Cold Air Intakes. Debunking false claims.

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I was thinking the same thing.

 

http://www.jbcarpages.com/toyota/tundra/2008/pictures/images/2008_toyota_tundra_picture (47).jpg

 

Tacoma fits in garage, gets 20mpg, i dont tow.

Keep trying

 

You forgot one key, important thing here: Superchargers sound badass.

 

This is true

 

What year model is that? So all these recall letters that show up in the mail from corp are misinformation? Sure, OK. Don't care how many are sold a month. Still the best choice with least amount of bullshit but that's not some perfectness so let's not pretend that. I've had Toyota's all my 40+ yrs of driving, some better than others, all of them better than most of what else there is on many levels but none were perfect. Lovin the "J" VIN 2018 RAV4 SE we have but again, not perfect. We all know that it doesn't matter what intake or filter you use, the rest of the motor and exhaust simply won't allow infinite amounts of air thru the motor, no matter what you stick on the front of the throttle body. Sure, oiled filters gak up MAFs, sometimes. Use one or not. Somebody make a list of what's moddable and what's not......oh, I got it - everything except air intake\filter, there ya go. Maybe a sticker in the door sill warning about it would stop the madness.

 

Here, I'll spell it out for you......I wanted a dry washable filter enclosed in a box breathing thru the oem fender well opening and a less cluttery setup under the hood giving access to a few other things without having to remove the whole intake. K&N tube, Volant box, aFe dry flo filter. The extra noise was a bonus. I make no claims other than not having to ever buy another filter, liking the way it looks & having no adverse effects compared to oem.

 

Nonody said they were perfect man. Just putting things in perspective. For newbies, reading on here makes it seem like the majority of them are f'd up and that couldn't be further from the truth.

 

I am wondering a smaller filter area letting more air in into the engine would it also pull some dust in it as well. I would like to see oil sample results n pictures of intake after running 2k miles on gravel roads.

 

I'll stick to OEM. They were fun on my ricers.....

 

and yet with all their flaws you've listed here, you just keep on buying Toyota products.

 

I didn't say anybody said they were perfect. Nothing is......

"I've had Toyota's all my 40+ yrs of driving, some better than others, all of them better than most of what else there is on many levels".........."Still the best choice with least amount of bullshit".....missed that in my post right? Yes I do keep buying them because Toyotas are least flawed and highest resale and most dependable IMO.

 

so its bitching for the sake of bitching, when your throwin out the disses when it comes to Toyota quality, Roger that

 

Only 180 off. Look at it the other way....I said Toyota was the best of what there is to buy but not perfect. Keep twistin it however you want. It really doesn't matter what I post you're just gonna keep being Richard instead of William.

 

Both of you ladies have good points. Cant be too extreme on either side of the argument. There is a happy medium.

Nice discussion, tho!

 

I cant believe the round and round people go with this....
Not K&N, and not a 2nd gen...but a toyota truck V6

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPWC_td-j0M


but that being said..


You will see different results across the board for every car, truck, year... If truck 1, has had a shitty owner with no maintenance you will see lower numbers than a toyota truck #2 that has been well maintained and taken care of. A motor with junk in the motor, extra carbons, and everything else can alter results. Gas used in the last few tanks can change results. different Oils can change the friction in a motor, which can change power. (which is a totally different argument) So what i am saying is, Can a CAI work and make more power, Sure it can... But it can give you no results or even worse results also.

 

Yeah I posted this early in the thread and no one noticed. It’s a /thread post but people would rather argue.

 

Here, tell me what all is wrong with this vs oem............it has been just fine for 120,000 miles and still good. Better seal around the filter tube going into box than in thread and finagled it where the filter can be removed just by taking lid off box. I wanted a dry washable filter enclosed in a box breathing thru the oem fender well opening and a less cluttery setup under the hood giving access to a few other things without having to remove the whole intake. K&N tube, Volant box, aFe dry flo filter. The extra noise was minimized by enclosed box. Still has oem baffle inside fender well. I make no claims other than not having to ever buy another filter, liking the way it looks & having no adverse effects compared to oem. Didn't post here to argue merits of bare exposed filters or this being any better than oem. It has been no worse either, pretty much same except washable filter and less clutter with a visual on filter needing cleaning or not. It is simply what I wanted to end up with. Am open to discussion of perceived shortcomings of this setup. I tried all 3 types of intakes, didn't like any, went back to oem & then this happened one day instead of selling all 3.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/kva-intake-mix.241587/

 

Actually it is not an /thread. Not even close.

If you look at the dyno chart that is provided on the video. You can see how this particular intake isnt doing any wonders in the torque and power department. It even shows losses in certain spots of the power-band.

As previously stated, dyno “data” from a manufacturer trying to sell you a product is questionable at best.