TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Probs lambda, right?

 

Ooo, I just hit 5,000 with that last post.

 

Yeah, mines just the scangauge. I'll check. If it doesn't I'll return it.

 

And its gone

 

Lol. Not much posting compared to the beginning.

 

You're mind is running at a 10, and over complicating things. You are trying to make a Rube Goldberg machine for fuel pressure.

Don't worry about fuel pressure being under 43.5 psi at idle. It works fine. The OEM tune handles it without fault. Then under boost, it rises "proportionately" 1:1. I say thay because the OEM FPR is teeny tiny. Still works well enough though. I know this because I have done this for years. Even lowered the base fuel pressure, prior to vacuum, and it still worked without a CEL. A means to lean out the OPEN Loop fueling, without having to electronically tune the ecu..

Want a better FPR, then upgrade.

No need to reinvent the wheel on this one. Just apply the knowledge accurately.

Want to have over 43.5 psi with boost and 43.5 at idle to atmosphere, get a pre-throttle body F/I modifier. Not to cheap though.

 

@Roostfactor, that air pump mounting bracket looks sweet! Any tips on where I can locate an illumination wire for my gauges?

 

Makes perfect sense and the theory is sound. I just dont know if said valve is cheap enough to be feasible. Iirc people have said in vacuum they are still around 38psi fp so I dont think it drops that much in vacuum when boost referenced.

 

It is lambda. Bank 1 and 2

 

@Skootter14, thanks for the gauge mount tips. Turned out nice.

 

Ahhh, yes at least on the ultragauge but you can change it to afr in the settings.

 

Tis true.

Back in my STS turbo days, I had an electronic solenoid check valve, to regulate crank case pressure. To bleed it off. When it sensed over a certain psi, it opened up. Could be made to work in the opposite. Not a worth endeavor when fueling works well without that. Still an option though.

 

Green wire. Parking light + on the 13 pin plug. Iirc its behind the fuse box.

 

Mind racing faster than it needs to is a common thread in my life... LOL. However, I have to say that it isn't idle that I am worried about. What is concerning is the higher loads, throttle position of driving, even accelerating but the intake is still under vacuum, and thus you would be leaner than intended with load on the engine. If in closed loop, the ECU should figure it out especially when the fuel psi isn't that much lower. But if you switch over to open loop, (which happens with my truck even on the slight inclines of the overpasses on the freeway), but without having boost, i.e. still in vacuum, then you would likely be much leaner than targeted.

I like what you are saying thought, you were trying to increase AFR by artificially lowering the fuel pressure during open loop. Was that even with a blower, so your base fuel pressure was lower on purpose, but still rose 1:1 with boost? What you are inferring is that the tune is way rich, even outside of boost, and don't worry. All I have ever heard is that the tune is way rich, in boost, at high RPM. Can you confirm it is rich even in the non boosted, just driving around normally situations? If so, then yes, I'm probably overthinking it. And again, I am a total desk jockey/backseat driver in this case, I don't even have the blower fitted so no real data for myself, and gathering tidbits here and there on the forum is way less than perfect...

 

I have a boost gauge and the DLG-1 (which includes the gauge and a second sensor unit) that im looking to wire up this weekend. Can all 3 be run off the same add a fuse?

 

I dont know... i spose maths would need to be done on the amperage and i cant recall the rules for the add a fuse amperage wise.

 

Thanks.

Innovate says 3amp draw from each and says each should have their own circuit with a 5amp fuse.

Just trying to get my game plan together and order what I need from Amazon.

 

Mine only had a 5 amp fuse. At that would an experiment gone wrong only pop a fuse??

 

Ideally i presume

 

Instead of a fleet of fuse taps could I use a 40amp relay off the battery with seperate 5amp fuse lines to each gauge? I have a spare from a flight kit.