TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Its inconvenient yet believable. Machinists often spend years standing on hard surfaces for long periods. Or he could be hardcore at sports.

 

Wonder if the same guy fabs the y-pipes. I ordered one in March and was told they are in the shop waiting for flanges to be welded on. Still on back order.

 

I put my 70 mm TB On this past weekend. First I’m seeing of problems with them. We shall see I guess. I haven’t had a chance to try it out yet, as I’m impatiently awaiting the arrival of my new spindles.



I didn’t feel like running out for hose, so I used one of the OEM hoses (the shorter one) to loop it for now.




The TB rubs the coolant hose, so I put a longer piece of anti abrasion covering on it.

 

If you cut the taller nipple down a little, you can get the hose to not make contact with the TB.

 

Cool. Thank you. I’ll look into it later, as I’ll most likely put the lines back on the TB.

 

looks like ill have to put the bypass valve jet back in so im not lean on part throttle. ill hopefully be able to wot shift soon anyways so it wont matter about the lag

 

Hmm.. bummer. Can you explain more? I doubt the bypass valve jet will do anything for you, unless your "part throttle" is literally on the verge of closing the valve and building boost, and therefore damping the closing/opening of the valve will help you? My suspect is that you are still in vacuum, the fuel pressure is low, and thus you aren't injecting enough fuel to keep the AFR in check. Would be good to know if you are in open or closed loop at the point you notice it leaning out?

"part throttle" means different things to different folks, if you are at 1/2 throttle, accelerating, the valve slams shut and boost builds rapidly before the fuel pressure can catch up that is one thing. But driving along at 55, 75 or whatever on flat ground, requiring 1/8 throttle or whatever, at steady state but no boost - is a completely different thing

 

I wonder if someone has information or could experiment with a check valve, inline of sorts... that would allow rising fuel pressure from boost, but prevent vacuum from causing decreased fuel pressure? Anyone out there have expertise in that area? some sort of spring loaded thing that allows flow both directions when positive pressure is present, but then as soon as it is less than 1/2psi or whatever value, it closes up and would prevent negative pressure from reaching the regulator.

Seems like more pressure when on boost is good to fool the injector volume when a smaller pulley (2.5-2.7) is used with the TRD tune, but then the injectors would still be at the normal 43 psi of fuel pressure when running without boost.

 

I haven’t checked yet. I only went for a quick run. But for me before I had the fpr mod and the 2.8 pulley I was running rich on the highway cruising. Around 14.2-14.3. Haven’t had it on highway yet. Maybe next week.

 

What did you use for a gasket? Looks large.

 

Tried to have some fun with this X. He wasn’t interested

 

Boost reference no?

 

Thats close to 14.7 considering how sensitive the gauge is.... where is your sensor located?

I mean, cruising and my aem dances around a few points

 

What I am curious about, is boost referencing without also being vacuum referenced.

 

I like your ideas and you know what you are talking about. There was a guy that posted the check valve idea a long time ago but it didnt gain any traction.

The problem I see with a check valve is it would hold max fuel pressure since the "boost reference" air would not be able to bleed off. If you added a restriction that would apply only while sensing vacuum, fuel pressure would still drop, just more slowly.
If I understand you correctly, you are talking about a system that raises fuel pressure commensurate with boost, but only drops to atmospheric pressure 43.5psi. I dont think there is an easy or inexpensive way to achieve that.
If increased fuel pressure is desired using the stock sc fuel injectors (since currently only people with UCON or standalone can run larger injectors) then an adjustable fpr would probably be the best bet but still not perfect. Closed loop the ecu would compensate but as soon as you hit open loop you would be super rich until reaching the engines max fuel demand.

 

The owner needs to sell....

 

Not possible on a roots.

 

Question regarding boost, gauges. Which is best? Shortest possible length of hose or keep boost sensor in cab and away from heat and dirt?

 

Or mechanical?