AC Clutch Failure - How to fix! (blinking light, squealing)

that's perfect because I saw the clutch spinning freely last night when I went to check it!
the next question is why did it fail. ill replace that sure, but if its part of a bigger problem then I want to solve that. any advice?

 

Stuff wears out. That's about it.

 

works for me! thanks everyone

 

From what I've gathered, it's because it's a Delphi unit, and I guess they're junk. Someone previously mentioned suspecting those in areas where they salt the roads being the culprit (colder climates). I guess the A/C runs when you have the defroster on. That could explain the extra wear and tear vs. those that don't deal with cold weather/winters.

Still, my 1995.5 Tacoma had 225k miles on it when I reluctantly sold it, and the A/C was still colder than a witches tit in a brass bra.

 

Probably not, because we of the south often run our AC in winter.

Not only that, it's better for the health of the whole system to be run frequently rather than it be idle for extended periods.

 

On defrost, though?


I'm wrapping mine up right now. It took less than 10 minutes. I'm working on a 2012 6 cyl. I didn't even have to remove the fan shroud, which sucks because I busted about 6 of those plastic rivets in the process of taking it off lol. Also, I only took (3) washers/spacers out with my clutch. All (4) together measured ~.062. The kit I received from ebay (same as OP) measured ~.065

Is there a way to upload pictures here, or do I have to host them somewhere?

 

I was talking about the rust. I've never seen an ac compressor with rust like that.

 

I put a new one on my 09 that has 90k on the motor a couple weeks ago and it looks like hell. Easily the most beat up component under the hood.

 

Here's what mine looked like when I got it out...

 

Thanks for the thread! I wish I could have came across this sooner, have a 2013 4cyl taco and in 2015 I got the dreaded ac light, took it to dealer and they said the compressor was "hard to turn" after having it for 4 days trying to diagnose the problem. I reluctantly agreed to have them change it all out and next thing I know I'm out somewhere between 1,000 - 1,200 dollars. Fast forward one year and one week later, same thing happens. I take it in summer of 2016 and say hey same problem what was the warranty on compressor and I get the "1 year warranty expired one week ago". So crap I didn't fix it and it has worked here and there since last summer but of course now we are back over 100 degrees it started acting up daily but I can get it to kick on sometimes by switching ac on and off. Then I stumbled across this thread and am hopeful, so I can spin the clutch by hand with truck off about 1/4 a turn. When it is on and working the clutch spins free, but here is the thing. If I turn the truck off while it's not working I can spin the clutch like I said earlier, but if it's working when I turn truck off I can not spin it at all. Hopefully this is the problem, I have replaced the relay twice and had the system checked for pressure and what not by dealer and everything was good they said. Do you guys think I'm on the right track?

Edit: I looked from top and under and can't find compressor make. I assume it's the oem Delphi one since the dealer put it on but all I could see on it was a sticker that had a bar code and the numbers 153120778

 

Ahayes444 You're getting the AC blinking light because the computer is sensing improper speed from the compressor. It's probably ready to shit the bed again.

The factory compressor is junk in my opinion and 1200 to replace one is highway robbery.

 

Excellent write up OP! I noticed my light was blinking on my '07 about a week ago. With the Heat index hitting in the 110 range here in Va, I can't let my AC fail completely for my 1 hour commute!

 

Just repaired my 2009 Tacoma TRD's A/C clutch failure per N75's instructions. Purchased the hub on e-bay and received it in just a few days. Very prompt service. I was not sure about the make of the compressor just new it was OEM as I had never had any work done on the A/C system. Fit perfectly and only took about 15 minutes to complete. It took more time removing the splash pan than anything else. Was able to reach up underneath without removing the fan guard or the fan assemble. One thing I used to hold the pully from spinning during removal and install was an oil filter wrench. Worked like a charm. Thanks N75 you saved me a bundle. BTW the old clutch hub looked just like the one pictured with the ball of rubber sticking out.

 

Hey everyone,

first things first, thank you OP for this thread. You have saved me about 800+ dollars
Secondly, can we get this to be a sticky thread?
thirdly, there were a couple things lacking explanation so i thought i would help fill the gaps for anyone ready to pull their hair out. Took me about 45 min -1hr because i tried going first through the fan /radiator way. Then gave up and went through the top of the hood/ underneath the drivers side tire (pics to follow)



I ordered the replacement hub about a week ago and it shipped really quickly. This is how it came packed



the packing contents. Came with 4 spacers. Use them all.



Location of compressor from the side: i folded back the covering to have access. I found it easier to operate from this angle, as well as the top. For me i could not remove the fan simply because my forearms kept getting in the way, and the there wasnt enough space for me to get the fan out after i had it removed. i did not have to remove a tire, just turn it to the left (i attempted removing the fan shroud and found this to be easier) I went through the top of the engine in between the battery and the oil filter. Just remember to leave the vehicle cool or the oil filter may burn your arms



front shot of the compressor, notice the melted rubber pouring out the side? hub is Kaput, compressor is fine ($500 saved)


the front of the hub after removal just as OP said, use a pair of adjustable pliers and an 8mm socket



backside of the hub. If you look closely you can see the spacers when i removed the old unit there were only 3


New spacers 4 of them on the left......old spacers 3 of them on the right, side by side comparison


new hub with the 8mm bolt, i used all four spacers and placed it on the same way i took it off.
after you tighten it, torque the centre bolt to 10 ft*lbs/13.5 N*m /138 kgf*cm
also using a small torque wrench will help you out, its a tight approach coming from the top


I tested it out, no blinking light and cool air coming from the vents. Thanks again OP.

 

Click on upload file on the bottom right.

 

NOISE COULD HAVE BEEN BEARING ON PULLY. WHEN HUB WAS REMOVED YOU CAN ALSO REMOVE PULLY PUNCH OUT OLD BEARING PUNCH IN NEW THEN REPLACE ALL

 

N75 you are the man!!

End of last summer, AC goes out - squealing compressor - blinking light ..... I go to Stealer and two days later I am quoted $2200 to get AC back. It’s the end of summer, so I figure I will wait till spring 2018 and pony-up.

Jump to this week and I start researching best option and stumble onto this thread. I ordered part Monday, arrived today and half hour later I have AC!

Thank You to N75 and this entire community! I love my Truck again

Thanks,
Mike

 

Trying this tomorrow on my 09 V6. Clutch failed once right after I purchased the truck in 2012 with 40k miles on it. Last November my a/c light started blinking and a shop quoted 1100 to replace the compressor and related components. I ended up testing the clutch myself and found that it was bad....parts ordered from ebay (refurb/used, not new) for only $70 with a 1 year warranty. Hopefully it goes smoothly!

 

let us know how it goes Chris

 

Bill, thanks for bumping this!