Anything welding

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Remember now that Esab owns Thermal Dynamics quality is going down hill fast .

 

$60 more for 3 year warranty after 1year manufacturer's ends.

 

I'm still thinking the ViperCut 30 is a good fit for me. Looks like a cheap chinese machine with some reps in the US for parts / warrentee

@koditten @Wyoming09 do either of you have experience with this brand?

GambleGarage on weldingweb has been selling them and hyping them up.

 

For plasma Hypertherm should be your only consideration. The millers were made by them for years. I went in to buy a Miller and the guy at the welding supply gave me a lesson. He pulled every brochure from every make they sold. He then went make by make and showed me all of the specs on IPM (inches per minute). Hypertherm met or beat everyone. He then went on to say that Hypertherm’s specs could be counted on word for word. The competition might be able to make their specs in a lab environment but the best tradesmen he knew couldn’t hit the numbers except with the Hypertherm.

Now my Hypertherm has been flawless and I have no complaints. I did have one issue but an email to Hypertherm and I had their head technical service guy on the phone under 24 hours. Problem solved and was exactly what they suggested. Saved me sending it in, paying shipping and being without a machine.

We use them at work as well and must have a dozen around the plant at a minimum. That doesn’t include the spares or those being repaired. Hypertherm created bulk consumable pack sizes just for our company due to the amount we use. So think about that for a second. If you use it as much as we do you don’t buy the cheap crap or budget machines. We have machines at least 10 years old used every day. Sucks in a way because we have to keep different consumables for machines that just won’t die.

 

I know nothing about them.

I only had Miller as a choice when I bought mine. I need to put hands on when I buy high end tools.

I feel they would work fine for a home hobbyist welder. If running a shop, imight not feel comfortable wondering how long it will last.

Like mentioned by Craig, an auxiliary air filter will extend comsumables by a huge factor. I wish I was home, I would post a pic of my filter. Think whole house water filter and you will have an idea if my air filter.

 

Absolutely. My hypertherm has one internally plus my external one going into the machine plus the one main near my compressor. You can’t filter too much with a plasma.

 

Just got the eastwood 40 the other day seem's to be pretty solid but never using a plasma cutter before I'm still getting used to it.

 

The best thing is damp cotton rags for preventing spark damage and fires

When welding around the windshield they are great .

I don`t ever think I saw a Viper Cut in person. Then of course a Vendor selling them is going to promote his product.

I use the Motor Guard 26 Filter mounted on a custom bracket that sits on top of the plasma unit.

Even the best air dryer at the compressor can`t keep condensation out of your air lines.

I know budgets come into play but if your serious about cutting Hypertherm is the only way to go .

Saying that I am still a Oxy- fuel torch person old habits die hard I don`t get into enough Aluminum or Stainless to fire up the Plasma even though all it takes is open a ball valve and turn it on.

 

Just be sure to read the fine print I have dealt with a few of those type warranties .

They for the most are from a independent company they all seem to fight tooth and nail to not pay any claims .

Always finding someway to prove customer damage.

If they give you a brand new unit then it is a good deal.

Just find out all the details before spending the money .

Like just where the machine needs to go can it be dropped off local or does it need to be shipped on your dime ?

Does it need to be in the original box .

In any case best of luck.

 

That 40a was on sale last week we picked one up so far it's awesome.

 

Dumb question.. with 2x6 square tube, obviously I'll try and sand as much of the surface rust off on the inside, but you can't get it all; so what does one do about the remaining rust? Will it be an issue if both ends of the tube are closed off and thus creating a seal for 100% interior containment? If there's no more moisture or air getting inside, the existing rust can't expand, right?

Also.. finally got a little more practice on my new Hobart 210. It looks like I'm still getting a ton of undercut. I'm using flux-cored wire for now (ie. pulling). Practiced a lap weld where the bottom piece is 1/4" thick and the top is 3/16". The left is a stringer and the right is a slight weave. Am I moving too slow? Or is it possible I didn't let the metal cool down after the stringer?

 

Try watching some YouTube videos where you can see how the movement of the squirt gun and how it looks when actually welding. Then for the settings use the chart usually on the inside of the welder for a “base” setting. Then adjust from there for personal preference.

After that just practice practice practice. You’ll be a pro in no time

 

You have to know and understand just what is happening in your weld puddle.

Then move the puddle to where it needs to go. One instructor would say" Make it dance to your tune"

You need to be in position to see what your doing .

Cover plates need to be clean .

you need to be comfortable you can get into all the contorted positions and weld using a mirror when you have your basics mastered

The best joints to practice on are Tee joints weld one side and then break it you can see your penetration , cold lap and under cutting quite well . 2 4"x4" plates one can get quite a few joints .

They let you do vertical up as well .

Undercutting can be caused by a few things to fast of travel speed

not pausing quite long enough on that toe of the weld

 

Questions:
.030 OR .035 solid wire?
Is Lincoln wire the "best"?
Currently using .035 Vulcan brand.
Welding anything from 1/8 to 1/4.

 

Both

 

Ive been using .023 for most everything these days myself. I also used .035 quite a bit but didn't like it as much on the thinner stuff (am doing a fair amount sheetmetal stuff)

As for wire...licoln is good. Ive also used the Hobart branded stuff and also Indel (thing that the name) and have liked all

 

Heading to the gas supply I'll see what they have. Testing the plasma cutter later

 

I use all .023 wire for any welding on these vehicles .

Whats nice I can turn the voltage down for thin stuff crank it up for 1/4" 5/16"

If I need to rebuild a bucket I switch feeders and run .045 or ,052

 

The chart on my Lincoln 180 says my .030 should only be used up to 1/8. Calls for .035 for bigger stuff

I’m a newbie, but am surprised to see you say @Wyoming09 .023 is good for up to 5/16”

I have been buying the Lincoln .030 but thought about getting some .035 for my next 3/16 plate project.