Long Travel BS Thread

5/8", I got a 4" bolt and it fit almost perfect. Except the Grade 8 bolt head doesn't fit into the uniball like the 12 point does. So i'll have to make sure to replace that asap

Yeah. Will be upgrading someday for a larger kit with built in Uniball

 

Been searching for awhile and found a few photos but not much. Im wanting to swap to either chevy 63 or deaver 62 leafs in the rear, I understand what that takes to make happen. But i want to mount the shocks still under the bed, dont want to cut my bed up. Ive seen a few set ups under the bed and some with new shock mounts in the wheel well but not many detailed photos. Also ive head I probably will need to do 12” shakles mounted on top the frame rail but haven’t seen any photos showing that set up. Not looking for crazy amounts of travel just more then stock

 

damn wish i was local for the glass.

 

Those of you that have made your own fender liners. How did you attach them. I've found a few posts where people talk about what material they made the liners out of, but nobody seems to mention how they went about actually attaching them. I'll be installing my fiberglass this weekend and was thinking about trying to make liners using shower pan liner material.

 

@concentric_killa his build has a solid process for attachment. Pretty much use the offset bolt clip pieces you can find at Home Depot.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...el-picture-extravaganza.439830/#post-12771628

I asked about them awhile back in a PM. This is what he said:

As for the fender skirts, they are made out of .090" abs. I found a company here in salt lake and I bought a 4'x8' sheet for around $50.
I made templates out of poster board. I bought these things called clip nuts? They are literally a clip with a nut coincident with the center of the clip (I'll have to find a pic). So I just used the inner lip of my Glassworks fenders and drilled holes at an equal distance. I also used some factory holes near the engine compartment that the stock liners used. My fenders are line-xed so the inner fiberglass lip is a little stronger over just the gel coated glass.
The abs is your best bet. It is rigid as well as being flexible enough not to need a heat gun to install.

I also went to Napa And bought one truck mud flap for $15 and made mud flaps for the front. This reduced the amount of mud, snow, rocks that are kicked up onto my side windows.

 

Thanks guys. I've seen @concentric_killa's build page in the past, but it wasn't in my recent searches. I was thinking that clip nuts would do the trick. The lip on the fiberglass isn't very wide, though, so I wasn't sure how strong it would be.

 

That's my same concern with my glass as I don't think I have that great of a lip.

 

Damn man talk about a hell of a bummer to deal with. I was under the impression that the burg kit had integrated uniballs on the LCAs like the TC race ones do? Either way man, def a wake up for everyone im sure.

What kit are you looking to go to after the burg? Solo?

 

Was that from topping/bottoming out without properly setup bumps/straps? Or just fatigue?

 

how will a kit with a built in uniball make any difference when you snapped the uniball bolt?

or am i misunderstanding and you broke the adapter bolt?

 

the adapter bolt.

looks oem. And if those are like 1st gen LBJ bolts..supposed to be a one time use bolt.

 

Camburg uses that dumb adapter. I would assume possibly loose, maybe rusty and popped after enough pressure.

 

Aye. I thought they had a uniball integrated set now a days, but that clears that up.

 

but the broken bolt pictured is the 12pt uniball bolt. not the adaptor bolts.

my allpoo kit is the same. maybe ill work on installing it next week

 

well fuck if i know haha

 

2nd gen adapter bolts are 12 pt, possibly F911 or that is an upgrade, I can't remember

 

The bolt pictured (post 73661) that broke has a nut on it. The adapter that goes from that adapter to knuckle doesn't take a nut and is not in the picture above. It looks like the uniball to arm bolt is the one that broke.

 

The adapter to knuckle bolt is an allen bolt.

 

Was contemplating the differences in stresses myself...here are the two styles side by side. In both set ups the bolt goes through the uniball and a mis alignment so it really seems like a tomatoe - tomato difference ?

The LBJ adapt that Camburg uses is really no different than the OE LBJ adapt it just replaces the OE one although it relocated over the LCA vs under.

However one thing I just noticed ...anyone remember all of that Dirt King verbal abuse about using a small 1/4" spacer between the stock LBJ and the spindle for CV boot clearance on 4WD's and how some folks jumped all over how they thought it was dangerous and a bad design etc well...LO fkn L ...take a look at the size of spacer the Camburg ( and TC kits ) with the LBJ adapts use !