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What to look for before buying used?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by acmair, May 14, 2010.

  1. May 14, 2010 at 10:40 PM
    #1
    acmair

    acmair [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to be going around to some dealers and checking out some pre-owned Tacomas on the lots. What should I look for to ensure I'm not getting something worn out? I know carfax and mileage, but I mean on the body, signs of wear, abuse....etc
     
  2. May 14, 2010 at 10:51 PM
    #2
    TacomaBuzz

    TacomaBuzz Well-Known Member

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    Check The frame for rust, Tires, Brakes, Shocks, look for the 4 LEAFS on each side in the back, if it doesn't have it, make them do the TSB. If you get a 4x4, make sure you test it out.
     
  3. May 14, 2010 at 11:31 PM
    #3
    aficianado

    aficianado Well-Known Member

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    back to bone stock.
    know exactly what you want...off road package, sport package..prerunner...it all can get pretty confusing for a newbie. it makes a big difference. i got lucky buying a off road version. that locker comes in handy on backroad trips. i had no clue when i bought that truck.

    good luck.
     
  4. May 14, 2010 at 11:33 PM
    #4
    acmair

    acmair [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I know what I'm looking for, down to the smallest detail actually. 2nd Gen Pre-Runner, Double Cab, Short Bed, in BSP, with TRD OR package, graphite interior. I meant more along the lines of what to look at when inspecting the car before I buy it. I guess going with a Toyota Certified used car should be ok, but if its not from a yota dealer, I want to know what to look out for.
     
  5. May 14, 2010 at 11:37 PM
    #5
    aficianado

    aficianado Well-Known Member

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    back to bone stock.
    unlike me...sounds like you did your homework. well done! i went in blind..

    carfax. i also looked for body damage. and receipts of work.
     
  6. May 14, 2010 at 11:39 PM
    #6
    acmair

    acmair [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lol. I've been eyeing this car for a year now. Are you happy with your purchase so far? How many miles did it have if you dont mind..
     
  7. May 14, 2010 at 11:44 PM
    #7
    Dellosa89

    Dellosa89 Love peace and Taco Grease

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    If your looking at a 2005 or 2006 check the motor mounts for cracks.
     
  8. May 14, 2010 at 11:46 PM
    #8
    seksilumpia

    seksilumpia Well-Known Member

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    Performance mods: TRD CAI, AFE throttle body spacer, Doug Thorley headers, TRD exhaust. Cosmetic mods: HID 10k head+3k fog lights, BHLM, T-rex 2 eyelids, billet grill (5 piece), 20% front window tint, 4% back window tint, tinted 3rd brake light, altezza tail lights, LED license plate lights, door skid protectors, slotted drilled rotors,plasti dip rims,painted rotor and drums. Interior mods: TRD seat covers, LED map and dome lights, 2 kicker 10' w/ 500 watt amp, pioneer door speakers,and Pioneer AVIC X930BT.
    i have 73,800 mi on my 05..i love this truck..and i especially loved the fact that i smacked the shit out of a 5.7 Hemi with turbo..youll love your truck to when you buy it..i hung around the garage a lot when i first got mine just to admire it
     
  9. May 15, 2010 at 12:08 AM
    #9
    acmair

    acmair [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hate to sound like a noob but where are the motor mounts?
     
  10. May 15, 2010 at 12:15 AM
    #10
    TACOMA TRD

    TACOMA TRD Well-Known Member

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    I just bought a 07 Dble Cab Off Road 4x4 with 39k for 21k if that helps. Check underneath for mud up in the bumpers, check for any off road dents on skid plates etc.

    Get a carfax if possible.
     
  11. May 15, 2010 at 12:27 AM
    #11
    1980

    1980 Well-Known Member

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  12. May 15, 2010 at 12:31 AM
    #12
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted Well-Known Member

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    I buy several used trucks a year for my fleet, a few things I look at are:

    1. Underside: look for dents in frame and skid plate etc, if there is excessive damage, albeit cosmetic, it will still give you an indication if and how it was driven off road. Likewise, check the rim of the wheels, rocker panels etc.

    2. Look for any 'wet spots' around drive train: might indicate bad seals or worse.

    3. Take a good look at the tires wear pattern: help give an idea how it was driven and/or alignment/suspension issues.

    4. Find out what the primary use was: towing, work truck, daily driver, etc.

    5. Check all the buttons: fog lights, locker, 4HI/LO, if it has tow pkg bring an attachment to check the brake/blinker connections work, AC, etc. This is all good to know that it works before it leaves the lot; if the fog lights or something small is broken it will give you a little leverage on price. If something big is busted obviously walk away.

    6. Past driver a smoker? if you care or not a 'smokey vehicle' is worth less.

    7. Check bed rails: if the p.o. side-loaded tools or whatever there might be dents/scratches there: leverage on price.

    8. Check the rear bumpstops: there will be some sign of wear there but if it looks excessive the p.o. probably had it overloaded alot = more engine/drive wear than the miles indicate.

    9. Check the oil: it was probably just replaced before you look at it but it lets the salesman know you're not messing around and you're thorough; also pop out the airfilter, it's probably also just been replaced but look in the airbox like there is a turd in there. When I buy used trucks for my fleet I'll spend 15 minutes laying under the truck looking at stuff; it only takes me 1 min to see what I need to but it makes the seller nervous as hell :D. Repeatedly say "huh" and "ooh" and "ouch", as if you see stuff you don't like under there... most sellers don't know the difference between a transmission and leafspring...

    10. Drive it. No, really drive it; find a good place to accelerate hard through the gears (freeway on ramp) and a good place to slam the brakes 100% at about 30mph (parking lot). Rock the steering wheel hard at 10mph, etc. Feel for any looseness, binding, bad shifts, clunks, and just weird noises in general.

    Always tell them you are buying it for work and it's too nice and you don't need all the stuff it has but you're in a pinch and whatnot... it's ok to lie to salesmen.:)

    Also, if you know of one, a good mechanic will run a full diagnostic on it for $40-60, any legit seller should let you get one before buying.

    Carfax for sure! alot of stuff never makes it on there but sometimes good stuff does: I found a good looking Dodge a while back and after reviewing the Carfax I found out the 2 previous owners each had several repairs done to the rear diff and trans = I probably would have too so screw that one.

    good luck, I hope it's the one.
     
  13. May 15, 2010 at 12:35 AM
    #13
    dysfunctnlretard

    dysfunctnlretard Hi

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    NICE! I think this should be a sticky! Good info!
     
  14. May 15, 2010 at 12:38 AM
    #14
    TACOMA TRD

    TACOMA TRD Well-Known Member

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    Better yet.... well said........
     
  15. May 15, 2010 at 1:56 AM
    #15
    1980

    1980 Well-Known Member

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    Check the cabin air filter if it's an '06 or newer. If the owner followed recommended maintenance he will have replaced it. If he just slapped a cheap engine air filter in right before he went to sell then he probably forgot the cabin filter.

    Pull a spark plug. On a truck that has 65k miles the plugs should look like they have 5k on them, not 35k or worse.

    Check the bottom of the bed and cab above the drive shaft U-joints. Some grease slung up there probably means the they have been lubed.
     
  16. May 15, 2010 at 12:16 PM
    #16
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    Good point. That's another good reason to get a professional diagnostic, if the truck is at 70k and the diff fluid is toast or low they probably never did the 60k service... and they probably went long on oil changes and other maint.

    The only reason I say have a pro do it is because they document what it needs on paper and are accountable if they break something in the process... most dealers will not be cool with you busting out a socket set and checking diff fluids on the lot etc.

    Check the tire pressure too: some shady sellers will deflate the tires a little to make the ride smoother OR overinflate so it rolls easier; they should be between 30-40psi on a Taco.
     
  17. May 15, 2010 at 2:40 PM
    #17
    waynesworld

    waynesworld Well-Known Member

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    i looked at 40 used tacomas 05 08 most came from northern region .and they didn't take good care of engine compartment ,dip sticks were very corroded,oxidation of aluminium every where under the hood ,and look out 4 rims that the aluminium is popping off .:cool:
     
  18. May 15, 2010 at 5:04 PM
    #18
    buddywh1

    buddywh1 Well-Known Member

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    Wooo...I hope you're willing to compromise on equipment (ESPECIALLY color!) in favor of condition? generally have to be when shopping used.

    Don't rely too much on carfax...I know some have seen their old cars listed as clean they knew were in accidents. You still need to look for evidence of body work: paint overspray in places it shouldn't be and wavy or orange- peel finish.
     
  19. May 16, 2010 at 3:37 AM
    #19
    buddywh1

    buddywh1 Well-Known Member

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    Take it from someone who moved from desert southwest to the northeast: even taking good care things get nasty up here really fast. It's all the salt on the roads: after things dry out it gets ground into a powder that blows in and covers everything. You can taste it in the air as you drive. Try as you might, you can't keep ahead of it.

    The only way to prevent oxidation and rust is to garage it in the fall and not drive it till spring.
     

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