TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Perhaps the "check valve" needs to be further defined. I am not positive it exists in the small size that would be required. But I am not talking about a 1 way valve that would lock in the highest boost referenced fuel pressure and leave it there. But I know these things exist in larger industrial, fluid flow applications. It is a spring loaded valve, to stay OPEN and allow flow in both directions until the pressure goes above or below a threshold then it closes because the spring force has either been exceeded or doesn't apply force anymore, depending on the design. In the valve industry, the pressure the valve starts or stops flowing is known as the cracking pressure. You could also think of a manual boost controller in a turbo application. All you are really doing is carefully and artificially clamping the output based on input and a setting. Same type of thing applies here letting the FPR rise and fall with boost, but not letting it change with vacuum.

What I am after, is rising and falling fuel pressure with boost, but then when in vacuum the valve closes at or near atmospheric pressure and therefore the fuel pressure is not pulled below 43.5 psi, by very much at least. Think of a valve with a -1/2psi cracking pressure - it would flow both directions until the pressure went negative.... Then in theory, the engine runs just as it did under vacuum, and when in boost, the injector flow is proportionally more than expected due to the added fuel pressure. Which is what is needed when running a smaller pulley than the TRD tune/injectors have margin to handle.

I was fairly dead set on a UCON and TRD injectors. And inching down on the pulley starting from a 2.8 until I could see the AFR not keep up. But with all the chatter lately, I am thinking of going simple, cheaper. TRD and the smaller pulley, with some enrichment mechanism. That said, I don't plan on revving the piss out of my family overland pig. I just want more highway HP and torque when climbing hills fully loaded. I am not concerned with running out of injector pulsewidth at 5700rpm. I will never hit that in anything except an accidental loss of traction while in 1st gear, or needing to floor it in some sticky situation off road. I may be able to get away with TRD tune by itself given my use case. But it is all unknowns for me... the damn magnuson is still in the box in the garage, waiting next to everything else I have to do

Something like this would need a lot of tinkering, monitoring of boost and fuel psi and AFR, a lot of trial and error probably.

 

Mine is mounted horizontal right behind the sc. Tube is only 10 or so inches long.
Top center of pic.

 

How did you route the hose into the cab and keep it that short?

 

That's what I planned. Thanks

 

Pressure sensor. Its electrical from the sensor to the cab.

 

Proves how little I know about gauges.

 

The wiring is long enough to reach the supercharger. Some run the hose into the cab. Just getting a feel for if there is reason one way or another.

 

We all gotta start somewhere.
There is no stupid question if you dont know the answer.

 

Probably only those with mechanical gauges.

 

Thank you. Having never bought a boost gauge, and because I'm in the market, does the set up typically run a sensor connected to the SC via hose, and then a wire that runs to the gauge? Is this typical for AEM boost gauges?

 

Correct. You will use 12v switched and ground from power inside the cab. Also I think another wire hooked into illumination so gauge light only come on or dim when headlights are on.

 

Thanks guys. About to mount my afr gauge too. Is there a way to check how accurate it is based on location and the mods I have? I have stock exhaust. Might to a weld in bung, maybe drill and strap. Not sure how much location might affect readings.

 

Where did you wire the 12v from? I've heard of ppl wiring it into the cigarette lighter live wire

 

The hard part is modifying the cravenspeed mount to fit x-series gauges. The connection was easy.

 

Haven't decided yet. Might just piggyback power from my meth pump switched power.

 

Before any cats is best. I know some have mounted after the first set of cats but it will scew the reading slightly. You just have to check your afr reading to the stock o2's. You can do it with scangauge, Ultragauge, torque app with elm 327 adapter, etc.
Whatever the difference is is how far your afr gauge is off so you have a reference.

I have two afr's in one gauge. One for each bank mounted before cat.

 

I used "wash" circuit with an add a fuse 10amp

 

I was just about to return the scangauge I just bought. Didn't know I could check afr with it.

 

@loginfailed, I found something else for you to do to your truck: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/installing-a-currie-ford-9-in-a-tacoma.545890/

 

I think you can. You can with the ultragauge