How too?? Trd Supercharger nose seal removal

Anyone know the easy way to remove the nose seal on the trd supercharger while it's still
in the truck without hurting the shaft or housing. I have seen some people struggle getting
it off. Any secret? Mine is leaking and I don't want to take the supercharger off or the nose off. I have heard the nose seal get stuck in there pretty tight.
I have a butt plug in the top so I can suck the supercharger oil out and refill it.
The bottom photo is of a member trying to remove his old seal.
Thanks in advance

 

Well I figured it out, bought a cheap 10.00 puller, then bought two long screws for sheet metal and 2 washers
Drilled two small holes in the seal and used the puller to get the seal out, took 5 minted to do, easy easy

And no harm to the snout housing seal rim area or the shaft

 

Thanks for this. Ingenious.

Is there an HD or high temp nose cone seal out there?

 

Yup I bought 3 just in case, still on the 1st one

The HIGH TEMP seal I bought is for the grey 1st gen, you can call them to see what you need

the Viton high temp seal for the front of snout.
http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm
#SNOUTSEAL-V . . . $12.95

 

Sweet deal! I'll message him to see if they'll fit the 2nd gen blower. Thanks man.

 

Remember when you take the seal out you probably will have oil leaking out the front, so you will probably have to drain the oil and put new oil in also FYI
They make some special grease for the new seal when it gets installed so as not to burn the start up
from friction between the seal and shaft if I remember. Might want to google that.

 

I think if I remember I got some high-temp wheel bearing grease for that and
wiped a small dap on the inside seal lip

 

Thanks for the info. And of course, I just changed the fluid.

 

When you drill the holes in the seal to remove it just dill a super small hole that just starts to go through.
If you drill all the way shaving will get on the other side and the bearing are right there on the other side
of the seal so go really slowly when doing this part and the removal screws need just a small turn to grap the seal as it’s made of steel with a rubber coating To pull off with the puller.

 

When you install the seal make sure you have a LARGE socket the size of the seal that you use as a pressure block against the seal when you pressure fit it so it goes on evenly and that the socket center is larger than the input shaft so it can slid over the snout shaft. good luck

 

Ah. Excellent. Got it.

 

1) get 3 seals high temp from rolling performance just in case one gets messed up or doesn’t seat
correctly.
2) a small puller as shown
3) some sheet metal screws as shown
4) washers for the screws
5) take the new seal to parts store to find the correct size socket to use as your pressure block for the
pressure fit of the seal
6) get a new GATE supercharger belt
7) new oil for supercharger
8) if you have a URD pulley inspect it for wear, they are made of aluminum and wear out and the belt will slip and ride on the ears. If the URD pulley is worn you will see the red paint gone from were the belt rides on the pulley.
You might also see burn belt marks on the inside of the pulley


All done

 

Just curious, I know Gates belts and actually all rubber components are top quality but is there any other reason you're recommending their belt specifically?

 

They last the longest they wear the least amount they're just super super strong belts I think I I had 75000 miles miles on my belt I put a TRD one on the blew up after 20,000 miles

 

The high temp Viton seal is rated at -40 to 400* F and 20,554 rpm

 

So both superchargers for the first gen are the Eaton M90 or M62?

 

Hey John,

How much oil did you lose when you pulled your last snout seal?

Trying to weigh if I just should just pull the blower, but then again the head makes a pretty sturdy work bench for pulling and installing the seal...

 

I jacked the front of the truck up a foot and a half and I don’t believe I lost any,
Maybe just a tiny amount of any For the grey unit

 

It actually very easy to replace, A 20 minutes job at the most,

 

Just finished. Used your screw/washer/pulley trick. Worked great. Used a 1/16" drill bit to predrill and there's a little less than a 5/32" space from the outside of the seal to the bearing surface

Front was elevated on an eight inch inclined driveway. Didn't lose a drop of oil. When I dig up a 4.5mm hex I'll check oil level. I didn't have a full-on leak, just a small amount of dirty film under the snout. I'm at SL so I put back on the stock pulley and figured to replace the seal.

Inner seal lip didn't seat upon assembly, but turning the nose shaft seated it. I'll keep an eye on it. It may have ruined it. But ill put back my 2.1" pulley when im back @ 5500' so I'll obviously see a leak then. Used Mobil 1 syn red race grease on the lip surface.
Thanks for the write-up!