2011 Pyrite Mica LT Build & BS

Bedcage:
Trailing Arm mounts:

Panhard upper mount:

 

Ending up getting the 19” out of the Solo kit and strapped the rear right around 27” (10 up/17” down) For all you NC folks out there, I had a great experience with Scott at Metalwerx Fab in Hickory NC. He is a real stand up guy and was straightforward and honest with me throughout the entire build. I’ll be dropping the truck back off in June for a cage and a few odds and ends (supercharger??)

 

@WhiteTacoJerms

 

So your truck is super sick but just curious because I’ve heard a lot of different opinions about linking and no cage, are you at all worried about the strength of your truck now that you’ve linked it with no cage? And why or why not? And I know you said you’re doing a cage but i mean for the time being

 

I’m not worried about it. Most the arguments I’ve heard for links and a cage are based off safety not necessarily strength (although that is a benefit). The frame is boxed, everything that can be is gusseted, solid motor and trans mounts, I think it will be fine.

 

You don’t need a full cage if you link your truck...that’s like saying you need a v8 if you tint your windows

How do you think links adversely affect the strength of your truck ?

 

Not even close to the same, and like I said I’m no expert and here for advice not ridicule, but I’ve heard from different people you do and you don’t. I’ve heard it puts to much force focused on ththe center of the frame where the links mount and that your truck will fold in half. But then there’s guys like you that compare it to window tint and a v8, so if you could fill me in on why you do or do t need a cage to run links I’d like to hear your opinion

 

Selling the 05-15 4x4 Camburg kit that just came off my truck. Bought it in ‘16, about 10,000 miles on the kit. Heim Uppers, 4x4 axles, Fox coilovers and triple bypasses, oem steering rack, gusseted spindles all for sale. Hit me up via PM for price.

 

No ridicule intended amigo that's why I ended with the crazy comparison and the funny rim shot emoji. There are plenty of people ( including myself ) running links without a fully caged truck. Caging your truck is far more about safety when you have a suspension capable of "extreme" driving IE: roll over safety.

The most common failure point I have witnessed on multiple occasions is the rear bump area, the rear end of the frame will fold right over from a hard bottom out. This is one of the reasons why plating the back half of the frame has become so popular.

I'm not an engineer but here is a quick sketch of a typical leaf sprung truck w/a bed cage vs a link set up w/ a bed cage. So logically why would a linked truck put any more force on the frame ?

 

Those pics are awesome! No, seriously. I can tell just by glancing at them that the main point of stress is where the links bolt onto the frame, in the front. I will use these pics for reference in the future. But on second glance, doesnt the leafs have the same situation?

 

This build scares me...but in a good way.

 

To add to what you have said, a bed cage for a linked truck needs to be stronger than a cage for a leaf sprung truck because its taking all of the damping and spring force. But as you said, you will see your highest forces at your bump stops. Either way, adding a cab cage is almost entirely for safety however its generally accepted that if you are going fast and hard enough to use the full capability of links, an accident without a cage would be very devastating.

 

I would actually say that the main stress point is in the bed cage where the coilover is, that front pivot point on the link is just that - a pivot point IMO

 

The main point of stress is actually the cage taking all the force from the shocks and springs. Until you hit your bump zone and then its wherever your bump stops are mounted.

 

Yup, this.

To add another twist to the scenario...links are not just for driving 80mph through whoops and hucking sweet airs though... IE: T4R's are linked along with many other OE vehicles, it is just a different suspension style that provides a far more solid set up WITH a lot more adjustability vs leafs. My truck for example is a full expo style build with a camper shell and swing gate rear bumper with a 35" spare hanging off of it. If I went smashing whoops my camper shell would stress fracture to sh*t and my spare would bend or break my rear swing out gate. I linked my truck because I was sick of dealing with leaf springs :

• I was on my third set broke one and had a custom expo pack built that was way too stiff, had a second expo pack built that worked well but still had all of the inherent issue you get with leafs.
• No way to "adjust leafs...you build them to handle your fully loaded expo weight then drive around the other 300 days per year like a friggin pogo stick and ass high.
• Adjusting pinion angle sux with leafs...shims.
• Axle roll stinks

With links :

• Rock solid drive line feel
• Zero axle roll
• Infinitely adjustable pinion angle by adjusting the heims on your upper link(s)This is easily done by hand, you simply loosen the jamb nut on the heim and then spin the 3rd member with your bare hands.
• Can easily pop off the coilovers to swap springs if want/need
• Can easily adjust pre load while the CO's are still on the truck so IE: if I load up for a trip and sag a bit I just jack it up and drop it out and spin the collars a bit...get home from trip take the preload off and she rides like a 72 Caddy
• And last but not least is a neat side effect of links is that you end up with 20-30 inches ( depending on CO length etc ) of travel should you feel the need to go full retard and huck your carcass.

 

Yeah I totally agree, I plan on doing some sort of link set up for these same reasons. Leafs suck!

 

Exactly the kind of stuff I’m looking for thanks! you have any pictures of your rear set up?

 

Sorry OP ...thread jack :/

edit - deleted my post

 

Do you have a build thread?

 

no...I really need to build one so I don't have to thread jack when people ask me for info. I will start one soon.