What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

You are wasting your time if you think a timing calibrator will help. The timing calibrator can only pull timing and is only good if you have pinging. I believe I’ve read about this on CT and knock sensors seem to be the issue.

I might be having the same issue. Although I haven’t seen my timing numbers in the single digits. The peak and hold function on my tool reported that it dips that low....

This shit is about to wear me out. I still have some issues to iron out.

Long cold starts. Which is Fuel pressure related.

Sometimes when I’m just driving normally I get very slight surging. I can see my AFRs getting richer then leaner and I can hear the SC get louder and quieter. But it’s not enough to bounce my tachometer. It’s totally random and will go away as soon as I add gas or brake a bit.

I get pinging in OD most of the time unless ECT power is on. But ECT sucks to drive around on through town.

 

@BartMaster1234 this just came up if you need 5 lug parts. http://row52.com//Vehicle/Index/5TEVL52N94Z363650

 

at least your knock sensors aren't buried under the intake manifold.

Im going to swap mine out to the GM one. Supposed to help a lot.

 

Awesome, thanks! Never see 2001-2004 trucks, only 1995-2000.

5-lug is kind of on hold for now until I can get a title for it.

 

How much did you tighten the bushing down? Or does it end up bottoming out with no more movement.
Thanks!

 

No rubbing at all. Not even in reverse.

 

It doesn't take much at all to tighten it. I think I moved it less than an eighth or a turn. I basically just went off feel of turning the steering wheel, then check to make sure there still isn't any play at the tire. I drove it today and its a little bit tighter but not anything I'm concerned about.


It does appear that there is a torque spec of 51 ftlbs for it. I don't think mine is that tight though.

Screenshot_20180425-094642 by Ryan Heintzelman - Flickr2BBcode

 

Are you referring to OEM vs. Extended Travel (ET) lengths? If so, OEM is stock spec travel lengths and ET is designed for use with aftermarket UCA. Aftermarket UCA allows for more down travel or droop, and you will need to compensate for this with an ET length shock. How you get you lift depends on several factors, most starting with coil spring weight and setting.

 

...Uh oh

 

Alright! Yeah the only reason i ask is i wander all the time on the road and i'm thinking its either my tie rod ends or rack and pinion..
Already did the Roll pin Mod and it didn't do much but tighten up the steering column.
All try this next!
Thanks.

 

It doesn’t mention anything about LT, all it states is “lifted application “. Thought it was a little odd but guess I can ask DSM and see what they mean.

 

Yeah that happened to me too, that's a common problem with 1st gens and suspension lifts (inner boots start to pull off the CV). Mine was like that for about a month, kept telling myself I'd get around to fixing it and one day the boot came off completely and slung the grease everywhere. Ended up having to swap out the CV axle for a new one, and lowering my lift down about a half an inch to keep it from happening again. So far so good.

The angle is a bit too high so even if you fix it, it will likely happen again. Are you running a diff drop? Might be enough to help...it wasn't for me though.

Or you could try those high angle CV axle boots that someone sells, I think it's RCV or something like that.

 

Gave mine an alignment today...$80, along with the tech trying to sell me new control arm bushings, steering rack bushings, etc. Just put it on the rack and get it close pal.



Getting some 33x10.50's "on loan" tomorrow, and moving to central Oregon in less than a week.

 

I have a 2 day subcription to Toyota TIS website. Need anything?

 

not LT. LT is long travel. Thats totally different.

Extended travel coilover as still "stock spec". The only difference is that most manufactors remove a small spacer that is inside the shock. The spacer limits the travel the shaft does. They do this because the OEM upper ball joint binds at a certain point before the shock could full extend. If you get Uniball UCAs you eliminate this problem and can remove the spacer from the coilover thus giving you a more down travel.

That is the only difference between an extended travel vs standard travel. Small piece of plastic.


Long travel so far from stock. 3.5'' wider upper and lower control arms per side and an 8'' long shock.

 

Can you look up your own VIN to see if any recall work had been done or something?

 

been doing alot of that already

 

Will you post a pic of that set-up. I just finished my OME lift and want to do the same tire set-up.

 

yah, i'll update my build when I get em on. They're coming from a family member who's tired of storing a set of brand new tires that he has no vehicle for. so i get to "borrow" them when I move to OR. So excited to move to a new state and explore new stuff.