Seized LCA Bolts/Bushings

Question for the suspension gurus,

I have seized lower control arms, which as most of you know, is pretty common due to the lack of greasing from Toyota. I'm not looking to invest the $$ into a TC or a DK LCA, because I don't really see the point, especially cause I don't plan on going long travel or wheeling that hard, plus the stock LCA's are actually pretty good. So I am going to stay with OEM products. Now the question I have is:

I'm going to buy the parts from Camelback Toyota, and in doing so, if I buy brand new OEM LCAs, they include the bushings and the ball joint. All I would have to buy are the toe/camber adjusters, pins, and plates. Which would be about $670 when everything is said and done not including taxes. NOW if I were to just buy the toe/camber pins/plates, and the bushings (only the seized parts) it would be around $381 minus taxes.

Is there really a benefit of buying the new LCAs which would give me new Ball Joints? How often do ball joints seize/brake? The $300 difference doesn't phase me, too much, because I have money set aside for this. But didn't know if just buying the seized parts would be putting a Band-Aid on a broken bone, ya know?

I guess a little background about my truck, it's a 2013 TRD Sport, 61K miles, and I wheel during the summer on not buggy worthy trails, but some that do require a winch/recovery equipment.

Thanks for any input, it is greatly appreciated!

 

Is it just the ball joint that's seized? I just went out and looked but it looks like they press in/out like other trucks I've had. Haven't messed with the taco yet.

 

You can buy just the ball joints $42 each, whiteline bushing kit $100 and bolt kits for $30 each..... or moog control arm bushings $18 each..

 

If the $300 difference doesn't bother you just get the new lcas. Knocking out the old bushings and installing new ones is a pita. That money saves you a good bit of time and work. If you do rebuild, stay away from the moog bushings, they're known to come loose.

 

Apparently it's not the ball joint that is seized, it's the actual caster/camber pins/bushings.

But I think i'll just buy the brand new ones and run like that. seems like it'll save me time in the long run dealing w/ pressing new bushings in. Thanks y'all

 

Just swapped my LCAs for the same issue. Bought complete Moog parts and greaseable cam alignment bolts. Was ~200 for parts.

 

So did you end up doing this? Mine are frozen and I need to make some adjustments to get rid of some slight tire rub. I'm guessing I'll need the sawzall to cut out the old cam adjuster bolts.

 

So I ordered new everything. LCA's (w/ bushings and ball joints) and all camber/caster bolts for each LCA. They should be arriving tomorrow and i'll install them either tomorrow or Saturday. it seemed easier, tbh, then trying to cut out the bolts (which I may have to do) and such.

 

Hey, same problem, real bummer. I just ordered all the same stuff today from Toyota of Dallas. Going to tackle it next weekend. Will be PB Blasting throughout the week to try and help ease things out. Wonder what you plan on cutting the through the seized bushing/sleeve/bolts with? I see most people here use the sawzall and a stack of blades. I was thinking an angle grinder might work, but maybe won’t get deep enough?

 

How'd it go for you? I finally knocked out the task, yesterday. I used an angle grinder on the bolts, then when I couldn't reach anymore used a sawzall. My passenger side was so jacked up, and I got so frustrated, that I just used the angle grinder and cut off one arm of the LCA. The whole process, though, took two hours to swap both sides. I think it was definitely a lot less tedious than people make it out to be.