Supercharger , tuning etc ..

I always heard it was a bad idea to boost an engine that had a lot of miles on it? OP said he had 260,000. Is he going to need a rebuild too?

 

Haha, not true, it depends on the condition like anything

 

260k is a lot of miles to add a s/c BUT the 5vze is a tough motor. I would suggest a minimum of a compression check on all cylinders to see the status of your engine. Valve clearance check would be nice as well but you have to remove intake manifold.

 

Is timing the only issue with the older ECM?
Would a piggy-back solve the issue or is getting the newer version the only option?

 

Don’t know, the ECU is the main problem, I don’t have any experience in that area of knowing how to deal with it, call URD, maybe they have something that might work.

 

This is a question I've been seaching an answer to for quite some time. It seems like the common thinking is that the early ECM is a no-no and that' the end of the thought. You can buy an FI-C for the price of the newer ECM but then still have to usually add a 7th or something similar. I think it' time to just start experimenting with the early ECM and see what happens . . .

 

you wouldn't need the 7th if you got the FIC6. You'd just tune the 6 injectors and bump up their size a bit and the fuel pump.

In theroy..yes you shouldn't need to get a newer ECU, the FIC6 should do everything you want.

In practice..no idea. No one has attempted it yet I think.

 

Yeah, that' the impression I get. I'm still on the middle of my N/A build, the supercharger is a little ways down the road. But I want to start tuning as much as possible to learn as much as I can before I commit to the charger. FI/C is what I plan to use, hopefully some time this summer.

 

won't see much of an improvement tuning NA i think. But can get familiar with it anyways.

 

This weekend I finished up some supercharger/7th injector tuning data screen captures. For you guys how get into the numbers these maybe of an interest. For others just another one of my boring ass post, LoL

What your seeing in the video is starting at the top the 7th injectors fuel map. In the lower right is R4 tuning software main page. Just to the left is R4s View / All screen that shows boost pressure and injector duty cycle. I have no idea why it shows 2 injectors were there is only 1. To left of that is OBDII data. I also don't understand why the TPS never goes above 80% ???. And then on the lower right is the INNOVATE wide band O2 read out displayed with there LogWorks software.

This first vid is at just about sea level at 63 ft. I notice max boost is around 7.7 PSI which I guess is okay for a stock 2.37" pulley.
https://youtu.be/ivsahYixkTU

This vid shows climbing the grade going North on the I5 freeway just past Lake Hughes. It's a pretty steep grade that starts at 1200 ft and peaks just about 2800 ft. Notice max boast is at 6.8 PSI.
https://youtu.be/iSECt9sYuYc

The last video is going south on the I5 freeway starting at the Frazier Park on ramp. This is also a steep grade that peaks at 4144 ft. Notice max boast is only 5.4 PSI.
https://youtu.be/jTiC6xmzznk

It's been kind of fun gathering this data but not sure what to do with it. The sea level video has a few 13:1 lean spots but not sure if tuning is needed. I have no pinging and the truck runs great.

If someone is interested I could add a post about the hardware and connections

 

Once you start changing the timing, you will notice the AFR will change also. So it will be a fight between maintaining advance timing and adding fuel to prevent detonation. After you get that nailed down, it's a fight between air temp, and barometric pressure.
What do you think about the R4 software? I think it is crap. Having HP Tuners and tuned my 2005 GTO with it, the user functions in R4 are very lacking and archaic. Also, it would be nice to log the Wideband AFR's average in a histogram to see the adjustments made. I can't wait to get my setup tuned so a can stop using the R4 software.

 

No, I'm not hoping for much, but I'm keen to see what I can do. I feel like the FI/C is a much better option, both now and in the long run, than the maf/cal.

 

Really had not planned to adjust the ignition timing because I very rarely hear any pinging. I am mostly interested in the A/F ratio to make sure the mixture didn't get too rich and toast the catalytic converters. From what I see the tune looks pretty good for the health of the CC. A tribute to Gadget and one of the few well engineered aftermarket kits out there IMO.

You are so right, R4 is old DOS software that needs a complete rewrite. And too think Split Second wants $50 to download it legit...no way.

 

Yes, please post this.

 

Sure, let me get some pictures and a post ready...

 

Okay, so here is a little write up of the hardware and software I’m using to tune my 7th injector kit.

This setup is inspired by a TW member for whom I cannot remember.

My 7th injector controller is installed behind the passenger side kick panel cover. It’s a tight fit so the 9 pin serial connector is pointed towards the floor board.

I use this 90 degree serial adapter.

$8 StarTech.com Right Angle DB9 to DB9 Serial Cable Adapter Type 2 - M/F (GC99MFRA2),Gray

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001S2PYV4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This next part is probably the most important for “grief relief”. It is a RS232 port that uses the FTDI chipset and is true plug and play with Windows 7 and Windows 10. After plugging in the serial port and the driver has installed, go to Device Manager in Windows. Open Ports and determine what Port # Windows assigned to the serial port. It is needed for Split Seconds R4 software.

I had to Dremel mod the connector nuts because of a gender issue.

$16 Tera Grand Premium USB 2.0 to RS232 Serial DB9 Adapter Cable 6 Ft - Supports Windows 1110, 8, 7, Vista, XP, 2000, 98, Linux and Mac - Built with FTDI Chipset and Hex Jack Nuts

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QG83YVC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I used this OBDII Connector to use with OBD Wiz. I use OBDWiz to monitor fuel trims, timing, air temp and a plethora of other things.

$50 OBDLink SX USB: Professional Grade OBD-II Automotive Scan Tool for Windows – DIY Car and Truck Data and Diagnostics

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZWM0R4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OBD Wiz

https://www.scantool.net/obdwiz/



I’m also using INNOVATE MTX/L A/F gauge with Log Works to monitor the wide band air/fuel ratio.

https://www.urdusa.com/innovate-mtx-l-airfuel-ratio-gauge-kit-all-in-one-wsensor/

I installed my O2 sensor in this position. I have since installed a plug now that I am done tuning.


Another USB to RS232 adapter is needed to use Log Works. This allows the A/F ratio to be displayed on the laptop.

https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support.php



Next a Windows laptop and a copy of Split Seconds R4 is needed. I have successfully run R4 on Windows XP, Win 7 and Win 10 64 bit computers. I think most issues with R4 have to do with an incompatible USB to serial port adapter. I used SCREENCAST to record my tuning runs and tuned later. I found it helpful to edit the videos to ½ speed slow mo. The R4s Map B individual cell display pretty quick during a run and made it hard to pause the video in a particular spot.

Looking at the videos the large upper window is R4s Map B. The lower left window is LogWorks A/F display. The next window to the right with orange text is OBDWiz. Next is R4s ‘Display all” and lastly R4s root window.

It is a pretty clunky setup but with practice works fairly well.