E Locker Wiring Installation

So pin 1 is connected to the detection switch at the locker. It is also connected to the light in the dash. I would check for a short to ground on that wire. Start at the plug by the kick panel and see if you have continuity between that pin and vehicle ground. Make sure you have the negative lead on a good ground.

 

Here is the Factory Service Manual section that shows you how to diagnose the system.

 

Will do, just waiting for my new multimeter in the mail.

Awesome info NZ! You'll make an electrician out of me yet. This is a fantastic learning experience, I really appreciate it. As I said I'm waiting on my multimeter, hopefully tomorrow or Saturday. I also ordered a couple more resistors as the repair guy only had one of that size. He works in a small shop that repairs certain machines and he didn't have a stock of such small resistors. I want him to repair the other board as a spare. Anyways...I'll update with meter readings in the not to distant future.

On a side note the reared came with new brakes and drums. Nice! Problem is somehow at the yard motor oil got spilled onto and into the right drum. Can't imagine how it happened but I noticed it when loading it into the back of my truck at the yard. Ruined the pads so I'll replace. At least it seems the PO took care of his/her rig.

 

Make sure it's not gear oil that's leaking past the seal. Pull the ABS sensor or cover and see if there is gear oil in there. If there is, you need to replace the axle seal.

 

And we're back. So I'm having a problem posting replies on my computer for last couple of days. I don't get the typing box at the bottom of the thread. So I'm using my phone now. Anyways....

Got my multi meter and took the following measurement. With the key off at the ECU plug, pin 1-20ohms, pin 5- 6ohms, pin 7-0ohms all showed continuity. All the rest OL (open line). Key on pins 1, 5, 7, 8 and 10 all show 0ohms with the rest OL.

At the switch plug blk/red-6ohms, green/red-<1ohm, yellow/green-3ohms, red/blk(blue?)-OL. With the key on the #s are 0ohms, 20ohms, 20ohms, OL respectively.

So pin 1 is not short?

 

0 ohms means continuity. You said that 1, 5, 7, 8, and 10 have 0 ohms? to ground?

Edit: did you follow the testing procedure on page 2 of the inspection document I posted? Check those values against what you read on your meter. Most of them are reading voltages and not ohms.

 

Yes 1,5,7,8 and10 all show 0ohms to body ground.

I tested for voltage with key on as described on the upper half of page 2. Again the locker is not installed so some of the things I could not perform because the indicator light is n/a at this time. So all values are key on.

Pins 2&3 M1-M2=OL(because not hooked up to actuator) I did test for voltage initially and it was cycling between 0 to 200mV
Pin 7 GND=continuity
Pin 10 SPD=did not perform test
Pin 5 IG=12.2V
Pin 1 RLP=12.2V
Pin 8 4WD=10.25V
Pin 4 R=switch on 12V, off 0V

I test pin 1 with switch on and reading stayed the same, 12V

Everything seems cool I think. If I need to test SPD now for our purposes let me know.

 

Ok new data. As I was reading through the aforementioned FSM testing procedure I landed on 3 (b) page 3. The Diff. lock control switch continuity. OL.... no continuity! That's with switch on and off. I think this might have something to do with my problem. I'm just not sure exactly how. It's late. I'm going to sleep on it. I'm going to look over that 03 Rear Diff Lock wiring diagram NZ supplied in post #34.

 

Hang on. When I tested pin 4 on the factory ECU plug with the diff lock control switch in both the on and off position and the key on it showed 12V with switch on and 0V with switch off. How could that be if there is no continuity at switch terminals?

 

Just retested switch terminals. There is continuity with switch on, albeit staticky at times. Ohm reading jumping around. I took burnt ECU motherboard and plugged it in and made some readings off the back at pins as they go to board.

Voltage
So, key on, with switch off pins 1,5,8 and10 all have 10-12V. The rest have mV readings. With switch on the only thing that changes is pin 4 now has 10-12V reading.

Continuity
Key off switch off pins 1,2,3,5 and 7 have continuity, the rest OL. Key off switch on same but pin 4 gets continuity.

Now key on switch off everything looses continuity but it's sketchy. Some continuity returns. This is on the continuity tone setting of multimeter. On ohm setting the only OLs are pins 6 and 9. All the rest start OL on contact of probe but then jump to ohm reading back and forth. All very small except pins 2 and 7 with 10 ohms.

Now key on switch on pins 6 and 9 remain OL. PIN 2 goes to 14 ohms. The rest do that sketchy bounce between OL and minimal ohms.

 

Can you clamp your meter to a specific wire and then shake the harness to see if anything changes?

 

Will do but I am out of town until Wednesday. So you're talking about a current sensing clamp that some multimeters have? I don't have that type of meter. So do you want amperage measures, specifically faults? If so I can jerry rig it so my hand will be free to manipulate the harness set up. Should I leave the ECU plugged in while doing this? Or do I need a clamp type meter? A lot of questions. But curious minds want to know. lol Again, really appreciate your tutelage NZ.

 

I just meant use an alligator clip instead of a probe.

I would just measure voltage or continuity on wires that you think could be the issue. Shake the whole harness and watch for fluctuations. If you have one wire that changes when you move the harness, then that is your problem wire.

 

So I'll clip it to the lead exiting the back of the ECU, leaving it plugged in. I'll get that next week. Thanks

 

Did you ever get this figured out? I'm going through the EXACT same scenario. 2003 Tacoma, partially pre wired with the switch and ecu plugs from the factory. I plug in the elocker ecu, hit the diff lock button and it burns that same resistor. I've burned two different computers.

 

Can I get a PIN OUT for the BN7 connector? I am making one OEM harness out of two from the salvage yard, one had the wires cut and the other did not have the E-locker, but I need the connectors for the gas pump and the evap canister connections. Also do you have the part numbers for the repair wires and pins for the BN7?

 

The 03 diagram has the PIN numbers. Look for the parts labeled BN7 on the wires. There’s a number next to each one that corresponds to the pins. That diagram won’t have all the pins, only the ones related to the elocker. You’d have to reference multiple other diagrams for the other pins.

 

I found it, just need to verify the wires colors, it's all there E-Locker, ABS, Fuel Pump, EVAP, Tail Lights!

 

Do u have a link for this?