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Fox 2.5 tips

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Yotaholic, Apr 5, 2018.

  1. Apr 14, 2018 at 1:32 PM
    #41
    Yotaholic

    Yotaholic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok just to clarify, I CAN loosen the keeper nut while the coilovers are off the vehicle to move it outward?
     
  2. Apr 14, 2018 at 3:04 PM
    #42
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Yup done it a ton of times
     
  3. Apr 14, 2018 at 4:18 PM
    #43
    Yotaholic

    Yotaholic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! Worked perfectly. I just turned the keeper nut outwards for now, will adjust my height after I get the rear done
     
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  4. Apr 14, 2018 at 7:23 PM
    #44
    Biscuits

    Biscuits Thorny Crown of Entropy

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    Swiggity swangin' biggity bangin'
    This is exactly what I experienced. Had to take the coilovers to an offroad shop that used a spring compressor to compress the spring and adjust the collar.

    Glad you got it sorted out! :thumbsup:
     
  5. Apr 14, 2018 at 8:56 PM
    #45
    Scamilton

    Scamilton Nerf Herder

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    BAMF recessed grille, tailgate inserts, Rokblokz mud flaps, Windows tinted, matte black vinyl on rocker panels, badge removal, Fox front 2.5 with resi, Fox 2.0 with resi rear, LR UCAs, matte bronze FN Pro wheels, 285 70 r17 duratracs, RCI Offroad sliders with fill plates, rigid ditch lights, Sherpa Grand Tetonroof rack, RCI bed rack... Soon: full armor, roof top tent...
    Just a heads up for everyone that hasn't installed yet.

    Loosen the screw on the adjustment collar. Put the coil overs on your truck. Once they're installed, spin the adjustment collar to whichever direction you choose, so that the screw is accessible once they're actually on the truck. Count your threads, and match each side then tighten them up.

    Now you don't have to take the coil overs off to make height adjustments.
     
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  6. Apr 14, 2018 at 10:02 PM
    #46
    RangerComa

    RangerComa 58008

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    list is growing fast
    same thing happened to me. I think I tried to warn you bout that... prolly too late now? but if you're still in pause, loosen the set screw and turn that thing 180 before you bolt it in. or loosen the set screw, install the coil and torque it down, then turn the collar to desired height and tighten the set screw.
     
  7. Apr 14, 2018 at 10:03 PM
    #47
    RangerComa

    RangerComa 58008

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    yes
     
  8. Apr 14, 2018 at 10:03 PM
    #48
    RangerComa

    RangerComa 58008

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    well i'm late to the party. glad you got it worked out. Now go break em in and report back!
     
  9. Apr 15, 2018 at 12:08 AM
    #49
    drewhaus

    drewhaus Well-Known Member

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    Plan on doing a similar install in a few weeks, excited for UCA bolt hell.
     
  10. Apr 15, 2018 at 1:39 AM
    #50
    Yotaholic

    Yotaholic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Finished my install, its too late for pictures right now. I took it on a test drive down a pothole filled dirt road and noticed some rubbing when hitting deep bumps. Is this likely an alignment issue? Currently running 265 k02.

    Edit:
    UCA bolt hell is right.....
     
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  11. Apr 15, 2018 at 7:53 AM
    #51
    RangerComa

    RangerComa 58008

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    Yes, alignment needed. Bump your caster to at least 2.5 and you should be golden.
     
  12. Apr 16, 2018 at 6:30 PM
    #52
    MarvinL

    MarvinL Well-Known Member

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    how much lift did you guys get out of the box? I have 16 threads showing and it gave me a 1.9" lift
     
  13. Apr 16, 2018 at 8:19 PM
    #53
    Yotaholic

    Yotaholic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Waiting for alignment. I haven’t taken fender to hub measurements but after install my front end looked leveled, then settled to a slight rake. I’m going to leave it at preset height until i upgrade to bigger tires.

    9A98089D-C970-4E7C-ACDD-C18B2AF19319.jpg
     
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  14. Apr 16, 2018 at 8:33 PM
    #54
    drewhaus

    drewhaus Well-Known Member

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    What size tires are on right now? Truck looks awesome as is.
     
  15. Apr 16, 2018 at 8:35 PM
    #55
    Yotaholic

    Yotaholic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    265/70/17 K02 on TRD SEMA. My original plan was to set the front at 2” but it looks perfect to me as is. Will definately crank them up to 2.5” when I upgrade to 285’s.
     
  16. Apr 17, 2018 at 10:48 AM
    #56
    Yotaholic

    Yotaholic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    @RangerComa
    I had my alignment done, caster is at 2.7/2.8 and am still getting the same rub when I hit bumps. I noticed its more of a metal-to-metal contact sound rather than tire rub. I feel like I may have installed the swayback relocation spacer backwards, which way do you have yours installed?
     
  17. Apr 17, 2018 at 12:12 PM
    #57
    MarvinL

    MarvinL Well-Known Member

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    Do you have a clanking sound? metal to metal?, I am hearing a sound but it is more of a squeak or creak, when going over bumps slowly. I still can't pinpoint what it is... maybe its normal? I have not notice my sway bar hitting the coils.
     
  18. Apr 17, 2018 at 12:25 PM
    #58
    Jibbs

    Jibbs "When in doubt, throttle out!"

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    Whoooooooshchchch
    There's a critical thing you need to make sure of with the 2.0 rears w/resi's- If the hose is touching your shock mount at all, it will break off eventually, or start leaking all your fluid out. My 2.0s are currently at Fox getting repaired (allegedly, their service has been fucking awful so far) because of this.

    Without a 90 degree connector on that hose, I think the only thing to do is to grind off enough of the mount that it clears. Terrible design oversight for a 'bolt on' product, and it isn't mentioned in the install directions at all.
     
  19. Apr 17, 2018 at 12:49 PM
    #59
    RangerComa

    RangerComa 58008

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    Yes. If you use the billet clamp for your resi, make sure the whole thing clears the axle, brake lines, shock mount, etc at full stuff and extension.
     
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  20. Apr 17, 2018 at 12:54 PM
    #60
    RangerComa

    RangerComa 58008

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    Look for shiny spots on paint. That'll indicate any kind of rubbing.

    I had a metal to metal clank/creak sound. It was my sway bar contacting my skid plate. It was the oem skid plate - not the pro one. The swaybar relocation bracket pushes the swaybar down and away from your coils, but it pushes it into the skid when it articulates. Easy visual inspection to see if there is clearance. My solution was to pull the skid and support bars for the skid, and REINSTALL the skid with washers acting as spacers between the skid and the frame. That gave enough clearance for the swaybar.
     
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