Total Chaos outboard shock mounts

considering the frame isn't boxed from the factory..not really.

If you boxed the frame and did that it might be worth it.

However, at that point and all that work..id rather just LT the rear.

 

IIRC there's at least one place that sells kits to box the rear frame. Couple hours of welding and a square tube to join the two rails and I wouldn't have any strength concerns with it. Doesn't seem like as much work as LT to me but YMMV

 

Trail gear makes a box kit. Boxes most of the rear frame.

And for a SUA setup..wouldnt be that much more work and you would pull 18'' vs 10..

notching the frame also would have the problem with the bed, you'd have to notch the bed as well or part of it for the mount of the shock. If you go through the bed, might as well be with 16'' shocks.

 

Ag

Ah, fair enough, I didn't even think about cutting the bed.

 

Yes, the rear is strapped. I kept the factory spring plates with integrated shock mounts. Jacked the truck up with a forklift, let the rear droop out, measured the distance, subtracted 2 inches and bought straps from camburg. They're 24" straps IIRC, and you account for an inch of stretch per foot of strap, or something like that.

TL;DR, it's strapped lol.

 

Since people have asked about the straps;

 

If you do the SUA conversion, would it lower the bottom shock mount points to where the longer ads shocks would fit under the bed?

 

Lower shock mounts are relative. You can have them under the axle if you want down a few inches. That said by going sua you are moving the whole axle up 3-4". So...no. if you go sua you will have to go through the bed for shocks no matter what

 

Ah I would think with the greater spring arch it would compensate. I'm starting to think the king's might just be the best way to go in the rear. They fit. No question. As much good as I've heard about ads, it seems like I would just go LT if I went through all that.
What if you cut into the wheel well to move the shock body up an out of the way of the tire. Yeah you'd need a longer stroke length and wouldnt utilize all of it, but then you'd have that shock available if you later switched to LT. Just revavle it an everything haha. Seems like a rather silly idea but it's a thought that crossed my mind

 

So, there's also the option of getting the ADS 8" travel (compressed length of 17.5") and having them not put the stroke limiting disk in, which would give it 9" of travel, and the guy I spoke with at ADS said they've done that under the bed on a first gen, so that might be a good option over going King. The other option is getting the 10" and having the welded rod end mount instead of the standard billet version. He said that decreased compressed length to 18.5" (decreased by 1").

 

Are you going with the TC mounts?

 

What leafs? What length shackles? I think it's risky business buying shocks without measuring the suspension numbers first....

 

I mean, I can only fit so large of a shock in there, even if I was limiting my leaf flex by having one slightly too short. I agree that it's not optimal. Haven't ordered anything yet. I'd set up an order before realizing that the compressed length my be too long so it's on hold until I figure it out. I'm thinking that I should just get the frame swap done and then I'll have a straight frame to base off of. It's all kinda confusing to me so I'm just trying to learn so I don't screw it up and order the wrong stuff when it comes down to it.
The TC shackles seem like a pretty sweet way to mount things up. Is that only useful in the LT setup? Or for a longer than stock spring? Seems interesting.

I feel like I'd benefit from looking at my vehicle with someone experienced who could help me understand the geometry issues and what the various options would actually fit like.

 

The shackles are only for longer springs w/ sua. If you stay soa, keep the stock shackles or stock length aftermarket and get your lift from the leaf springs for the best handling.