PC3coyote's 2017 Tacoma Build

GruntledCitizen · Apr 18, 2018

This is one slick looking truck

Natnewt · Apr 19, 2018

david.laumeyer said: ↑

Diggin your BBP Taco!!! I just got the bed decals in all black as well but whats the trick to removing the stock bed decals?
Click to expand...

Where did you get them?

Natnewt · Apr 19, 2018

Nevermind, I combed the thread and finally found the answer

The next question... did you buy PRO headlights or tint them out yourself?

TACOmobbin · Apr 19, 2018

Wow, this thing is killer! Nice truck!

patdeezy · Apr 19, 2018

damn super nice build!

question, what lightbar did you end up going with in your SSO bumper? sorry, I'm sure you posted that info somewhere

pc3coyote · May 20, 2018

Hi friends!

Sorry for the delay in responses. Life has been hectic as we moved from Florida to California in the past two months. The great part was that we got to drive the truck the entire way and do some exploring and light offroading along the way. Highlights were definitely Big Bend in Texas and Sedona in Arizona. Below is a few photos from Big Bend.

Now that we are finally settled here, I was able to get back to mods. I worked on my rock lights and reverse lights today. Big thanks to @DSIM for all of the help with my annoying questions and for coming up with a great product (his dome light harness). My LED rock lights are now activated by a physical switch AND the dome light signal (approaching vehicle, unlocking vehicle, opening doors, etc) along with my LED reverse lights which are now activated by a physical switch AND my stock reverse signal. I decided to compile all of my electrical write-ups in one post and clean it up. That can be found here. OP in this build page has been updated as well.

pwalnut said: ↑

Hello, friends!

I decided to compile all of my electrical write-ups in one thread.

This write-up includes:

LED front light bar

activated by physical switch

LED rock lights

activated by physical switch AND dome light signal (approaching vehicle, unlocking vehicle, opening doors, etc)

LED reverse lights

activated by physical switch AND stock reverse signal

LED footwell lights

activated by rock lights physical switch AND dome light signal (approaching vehicle, unlocking vehicle, opening doors, etc)

I also have @mesojdm LED map and dome lights with the door trigger disconnected for the dome light (allows for independent control of the dome light with the switch without dome light coming on with the doors).

Note: this is how I did it and I'm not the best electrically. It seemed like the most logical way but there could definitely be better approaches.

Huge thanks to @DSIM for coming up with a great product (referenced below in rock lights section) and for all of the help answering my relentless questions. Daniel is a great dude!

Parts List

Front light bar

Light bar of your choice (I initially used a

MICTUNING 32" 180W Combo Led Light Bar - 13200 Lumen, 6000-6200K Crystal White, Waterproof for Off-road Jeep ATV UTV SUV Truck Boat

30" double row MicTuning light bar and then switched to a 20" single row Heise light bar in my @SouthernStyleOffRoad bumper)

$10 MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch

MicTuning wiring harness

Custom CH4x4 blue LED push switch (could also use a

MICTUNING M0810-T-LLBB LED Push Switch with Connector Wire Kit for Toyota - LED LIGHT BAR Symbol -Blue

MicTuning blue LED push switch)

@ragofabrication (or other aftermarker bumper depending on how you're mounting it)

Rock lights

Rock lights of your choice (I used

4 Pods LED Rock Lights, Ampper Waterproof LED Neon Underglow Light for Car Truck ATV UTV SUV Offroad Boat Underbody Glow Trail Rig Lamp (White)

8 Ampper white rock lights)

4 Lead LED Rock Lights Wiring Harness, Ampper LED Wiring Harness for LED Pods and Work Lights with Fuse 12V 40A Relay Waterproof On Off Rocker Switch

4-lead Ampper wiring harness

Custom CH4x4 blue LED push switch

@DSIM dome light harness (great product that was exactly what I was looking for and works exactly as intended)

Reverse lights

Reverse lights of your choice (I used

$152 RIGID INDUSTRIES Ignite Backup Kit Black Flood Flush Mount: Mounting Accessories For Offroad Use

2 Rigid Ignite flush mount diffused)

$10 MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch

Mictuning wiring harness

Custom CH4x4 blue LED push switch

Diode

Footwell lights

Footwell lights of your choice (I used

$30 LEDGlow 4pc Red LED Interior Footwell Underdash Neon Lighting Kit for Cars & Trucks - 7 Unique Patterns - Music Mode - 8 Brightness Levels - Auto Illumination - Includes Cigarette Power Adapter

LEDGlow red 4pc kit under dash lighting kit - they have other colors and also multicolor)

Extras

@ragofabrication

@forty2 3-switch black narrow switch plate (great if you're adding several lights and there's also a 2-switch version, you can skip this and use the blank location if you're only installing one light and depending on your model of truck)

Consumables

Good quality electrical tape

$10 TYUMEN 40FT 18 Gauge 2pin 2 Color Red Black Cable Hookup Electrical LED Strips Extension Wire 12V/24V DC Cable, 18AWG Flexible Wire Extension Cord for Ribbon Lamp Tape Lighting

18AWG 2-pin wire

Black spray paint (whichever)

Tools

10mm, 12mm, 14mm deep sockets

5mm allen key (I think)

Flat head and phillips screw drivers

Trim removal tool

Wire crimper

Wire stripper/cutter

Lighter

Drill with various size bits

Dremel with cutting disk

Soldering iron and solder

Wiring Diagrams

Front Light Bar

Rock Lights

Reverse Lights

Footwell Lights

@DSIM Dome Light Harness

Switches

Front Light Bar

Instructions

Leave the main connections (battery positive and ground) connections for the end once you have all your wires routed as a precaution. Always start with negative battery terminal disconnected (use a 10mm socket) and cover terminal with a rag so it can't make contact.

Remove the grill. Use the phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws and the flat head screwdriver to remove the two plastic tab screws. Grab the upper supports and pull straight out. The plastic tabs will come out.

Remove the wind deflectors on each side. Use the flat head screwdriver to remove the single plastic tab screw on each side.

Remove the two transmission cooler bolts by using the 12mm deep socket. Push the transmission cooler back to make it easier to slide the LED light bar in.

Remove the two nuts on each of the outer sides of each crash bar with the 14mm deep socket. Leave the inner bolts alone. Install only the driver side light bar bracket but only hand-tighten the nuts.

Slide in the light bar from the passenger side to the driver side. Let it rest on the crash bars. Install the passenger side bracket and hand-tighten the nuts. Use the smaller bolts that came with the light bar to attach the light bar to the brackets with a 5mm allen key. I also added two hardened washers (one on each side) but they likely aren’t needed. You may need a second person to hold the light bar as you bolt the light bar to the bracket so that you can lean down to see through the grill to line up the bolts and holes. Ensure that the light bar is pulled all the way forward and rotated to face straight out.

Mount the relay to the bracket by the battery by temporarily removing the bolt with a 10mm socket.

Cut off the spade terminals from the white and black wires from the harness, cut it shorter to length, and use the 14 AWG butt connectors to connect it to the red and black light bar wires (white to red, black to black). Use electrical tape over the connectors. Use electrical tape over the second set of white and black wires from the harness or cut them off if you don't plan to use them (they are for a second light bar).

Temporarily run the two red terminals to the positive battery terminal and the two black terminals to the ground to the right of the relay to test the light bar. Use the attached switch. If it works, disconnect the terminals. If it doesn’t, troubleshoot. The battery terminal requires a12mm socket and the ground requires a 10mm socket.

Reinstall the transmission cooler

Cut off small corners of the wind deflectors with a dremel and then reinstall. This is so that it doesn’t hit the light bar.

Zip tie the wire going from the light bar to the relay in various places to keep it out of the way. There are plenty of places to attach too.

Follow @moe2o4 ’s guide to disassemble the dash panels. Use trim removal tool, 10mm socket, and phillips screwdriver to remove three trim pieces on driver side.

If you're only installing one switch: Remove the blank switch place-holder from the far right. It unclips from the back and pushes to the front.

If you're installing multiple switches: Remove the cubby with a screwdriver.. It unscrews from the back. Screw in the new switch holder.

Cut off the switch from the harness. Cut off a straight piece of a metal hangar. Use the hanger wire to poke a hole in the rubber firewall. Use electrical tape to tape the red, white, and black wires coming from the relay to the hanger. Rub a dab of dish soap over the taped area of the hangar and then pull it through from the interior by pulling on the end of the hangar.

Wire the switch to the harness wires by using the 20 AWG butt connectors. Red harness wire goes to the green switch wire, white harness wire goes to the red 1 (first after green) switch wire, black harness wire goes to the black switch wire. After that, use the 20 AWG quick splice to connect the red 2 (second after green, first from black) switch wire to the green cargo wire (first wire on the first switch from the left). After you connect everything, wrap all the connects in electrical tape.

Reconnect the two two red terminals to the positive battery terminal and the two black terminals to the ground to test the light bar. By default, nothing is lit up. The switch text LED should light up when the interior lights are on. The switch light bar LED should come on when pressed. Test the new switch to make sure it works, that the lighter comes on, and the switch light bar LED should also light up. If it works, proceed. If it doesn’t, troubleshoot.

Ziptie the extra slack going from the relay to the firewall, from the firewall to the battery positive terminal, and from the firewall to the ground terminal. Reinstall the dash panels. Reinstall the grill.

Photos

Light bar only:

Lows and fogs only:

Lows, fogs, and light bar:

Lows, highs, fogs, and light bar:

Rock Lights

Instructions

Engine bay wiring

Always start with negative battery terminal disconnected (use a 10mm socket) and cover terminal with a rag so it can't make contact.

Run two power wires and two ground wires (for relay and switch) to battery and ground in side of engine bay using 12mm and 10mm socket respectively. Trim to right lengths utilizing 18AWG wire and butt connectors (heat shrunk with lighter, wrapped in electrical tape) as needed. Use wire loom (electrical tape on ends) over wires

Cut off switch. Use a sharp object (coat hanger, shish kabob stick, etc) to poke a hole in the rubber boot, with the switch wire electrical taped to it, to run the switch wire into the cab. Use wire loom to cover wire

Switch placement and wiring

Follow @moe2o4 ’s guide to disassemble the dash panels. Use trim removal tool, 10mm socket, and phillips screwdriver to remove three trim pieces on driver side.

If you're only installing one switch: Remove the blank switch place-holder from the far right. It unclips from the back and pushes to the front.

If you're installing multiple switches: Remove the cubby with a screwdriver.. It unscrews from the back. Screw in the new switch holder.

Push in switches

Use butt connectors (and electrical tape) to connect switch wires to switch

Use quick splice connector (and electrical tape) to connect switch wire to another switch wire for illumination

If you want the rock lights triggered by the dome light signal in addition to the physical switch (approaching vehicle, unlocking vehicle, opening doors, etc

Follow this Toyota guide on removing the a-pillar cover

Ziptie @DSIM relay to one of the factory harnesses

Follow @Volksparts guide on wiring in the @DSIM black wire. Feed @DSIM black wire up behind dash towards a-pillar and use quick splice connector to connect @DSIM black wire to yellow a-pillar wire

Use quick splice connectors to connect @DSIM red wire to switch green wire and @DSIM yellow wire to switch red 1 wire

Reassemble

Lights placement

Middle four lights were placed under each door, rear two lights were under the bumper, all were ziptied to the frame

Front two lights were under the front bumper. I made a paper template of the light by tracing it and used that to drill three holes (two mounting bolts and wire) into the flimsy plastic in the front of the truck under the bumper in front of the wheel well. I then mounted the lights using the two supplied bolts. I accessed the inside of the wheel well to secure the 10mm nut from the wheel well using the 10mm socket to hold the nut and the 5mm alley key to tighted the bolt. You access the wheel well by removing one 10mm bolt with the 10mm socket and one push screw with a flathead screwdriver from inside the wheel well and them pull the plastic aside.

Lights wiring

There are two wires from the relay for each side, each with two leads

Run one wire across back of engine bay facing cab ziptieing to existing harness as you go

Cut off wiring harness leads. Connect additional wire to one of the harness wire leads with butt connectors (and electrical tape, wrapped in wire loom) and run straight down to under truck

Run wire to first light (in wire loom) at the passenger front door ziptieing to existing harness as you go

Three way splice with two butt connectors (one for red positive wire and one for black negative wire). One side has the incoming wire. Other side has rock light wire twisted together with additional wire. I'd strip the wire for both the rock light and outgoing wire and then twist the strands together (do that for both red and black wires respectively). Wrap in electrical tape and then put in wire loom

Repeat above for passenger rear door, passenger rear bumper, driver rear bumper, driver rear door, driver front door (daisy chaining as you go with three way splice at each light, covering wire in wire loom as you go, ziptieing to existing harness as you go)

For the passenger front bumper, connect additional wire (with butt connectors) to the other lead from where you ran across the engine and where you ran the one lead down to under the truck, wrap in wire loom, and fish the wire down to the small opening in the bumper from behind the headlights. Connect the light to the wire and then push all of the extra wire back into the bumper

For the driver front bumper, you can now use the other primary wire coming from the relay. We'll only need the long lead so you can either cut off the extra one in the middle or just cover it electrical tape. Repeat process above for fishing the wire and connecting the light

@DSIM dome light harness

Photos

Rear Lights

Instructions

Same as rock lights with the exception of drilling into the plastic part of the rear bumper with a 1.75" hole saw for the main hole for the light and 3/16" drill bit for the mount screw holes

If you want the new reverse lights to come on with stock reverse signal in addition to physical switch

Follow this EAA guide on how to solder a diode to 2-3 ft of wire and then put wire assembly inside wire loom

Use quick splice connector to connect one end of new wire to middle white wire of trailer harness and other end of new wire to red positive wire of wire leading to the reverse lights

Photos

Footwell Lights

Instructions

Always start with negative battery terminal disconnected (use a 10mm socket) and cover terminal with a rag so it can't make contact.

Follow @moe2o4 ’s guide to disassemble the dash panels. Use trim removal tool, 10mm socket, and phillips screwdriver to remove three trim pieces on driver side.

If your LEDs have a control box, mount it in desired location. I mounted mine using the supplied double-sided tape in the driver footwell area in the bottom right corner.

Use a quick splice connector to connect the red positive wire from the LED control box to the yellow @DSIM wire. I also added extra electrical tape around the plastic connectors with the fuse to ensure it doesn't come disconnected.

Use a quick splice connector to connect the black negative wire from the LED control box to the black wire from the rock light CH4x4 switch.

Pass two of the light bars through the small hole of the carpet under the console to the passenger side.

Run two of the light bars (one for each side) to under the seats while tucking the extra wire up and under the side of the wire console.

Secure light bars in desired locations using zipties and/or double-sided tape. I mounted mine at:

Driver side front: under dash with double-sided tape

Passenger side front: under dash with zipties using holes already in dash

Driver side rear: under front of driver seat using zipties around metal support bar

Passenger side rear: under front of passenger seat using zipties around metal support bar

Photos

Switches

Photos

Three-switch option

1-switch option

Off:

Interior lights on:

Interior lights on, light bar on:

Relay Holder

Instructions

This is only if your relays don't have the empty tab slot on the back to install onto the relay holder

Drill three holes into relay holder tabs to mount relays with zipties. If you buy relays from an auto parts store, they'll have a slot where the relay holder tabs will slide in. Since I used premade harnesses, they didn't have this

Spray paint over the new holes to avoid rust

Mount relay holder in engine bay

Install relays on relay holder with zipties through hole in the relay and new holes in the relay holder

Map and Dome Lights

For info on my map and dome lights, see my write-up here.
Click to expand...

Responses:

Natnewt said: ↑

The black bed decals, where did you get them!
Click to expand...

$20 (2x) TRD 4x4 SPORT Toyota Tacoma 2016 Matte Black Vinyl Decals StickerseBay (I have matte black but they also have gloss and also have it with other text besides Sport)

Capt Tacoma said: ↑

Do you not have mud-flaps because of rubbing?
Click to expand...

No, I don't have them because I don't like the look

GruntledCitizen said: ↑

This is one slick looking truck
Click to expand...

Thanks, I appreciate it!

Natnewt said: ↑

Nevermind, I combed the thread and finally found the answer

The next question... did you buy PRO headlights or tint them out yourself?
Click to expand...

They are not OEM Pro lights, they are OEM TRD lights with the black headlight mod (BHLM) done. I bought them on Craigslist. I traded a guy locally for my stock lights plus cash in exchange for his BHLM headlights. He wanted the OEMassive lights. He originally had a friend from OSSdeisgns out of Miami, FL do the BHLM lights. They typically do high-end BMW lights. There are a few vendors that do BHLM as a service including @kustom54lighting, @InSight Retrofits, and others. They can provide more info on what they offer and the process.

TACOmobbin said: ↑

Wow, this thing is killer! Nice truck!
Click to expand...

Thanks! I appreciate it. She's my baby.

patdeezy said: ↑

damn super nice build!

question, what lightbar did you end up going with in your SSO bumper? sorry, I'm sure you posted that info somewhere
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I went with a 20" single row Heise lightbar directly from @SouthernStyleOffRoad. There's info about it in the first original post of this build thread. I try to keep all info current in that first post.

matt636 · May 10, 2018

welcome back!

ChoyotaIII · May 10, 2018

Where you get that black strip between your steel bumper and where you cut the plastic? Makes it so much cleaner.

pc3coyote · May 10, 2018

ChoyotaChocoma said: ↑

Where you get that black strip between your steel bumper and where you cut the plastic? Makes it so much cleaner.
Click to expand...

@SouthernStyleOffRoad includes it with their bumpers! If you look for trim molding at any auto parts store or online, you should be able to find some. It really does make a world of difference in the final product I think. It also gives you a lot more breathing room in not worrying about having perfect cut lines.

patdeezy · May 10, 2018

Welcome to Cali!

pc3coyote · May 10, 2018

patdeezy said: ↑

Welcome to Cali!
Click to expand...

Thanks! It's good to be back! We've lived in Florida the majority of our lives although I lived in Cali for a few months 6 years ago.

patdeezy · May 10, 2018

pwalnut said: ↑

Thanks! It's good to be back! We've lived in Florida the majority of our lives although I lived in Cali for a few months 6 years ago.
Click to expand...

nothing like the best coast :eeps:

hope to see ya rolling around

Hextall · May 10, 2018

Now you've driven quite a bit with the new bumper and winch... Still ok handling wise? Any further sag along with unexpected rubbing?

pc3coyote · May 10, 2018

Hextall said: ↑

Now you've driven quite a bit with the new bumper and winch... Still ok handling wise? Any further sag along with unexpected rubbing?
Click to expand...

Definitely quite a bit and some rough 4WD, washboard roads in Big Bend, TX

I haven’t remeasured the front but haven’t noticed any additional visible sagging. No rubbing.

I definitely ‘feel’ the bumper more now that I’ve been driving for some time with it especially over bumps/grades. It does feel that the stock suspension struggles with the additional weight of the bumper, winch, skid plate, sliders, etc.

Upgrading the suspension to a basic package is probably next on my list once I count my pennies.

Tim1o9 · May 12, 2018

Came for the skid plate, stayed for the pupper \m/

pc3coyote · May 12, 2018

Tim1o9 said: ↑

Came for the skid plate, stayed for the pupper \m/
Click to expand...

Haha he’s a pretty cool dude

pc3coyote · May 20, 2018

Updated OP!

New recovery gear (

$103 Viair 88P Portable Compressor Kit (12V, 120 Psi, Forup to 33" Tires)

Viair 88P portable air compressor, ARB E-Z deflator)

@mesojdm extended fuse cover

Added footwell lights

Modified @mesojdm dome light with door trigger disconnect

see here for light bar/ rock lights/ reverse lights/ footwell lights write-up on installation and more photos
see here for map and dome lights write-up on installation and more photos

pc3coyote · May 20, 2018

pwalnut said: ↑

Hello, friends!

I decided to compile all of my electrical write-ups in one thread.

This write-up includes:

LED front light bar

activated by physical switch

LED rock lights

activated by physical switch AND dome light signal (approaching vehicle, unlocking vehicle, opening doors, etc)

LED reverse lights

activated by physical switch AND stock reverse signal

LED footwell lights

activated by rock lights physical switch AND dome light signal (approaching vehicle, unlocking vehicle, opening doors, etc)

I also have @mesojdm LED map and dome lights with the door trigger disconnected for the dome light (allows for independent control of the dome light with the switch without dome light coming on with the doors).

Note: this is how I did it and I'm not the best electrically. It seemed like the most logical way but there could definitely be better approaches.

Huge thanks to @DSIM for coming up with a great product (referenced below in rock lights section) and for all of the help answering my relentless questions. Daniel is a great dude!

Parts List

Front light bar

Light bar of your choice (I initially used a

MICTUNING 32" 180W Combo Led Light Bar - 13200 Lumen, 6000-6200K Crystal White, Waterproof for Off-road Jeep ATV UTV SUV Truck Boat

30" double row MicTuning light bar and then switched to a 20" single row Heise light bar in my @SouthernStyleOffRoad bumper)

$10 MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch

MicTuning wiring harness

Custom CH4x4 blue LED push switch (could also use a

MICTUNING M0810-T-LLBB LED Push Switch with Connector Wire Kit for Toyota - LED LIGHT BAR Symbol -Blue

MicTuning blue LED push switch)

@ragofabrication (or other aftermarker bumper depending on how you're mounting it)

Rock lights

Rock lights of your choice (I used

4 Pods LED Rock Lights, Ampper Waterproof LED Neon Underglow Light for Car Truck ATV UTV SUV Offroad Boat Underbody Glow Trail Rig Lamp (White)

8 Ampper white rock lights)

4 Lead LED Rock Lights Wiring Harness, Ampper LED Wiring Harness for LED Pods and Work Lights with Fuse 12V 40A Relay Waterproof On Off Rocker Switch

4-lead Ampper wiring harness

Custom CH4x4 blue LED push switch

@DSIM dome light harness (great product that was exactly what I was looking for and works exactly as intended)

Reverse lights

Reverse lights of your choice (I used

$152 RIGID INDUSTRIES Ignite Backup Kit Black Flood Flush Mount: Mounting Accessories For Offroad Use

2 Rigid Ignite flush mount diffused)

$10 MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch

Mictuning wiring harness

Custom CH4x4 blue LED push switch

Diode

Footwell lights

Footwell lights of your choice (I used

$30 LEDGlow 4pc Red LED Interior Footwell Underdash Neon Lighting Kit for Cars & Trucks - 7 Unique Patterns - Music Mode - 8 Brightness Levels - Auto Illumination - Includes Cigarette Power Adapter

LEDGlow red 4pc kit under dash lighting kit - they have other colors and also multicolor)

Extras

@ragofabrication

@forty2 3-switch black narrow switch plate (great if you're adding several lights and there's also a 2-switch version, you can skip this and use the blank location if you're only installing one light and depending on your model of truck)

Consumables

Good quality electrical tape

$10 TYUMEN 40FT 18 Gauge 2pin 2 Color Red Black Cable Hookup Electrical LED Strips Extension Wire 12V/24V DC Cable, 18AWG Flexible Wire Extension Cord for Ribbon Lamp Tape Lighting

18AWG 2-pin wire

Black spray paint (whichever)

Tools

10mm, 12mm, 14mm deep sockets

5mm allen key (I think)

Flat head and phillips screw drivers

Trim removal tool

Wire crimper

Wire stripper/cutter

Lighter

Drill with various size bits

Dremel with cutting disk

Soldering iron and solder

Wiring Diagrams

Front Light Bar

Rock Lights

Reverse Lights

Footwell Lights

@DSIM Dome Light Harness

Switches

Front Light Bar

Instructions

Leave the main connections (battery positive and ground) connections for the end once you have all your wires routed as a precaution. Always start with negative battery terminal disconnected (use a 10mm socket) and cover terminal with a rag so it can't make contact.

Remove the grill. Use the phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws and the flat head screwdriver to remove the two plastic tab screws. Grab the upper supports and pull straight out. The plastic tabs will come out.

Remove the wind deflectors on each side. Use the flat head screwdriver to remove the single plastic tab screw on each side.

Remove the two transmission cooler bolts by using the 12mm deep socket. Push the transmission cooler back to make it easier to slide the LED light bar in.

Remove the two nuts on each of the outer sides of each crash bar with the 14mm deep socket. Leave the inner bolts alone. Install only the driver side light bar bracket but only hand-tighten the nuts.

Slide in the light bar from the passenger side to the driver side. Let it rest on the crash bars. Install the passenger side bracket and hand-tighten the nuts. Use the smaller bolts that came with the light bar to attach the light bar to the brackets with a 5mm allen key. I also added two hardened washers (one on each side) but they likely aren’t needed. You may need a second person to hold the light bar as you bolt the light bar to the bracket so that you can lean down to see through the grill to line up the bolts and holes. Ensure that the light bar is pulled all the way forward and rotated to face straight out.

Mount the relay to the bracket by the battery by temporarily removing the bolt with a 10mm socket.

Cut off the spade terminals from the white and black wires from the harness, cut it shorter to length, and use the 14 AWG butt connectors to connect it to the red and black light bar wires (white to red, black to black). Use electrical tape over the connectors. Use electrical tape over the second set of white and black wires from the harness or cut them off if you don't plan to use them (they are for a second light bar).

Temporarily run the two red terminals to the positive battery terminal and the two black terminals to the ground to the right of the relay to test the light bar. Use the attached switch. If it works, disconnect the terminals. If it doesn’t, troubleshoot. The battery terminal requires a12mm socket and the ground requires a 10mm socket.

Reinstall the transmission cooler

Cut off small corners of the wind deflectors with a dremel and then reinstall. This is so that it doesn’t hit the light bar.

Zip tie the wire going from the light bar to the relay in various places to keep it out of the way. There are plenty of places to attach too.

Follow @moe2o4 ’s guide to disassemble the dash panels. Use trim removal tool, 10mm socket, and phillips screwdriver to remove three trim pieces on driver side.

If you're only installing one switch: Remove the blank switch place-holder from the far right. It unclips from the back and pushes to the front.

If you're installing multiple switches: Remove the cubby with a screwdriver.. It unscrews from the back. Screw in the new switch holder.

Cut off the switch from the harness. Cut off a straight piece of a metal hangar. Use the hanger wire to poke a hole in the rubber firewall. Use electrical tape to tape the red, white, and black wires coming from the relay to the hanger. Rub a dab of dish soap over the taped area of the hangar and then pull it through from the interior by pulling on the end of the hangar.

Wire the switch to the harness wires by using the 20 AWG butt connectors. Red harness wire goes to the green switch wire, white harness wire goes to the red 1 (first after green) switch wire, black harness wire goes to the black switch wire. After that, use the 20 AWG quick splice to connect the red 2 (second after green, first from black) switch wire to the green cargo wire (first wire on the first switch from the left). After you connect everything, wrap all the connects in electrical tape.

Reconnect the two two red terminals to the positive battery terminal and the two black terminals to the ground to test the light bar. By default, nothing is lit up. The switch text LED should light up when the interior lights are on. The switch light bar LED should come on when pressed. Test the new switch to make sure it works, that the lighter comes on, and the switch light bar LED should also light up. If it works, proceed. If it doesn’t, troubleshoot.

Ziptie the extra slack going from the relay to the firewall, from the firewall to the battery positive terminal, and from the firewall to the ground terminal. Reinstall the dash panels. Reinstall the grill.

Photos

Light bar only:

Lows and fogs only:

Lows, fogs, and light bar:

Lows, highs, fogs, and light bar:

Rock Lights

Instructions

Engine bay wiring

Always start with negative battery terminal disconnected (use a 10mm socket) and cover terminal with a rag so it can't make contact.

Run two power wires and two ground wires (for relay and switch) to battery and ground in side of engine bay using 12mm and 10mm socket respectively. Trim to right lengths utilizing 18AWG wire and butt connectors (heat shrunk with lighter, wrapped in electrical tape) as needed. Use wire loom (electrical tape on ends) over wires

Cut off switch. Use a sharp object (coat hanger, shish kabob stick, etc) to poke a hole in the rubber boot, with the switch wire electrical taped to it, to run the switch wire into the cab. Use wire loom to cover wire

Switch placement and wiring

Follow @moe2o4 ’s guide to disassemble the dash panels. Use trim removal tool, 10mm socket, and phillips screwdriver to remove three trim pieces on driver side.

If you're only installing one switch: Remove the blank switch place-holder from the far right. It unclips from the back and pushes to the front.

If you're installing multiple switches: Remove the cubby with a screwdriver.. It unscrews from the back. Screw in the new switch holder.

Push in switches

Use butt connectors (and electrical tape) to connect switch wires to switch

Use quick splice connector (and electrical tape) to connect switch wire to another switch wire for illumination

If you want the rock lights triggered by the dome light signal in addition to the physical switch (approaching vehicle, unlocking vehicle, opening doors, etc

Follow this Toyota guide on removing the a-pillar cover

Ziptie @DSIM relay to one of the factory harnesses

Follow @Volksparts guide on wiring in the @DSIM black wire. Feed @DSIM black wire up behind dash towards a-pillar and use quick splice connector to connect @DSIM black wire to yellow a-pillar wire

Use quick splice connectors to connect @DSIM red wire to switch green wire and @DSIM yellow wire to switch red 1 wire

Reassemble

Lights placement

Middle four lights were placed under each door, rear two lights were under the bumper, all were ziptied to the frame

Front two lights were under the front bumper. I made a paper template of the light by tracing it and used that to drill three holes (two mounting bolts and wire) into the flimsy plastic in the front of the truck under the bumper in front of the wheel well. I then mounted the lights using the two supplied bolts. I accessed the inside of the wheel well to secure the 10mm nut from the wheel well using the 10mm socket to hold the nut and the 5mm alley key to tighted the bolt. You access the wheel well by removing one 10mm bolt with the 10mm socket and one push screw with a flathead screwdriver from inside the wheel well and them pull the plastic aside.

Lights wiring

There are two wires from the relay for each side, each with two leads

Run one wire across back of engine bay facing cab ziptieing to existing harness as you go

Cut off wiring harness leads. Connect additional wire to one of the harness wire leads with butt connectors (and electrical tape, wrapped in wire loom) and run straight down to under truck

Run wire to first light (in wire loom) at the passenger front door ziptieing to existing harness as you go

Three way splice with two butt connectors (one for red positive wire and one for black negative wire). One side has the incoming wire. Other side has rock light wire twisted together with additional wire. I'd strip the wire for both the rock light and outgoing wire and then twist the strands together (do that for both red and black wires respectively). Wrap in electrical tape and then put in wire loom

Repeat above for passenger rear door, passenger rear bumper, driver rear bumper, driver rear door, driver front door (daisy chaining as you go with three way splice at each light, covering wire in wire loom as you go, ziptieing to existing harness as you go)

For the passenger front bumper, connect additional wire (with butt connectors) to the other lead from where you ran across the engine and where you ran the one lead down to under the truck, wrap in wire loom, and fish the wire down to the small opening in the bumper from behind the headlights. Connect the light to the wire and then push all of the extra wire back into the bumper

For the driver front bumper, you can now use the other primary wire coming from the relay. We'll only need the long lead so you can either cut off the extra one in the middle or just cover it electrical tape. Repeat process above for fishing the wire and connecting the light

@DSIM dome light harness

Photos

Rear Lights

Instructions

Same as rock lights with the exception of drilling into the plastic part of the rear bumper with a 1.75" hole saw for the main hole for the light and 3/16" drill bit for the mount screw holes

If you want the new reverse lights to come on with stock reverse signal in addition to physical switch

Follow this EAA guide on how to solder a diode to 2-3 ft of wire and then put wire assembly inside wire loom

Use quick splice connector to connect one end of new wire to middle white wire of trailer harness and other end of new wire to red positive wire of wire leading to the reverse lights

Photos

Footwell Lights

Instructions

Always start with negative battery terminal disconnected (use a 10mm socket) and cover terminal with a rag so it can't make contact.

Follow @moe2o4 ’s guide to disassemble the dash panels. Use trim removal tool, 10mm socket, and phillips screwdriver to remove three trim pieces on driver side.

If your LEDs have a control box, mount it in desired location. I mounted mine using the supplied double-sided tape in the driver footwell area in the bottom right corner.

Use a quick splice connector to connect the red positive wire from the LED control box to the yellow @DSIM wire. I also added extra electrical tape around the plastic connectors with the fuse to ensure it doesn't come disconnected.

Use a quick splice connector to connect the black negative wire from the LED control box to the black wire from the rock light CH4x4 switch.

Pass two of the light bars through the small hole of the carpet under the console to the passenger side.

Run two of the light bars (one for each side) to under the seats while tucking the extra wire up and under the side of the wire console.

Secure light bars in desired locations using zipties and/or double-sided tape. I mounted mine at:

Driver side front: under dash with double-sided tape

Passenger side front: under dash with zipties using holes already in dash

Driver side rear: under front of driver seat using zipties around metal support bar

Passenger side rear: under front of passenger seat using zipties around metal support bar

Photos

Switches

Photos

Three-switch option

1-switch option

Off:

Interior lights on:

Interior lights on, light bar on:

Relay Holder

Instructions

This is only if your relays don't have the empty tab slot on the back to install onto the relay holder

Drill three holes into relay holder tabs to mount relays with zipties. If you buy relays from an auto parts store, they'll have a slot where the relay holder tabs will slide in. Since I used premade harnesses, they didn't have this

Spray paint over the new holes to avoid rust

Mount relay holder in engine bay

Install relays on relay holder with zipties through hole in the relay and new holes in the relay holder

Map and Dome Lights

For info on my map and dome lights, see my write-up here.
Click to expand...

pc3coyote · May 21, 2018

pwalnut said: ↑

I decided to compile install instructions, photos, and reviews all into one post. I'm a little slow so it took me awhile to figure out how to do the door trigger disconnect for the dome light so I took some photos of the process and included it below. Thanks to those that helped me. And big thanks to @mesojdm for the great product design and support with questions. Cool dude as we all know!

Install Instructions

Map Lights

Ro_Ja Boy said: ↑

Pull down on the overhead panel at the corners near the lights. You feel like you're going to break something, but you won't. Then twist the sockets out and pull the bulbs out of the sockets. Set sockets aside. Get a pencil (I took a punch and put painters tape around the end) to push the plastic light out from inside. They will fall out. Feed the wires through the hole where the socket goes, plug into the socket, pop the new panel in and twist the socket back in. MESO said it's possible to have installed the connector from the new light backwards into the socket, so if it doesn't work, try turning the socket around and re-twist into place.
Click to expand...

DrDaveTaco said: ↑

Received these today. Love them. OP, message sent.

Few pics of install. Other light is cheap LED from Amazon which keep flickering which is why I bought these.

Will update with nighttime pics.

Found it easiest to install but simply firmly pulling panel down and accessing from behind.

Click to expand...

Dome Light

From Toyota, the switch's two positions are 'always on' and 'on with doors'. There is no way to have it off when the doors are open unless you also have the map lights turned off as well.

Disconnect negative side of the battery with a 10mm socket just to be safe.

Gather tools. If you're just installing it normally (come on with doors open as well as the switch), you only need a small screwdriver like below. If you're doing the door trigger disconnect, you'll also need some and a lighter or heat gun.

Use the screwdriver to remove the stock plastic cover by inserting it into the slots circled in green on the switch side. There are four blue tabs that will come out of the black housing.

Remove the stock bulb. If you are not doing the door trigger disconnect, you can skip to the end. If you are doing the door trigger disconnect, use the screw driver to push back the two tabs circled in green below in the black housing. Then use your fingers and slowly start pulling the dome light housing down from each corner. There are a few clips holding it in but it will give once you pull on it lightly.

Once you have it disconnected, insert the screwdriver into the little slots circled in blue, there are two small tabs for the grey piece that you are unclipping. You can use your finger to push the grey section out as you do this.

Here is the back of the black housing. The location of the two tabs that you were undoing above are circled below in blue. Once they are unclipped, that side of the grey piece unclips and pulls out from the black housing.

Once you separate the grey piece from the black housing, you need to expose the wires. Use the screwdriver to lightly push each of the four tabs below circled in green to remove the cover over the wires. You can also use your finger from the side to help pry the lid off.

Once you have the cover off, use your fingers or the screwdriver to lightly pull up the middle red wire leaving the two side wires in place. Cut off a small piece of heat shrink, insert it over the red wire, and use a lighter or heat gun to shrink it. Set it off to the side away from where the wire cover goes.

Snap the wire cover back on over the wires. You then reinstall the grey piece back into the black housing. Insert the side with the wires that goes towards the switch in first (circled below in green) and then snap it into place with a light push.

Push the black housing back into the headliner. Make sure you fully press each corner until it's sitting tight and flush into the headliner. Now, you can install the new meso dome light. Lightly squeeze the bulb adapter and while compressed insert it into the spot of the stock bulb and then release. The red positive wire goes toward the driver side.

Install the new cover starting with the back side with the larger two plastic tabs. You can tuck the wire in behind the light, just make sure that it doesn't stick out of the slot where the switch goes. You can give it a light squeeze as you push in the front two tabs.

Reconnect negative side of the battery with a 10mm socket.

Test it out! One side of the switch should be always off and the other side should be always on. You can now have the dome light come on whenever you want and have it off with the doors open so that only the map lights come on with the doors open.

Review and Photos

Previous setup: V1 map lights (smoked) and stock dome light

pwalnut said: ↑

Thanks @Ro_Ja Boy for the instructions!

I love these things! Install is super easy, they look OEM (actually better), and are super bright! Thanks @mesojdm for the badass work!

Before

After

Before

After

Click to expand...

Previous setup: V2 map lights (clear) and V1 dome light (clear)

pwalnut said: ↑

These things are no joke! Insanely bright light with crazy dispersion throughout the cab. They are a very bright white with a slight blue tint to them. The dome light illuminates the entire cab by itself and when the dome and map lights are both on, the lights actually hurt your eyes if you look up! The entire cab is filled with light when they are all on. Even with my dark tinted windows, you can see the entire cab illuminated when you approach the truck with the lights on.

The V2 white map lights are almost to bright to consider using them while driving but I love them. The few times I did use them while driving, I did not have any problems but it was a little distracting and did make it harder to see my side mirrors. The V1 smoked map lights are the perfect improvement over the OEM lights to also use while driving in my opinion (both in terms of increased brightness and whiter light). The V2 ultimate map lights are much brighter even when compared to the V1 map lights. I'm going to keep using the V2 lights since they match the new ultimate dome perfect both aesthetically and in terms of light color. I rarely use the map lights while driving so it's really nice having the whole cab lit up with all of the light whenever we are getting in/out of the truck.

I'm going to hold onto the V1 lights for a little longer in case I change my mind but I'll likely have them for sale in the next few days for cost+shipping.

Amazing work as always, @mesojdm! Design/functionality/quality is super impressive.

Click to expand...

Current setup: V2 map lights (red) and V1 dome light (clear)
(with dome light door trigger disconnect, footwell lights with door trigger, and rock lights with door trigger)

For info on my rock lights and footwell lights, see my write-up here.
Click to expand...

islander_671 · May 21, 2018

Wow! Beautiful truck!

Will the wheels, tires, and TRD Pro lights fit on a 2016 Tacoma TRD Off-road?

Log in or Sign up

Welcome to Tacoma World!

PC3coyote's 2017 Tacoma Build

#381
GruntledCitizen Well-Known Member

#382
Natnewt Well-Known Member

#383
Natnewt Well-Known Member

#384
TACOmobbin Well-Known Member

#385
patdeezy Well-Known Member

#386
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#387
matt636 Well-Known Member

#388
ChoyotaIII Someone took "Choyota"

#389
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#390
patdeezy Well-Known Member

#391
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#392
patdeezy Well-Known Member

#393
Hextall Well-Known Member

#394
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#395
Tim1o9 Well-Known Member

#396
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#397
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#398
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#399
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#400
islander_671 New Member

Products Discussed in

Log in or Sign up

Useful Searches

Welcome to Tacoma World!

PC3coyote's 2017 Tacoma Build

#381 GruntledCitizen Well-Known Member

#382 Natnewt Well-Known Member

#383 Natnewt Well-Known Member

#384 TACOmobbin Well-Known Member

#385 patdeezy Well-Known Member

#386 pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#387 matt636 Well-Known Member

#388 ChoyotaIII Someone took "Choyota"

#389 pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#390 patdeezy Well-Known Member

#391 pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#392 patdeezy Well-Known Member

#393 Hextall Well-Known Member

#394 pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#395 Tim1o9 Well-Known Member

#396 pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#397 pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#398 pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#399 pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#400 islander_671 New Member

Products Discussed in Entire Site Forum: 3rd Gen. Builds (2016-2023) Thread: PC3coyote's 2017 Tacoma Build

#381
GruntledCitizen Well-Known Member

#382
Natnewt Well-Known Member

#383
Natnewt Well-Known Member

#384
TACOmobbin Well-Known Member

#385
patdeezy Well-Known Member

#386
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#387
matt636 Well-Known Member

#388
ChoyotaIII Someone took "Choyota"

#389
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#390
patdeezy Well-Known Member

#391
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#392
patdeezy Well-Known Member

#393
Hextall Well-Known Member

#394
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#395
Tim1o9 Well-Known Member

#396
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#397
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#398
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#399
pc3coyote [OP] www.pc3coyote.com

#400
islander_671 New Member

Products Discussed in