Total Chaos outboard shock mounts

good for them i still don't think Id run it.

 

Like Monte said, bolts are just alignment tools. Then I made a frame plate to match up exactly with the shock mount. And boxed in the frame and x braced it at the same time. Beef.

 

I've always wondered if it would be possible to use one stock lower shock mount (ubolt plate) with a pre-tacoma lower shock mount(they are opposite of the tacoma) instead of welding on the lower mounts. Tacoma mount would go on driver side, pre-taco mount would go on passenger side. This would prevent anyone from ruining the stock axle seal from heat.

Yes I know it's not hard to weld on the lower mounts if you are already welding on the upper mount. I am just talking about the possibility.

 

I don't see the point. Not gonna ruin the seals from heat from the axle. The shock itself will get hotter than the axle will ever get.

Plus you can do a U bolt flip kit which means you have less stuff hanging down.

 

I was laying under my truck measuring for shocks and thinking the same thing, if I can find one I'll try it out.

 

Here is the part number (I think, there are 3 versions for pre-tacos):
48046-35180
https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com/oem-parts/toyota-leaf-spring-seat-4804635180

 

Like Monte said, the heat won't do anything. The axles are thick steel, and have oil in them. the spinning axle creates far more heat while driving than welding would.

A u-bolt flip would make more sense, as real estate is tight between the leafs and the backing plate. Eliminate the u-bolt plate and you gain some precious space.

 

Not trying to start an internet argument here, but my thoughts on welding shock mounts to axles;

I tend to doubt that a free spinning axle would create more heat than welding, and if it does create that much heat, something is probably not right. Some of those shock mounts gets welded REALLY close to where the seals ride. The tubes are probably only 1/4 inch thick, and have minimal oil in them, its only enough to lube the outer bearings, its not a reservoir like the diff is. My general rule when doing any axle welding within 8 inches or so of any seal is just to change it out, its too easy not to.

I've been that fool in the past who trussed axles, welded on spring plates, moved shock mounts etc and forgot about axle seals that were still in place. I was even lucky enough to get to change inner axle seals on one of my jeeps in the middle of a cross country trip, in the winter, in Utah. Good thing I was younger back then!

Edit: the machined surfaces where the outer seals ride is probably thicker than 1/4 inch.

 

no doubt changing your seals out is a good idea. Considering how old these trucks are now though, rear wheel bearing are a more and more common thing to go out. Mine when out in the middle of the dirt. Not fun.

So you can kill two birds with one stone and change the bearings out while you redo the seals after welding on the housing.

anything over 150k should think about doing wheel bearings anyways instead of waiting for it to pop. Not a lot of warning before they go.

 

That's a good mentality to have, and good point about the bearings. I've never seen it, but have heard of welding arc traveling through roller bearings and causing them to fail.

 

ive seen several fail in the last two years in person. Mine was just stock.

 

He's right guys, my shock mounts are 2 inches from the axle seals. Directions from TC say to replace them after welding. When I ripped it apart, sure as shit drivers side was leaking.

 

Fail because of welding, or just a regular wheel bearing fail?

 

yeah i thought he was talking about shock seals

No welding on the axle. Just failed.

 

Does anybody have valving recommendations for the Total Chaos outboard kit? I'm currently running the kit with some Fox 2.0's without resis and the ride is pretty bad. The shocks seem too stiff off the top, but when I'm romping on the truck a bit they just bottom out super easy. Pretty much looking for the complete opposite characteristics. Really supple off the top with good washboard handling, and then a nice ramp up towards the end of the shock stroke to resist bottom out. I'm eventually going to be replacing the Fox shocks with ADS shocks and have to provide them with the valving numbers I want.

 

I could give you my King stack, but I don't know how it would translate to 2.0's

 

Give me a month and I'll tell u how mine do.

 

That would be awesome. It seems like your shock setup is a little bit more vertical than the total chaos setup so I wonder if the valving would translate over well.

 

You may need to increase compression slightly, but it shouldn’t be much. A lot is going to depend on your driving style and truck setup.

 

When you guys cycle the leafs/main leaf, are you measuring from fully extended to a flat spring or to negative? I'm surprised you're able to get 10" of travel!

And thanks @Blackdawg and @Willbeck for the info on the Chevy 63! So much info on here, not sure which I route I should go, but in the mean time, gonna wheel it and just enjoy the rig. Hoping to decide how to relocate the shocks later this year after I log more trips to get a better idea how I drive and what I need the truck to do.