2016 BBP audio build

I have kicker 6x9’s and kicker 6 1/2’s.

 

For those of you who ran your power cable through the firewall directly behind the battery, how did you get a good seal on the boot around the new hole afterwards? The rubber is pretty flimsy and I could see this being a concern not having a good seal here

 

I poked a hole in the side of the boot and fished wire there so the hole just sealed itself once wire was in. I wouldnt give it too much concern

 

Took the words out of my head @Friedtacolover. I have installed dozens of audio systems in my life and never once had an issue with the rubber boot not sealing. @Uleth, don't worry about it.

 

A little layer of silicone can easily seal any concerns

 

This is a great thread, ton of great info.

Could I tap into the blue and grey wire with T-Taps like I did with the green and red wire and power the door speaker that way as opposed to routing new speaker wire through the door grommet? The speakers came with the Metra adapter.

The stereo will be installed with the speed harness from this thread, not sure where else these wires may go other than the tweeter.

 

If you're certain that it's the correct wires, you probably could it that way as long as you're not planning to put some serious power through those wires (I don't remember what guage the stock speaker wires were). Also, I would definitely recommend cutting/splicing the wires instead of using the t-taps in this instance.

 

Thanks. I took your advice and spliced the wire instead of tapping it, figured I was being lazy enough not running it.

I determined polarity by looking at the speaker adapter here and noting the positive wire is centered in the harness. I cheated and watched the OEM Audio video to see the color for the driver side.

 

Got this from Mr Marv for my build.

 

Beautiful work as usual @Mr Marv

 

Im using an illusion audio c10 slim sub with audiofrog gb series 3 way active for the front

 

Got same box. Second time ive used him.

 

@Man of Steel TRD, where did you source the carpet for the back wall? Looking to do the same. Thank you!

 

It's listed below but here is the link.
Absolute C10BK 10-Feet Long/4-Feet Wide Black Carpet for Speaker Sub Box Carpet rv Truck Car Trunk Liner

$40 Absolute C10BK 10-Feet Long/4-Feet Wide Black Carpet for Speaker Sub Box Carpet rv Truck Car Trunk Liner

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058OR1YG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XsC6Ab7M6CGTC

 

Thank you for the link!

Did you use spray adhesive for it and then attached it to the wall?

 

No problem at all.

Yeah I started from the top and worked my way down. Make sure to take everything off back there that you don't want glue on. The spray glue gets everywhere.

 

awesome!! thanks so much for the help!

 

Can someone tell me if I have this wired correct? I'm going to be running 2 sets of 9 wire. I have these wires left over. One is power ant, amp turn on, and dimmer ground. Do I have all the wires setup correctly for my setup?

 

need some help guys. im confused how you guys are running a single 9 wire instead of dual? Maybe im not thinking correct, but wouldnt you have input from the female terminals (left above) to LOC, then output from amp running through the male connectors (right above) back to the factory connections.

 

Sorry I haven't responded to your posts until now @paxton306 . You run the signal coming OUT of the head unit to your LOC or signal processor, then you run RCAS to your amp/amps from the LOC or signal processor, then from the amp you run speaker wire directly you your speakers in the doors. No need to run a 9 wire back to the head unit to use the stock wires to get the amplified signal to your door speakers. The 9 wire will run off the male end of the harness to your LOC or signal processor.