Hondo Garage's New Thing

I thought it was Aaron Kaufman from Fast and Loud....

 

Just kidding Graeme!!!

Although i kinda feel like this process would have made for an interesting “reality” TV show....

 

@inv3ctiv3 Any comment

It was mentioned that you could use square tube pieces (maybe 1x3 cut couple inches wide) to offset the opening gas struts. The AL channel accepts t-nuts. I have a foxwing awning and am looking at something like that.

 

Third brake light wiring runs through the extrusion, and down the rear left frame rail into the bed of the truck, harness that comes with the camper is ready to be integrated into the stock system. Lighting harness runs down the front left frame rail into the bed, so its basically wherever you want to run it from there. House battery in the bed, existing wiring harness, etc.

A lot more in terms of photos/content coming this week. Our buddy drew martin is shooting photos in the shop this week while we are working to get a couple of these out the door. Working long days to document and manufacture, and it's all looking really good.

I met Aaron at the Pikes Peak hill climb a couple years back. Couldn't be a nicer guy. Glad I don't seem like the greasy dude to his left

-g

 

I’m gonna give them a try, looks like a great solution! Thanks ace7196

Ross
Ross@gfcengineering.com

 

Not a fan of the crimp-on style and I also prefer to tread lightly on factory wiring

 

Splicing the factory Tow harness should be more of where everyone should want to install it to. That way in the event you no longer have the camper, etc. then you can just replace the tow package part of the harness if it were to be unusable after. Or even a way that just plugged into the factory tow ports with a male/female so it could still be used. Probably a more expensive way, but I plan on using tow harness since it can be replaced easily without rewiring half the truck.

 

FWIW I bought a RTT, used it three times over the course of two months, decided it wasn't for me, and sold it for $1 more than I paid for it. Might be worth trying at least.

 

Curt offers a number of harness adapters that might provide a solution. Here's one.

$31 CURT 55384 Replacement Vehicle-Side Custom USCAR 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-55384-Custom-Wiring-Connector/dp/B0009FJ38Q

 

@rajacat9 That's a great idea. Adding to my list.

 

Exactly what I was envisioning! Thanks for the link! Should just order those along with the camper and alter the wiring as needed. Or add a connector from the GFC that plugs into this. Either way whether GFC sends the harness for lighting, 3rd brake, etc or just gives me open wires for me to DIY it then we should be set. For $21 that is an easy buy to not have to touch the vehicle harness.

 

This harness goes in between the factory harness and the trailer plug, so you tap in without being intrusive (it is all hidden behind the bumper, you'd have to bend down underneath to see the vehicle side harness). Think of this as a tee. You are basically turning the harness behind your trailer connector into a 3-way and you tap into the harness's power. The extra bonus/precaution is that the trailer harness bypasses the ignition, so you can still tap into power with the keys out of the vehicle.

 

As an added bonus the 4-pin connector is what is on all the little u-haul utility trailers in my area. I was anticipating renting them more often for hauling dirt/etc. now vs. removing the GFC and using the bed.

 

Shouldn't need to cut anything on the vehicle. Depending how the GFC is wired when we get them will determine if the harness that we buy will need to be cut. I doubt anything needs to be cut, but probably would just need to add a 4 pin connector to plug into this harness.

 

When I had my canopy installed (I didn't do it myself) - they just spliced the left rear brake light. It was ridiculously easy. I try to minimize cutting into the electrical system but this is the way it's done for 1000's of canopies so I didn't sweat it at all.

For the GFC I'll just take the wire that's there from the canopy brake light and wire it up. Easy peasy.

I was looking into a harness like what is above. It looks to be a really nice product. But, I think I've decided to put a separate battery in the bed (a house battery) and run a wire directly from the existing battery (positive) with a solenoid to keep from discharging the cranking battery. The solenoids are not that expensive (used extensively in boating applications). Then when the truck is running both batteries will be charging but when you shut off the truck - the lights and whatnot in the bed only draw from the isolated house battery.

 

Nothing wrong with some crimp connectors if installed properly. In fact, I would rather have one of those then some in line trailer wiring adding unnecessary complication.

The 3rd brake for my topper is spliced into the brake light wiring right behind the tail light, and has been fine for years.

 

Agreed. I originally planned on splicing, nothing against it. But I don't have a 3 prong plug in the bed and I want one. This enables me to add that with a little finesse and not intruding too far into the harness. I've had many a headache with wiring harnesses. Sounds silly, but I'd rather not mess around with it, plus I can add a feature and hook up a double battery in my engine bay to feed everything while vehicle is off. Two birds, one stone in my eyes. To each his own.

 

For anyone who want to install a second battery this is a must read, long, but very informative. This read is what sold me on the Blue Sea automatic charging relay.
http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/forums/f20/battery-isolators-separators-and-switches-7991.html

 

Well if you run solar the amp draw that is needed to keep your isolator relay closed is a significant amount. Nothing wrong with your setup, just not for everyone and its $179.

 

There's plenty of reasons to run different isolators. Solar support, on/off, manual linking, etc. Just because you don't need that doesn't mean there's "no reason" to purchase a more expensive isolator.