probably at least a slight improvement over the TRD hook since it uses 3 bolts instead of 2. I also like that it's a closed eye and can accept a shackle pin. I don't care for hooks and especially ones without a gate to keep the strap in place.

In the end I bought an ARB recovery point because it's the only option that assigns a rating. Nothing else, including the TRD hook, tell you a working or maximum load. The BFP gives a value but to me it appears to just be the material strength for the hunk of steel. Whether the rating ARB assigns guarantees the front end isn't going to tweak I have no idea but they supposedly tested it on a mocked section of Tacoma frame and know it's safe to their rating.

 

Loop A is reasonably strong. I wouldn't be trying a dynamic recovery with it but I would certainly pull on it gently-ish to get out of a tough spot. The problem is attaching to it safely. A shackle big enough to be safe won't fit through the hole. I've never seen or heard of anybody figuring out a way to safely attach to this.

Watch the classifieds for that TRD hook. Last I checked they were going for $40-$50 US and were common since so many people yank them in favor of something red, expensive, and unnecessary.

For the rear, a shackle hitch-mount will do you nicely and are cheap.

 

Awesome!! Thank you so everyone for the detailed replies! I'm thinking the SOS version. Surprised that the BPF version doesn't even include a d-ring shackle.