What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Yeah mine travels farther in the front being LT but its hard to get IFS to flex like that 3 link. You can do either with both and keep up but they also each have their specialty too

 

For those that have swapped out ADD CV axles, did you disconnect the lower ball joint from the lower control arm, leaving the LBJ attached to the spindle and disconnect the outer tie rod end from the LBJ? I am curious because I've never done it that way and never seen it done that way.

The way I learned was to remove the 4 nuts holding the LBJ to the spindle/knuckle then swing/pivot the entire assembly out of the way using the OTRE as the pivot point.

Is there an advantage to doing it the first way?

 

The first way is, if I remember correctly, how Just Differentials in Cashmere does their labor to drop the front diff for gear replacement.

The second way is how I swapped out an axle, driver side of course.

 

The only thing I could see is not removing those 4 bolts to the ball joint. You arent really supposed to re-use those 4 bolts so it would be better to remove the nut from the stud and that way you only have to replace the cotter pin

 

Had some fun in the mud
Finally got my friend, who I convinced to buy his 1st Gen, to finally wheel it.... I think we got another fan

 

That's what I do, much easier too if you have an air hammer

 

For clearing over cheap stuff I use rustoleum x2 clear. I've had great results with that stuff over any kind of rattle can paint I used including rusto bedliner. It's not as durable as 2k, but it can get the job done for certain things where a nails-tough finish isn't necessary. I've also used Upol Clear and that stuff is much more durable. It seems like you want to be using a farm implement paint with a hardener to get the durable finish you're after. You can buy quarts of it from Amazon - Valspar is a popular choice. Most guys will thin it to make it more workable either spraying or with a brush - I read that it self levels pretty well. I never put a 2k clear over a single stage base coat that wasn't meant for 2k to go over it (single stage paint from auto paint store is meant to go with a 2k clear, rusto and the like are not meant to be covered w/ 2k) That's asking for disaster - even months after a single stage paint is laid down it can still be gassing off and bubble your clear - ask me how I know

I've undercoated my truck w/ rusto professional and I am disappointed with the results. It chips easily - I was expecting it to be more like their bedliner.

 

Makes sense why my toolbox was having adhesion issues. Although I was using DupliColor Toyota 221 Automotive paint.

 

I can't speak for Duplicolor, but I've had better results with single stage mixed by an auto paint store and put in a rattle can - it's $30 a can or so, but it's meant to be coated over with 2k.

 

Yeah that setup really has me looking into 3-link, specifically the one made by 4wu. Can get the full kit and coilovers for just over $3k, kinda comparable to LT. But it would require me to source some FJ80 axles, regear again, get a steering setup figured out, etc etc. Considering I already am able to take my IFS places people never thought possible (and probably have no business being at to begin with) already, for now I think just getting a decent IFS mid travel setup dialed in will more than suit my needs. A full float rear would be nice though.

 

haven’t posted in awhile but finally around to do some work to the taco. so far today I finally changed up the wheels temporarily just somethin until i can afford some new wheels. next up is throwin my lightbar in the bumper, interior color change and some new brakes lol ($$$$$)

 

I have not heard that before. Are you suggesting the bolts stretch when torqued? Or the threads deform like u-bolt threads when torqued.

I have always reused bolts in the past when normal maintenance requires removal and reinstallation. I do use brand new bolts when I replace the BJ, but have kept the old bolts for backup if they look good. Of course, I always use loctite regardless of the situation.

What do you suggest for those of us that don't have an air hammer? Or don't have or want to use a puller setup as suggested in this video? See what he does at 44:55

 

Simple. Bolts and plugs right up. No mods needed

 

Use a pitman puller or stop pulling your spindles off haha.

 

I suggest getting one of those pullers or beating the piss out of it with a hammer. I have a puller set which has helped me out a ton.

 

Thats actually what I meant. I am just saying thats the only advantage I could see pulling the bj instead of the 4 bolts, bolts do stretch and many bolts cannot be used more than once. Being the problem area of bj breakage I dont ever remove those 4 bolts. But I don't have 4wd so the only time I need to take any of that apart is for bj replacement, I just use a sledge hammer and pound the old ones out

 

Finished editing from last weeks trip. Ran Pott's Mountain Jeep trail in VA, did a couple hundred miles on an overland loop, and wheeled in the day and night in Gore, VA.

Some favorite shots of @ToyRyd04 and @Rockbaron1 and myself:

IMG_0570 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0557 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0553 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0548 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0529 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0528 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0522 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0457 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0379 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0336 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0331 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0271 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0258 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0224 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0219 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0200 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0183 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_0178 by Michael Halat, on Flickr

 

a sharp/hard hit on the spindle at the joint pass through location with a dead blow will generally free the tie rod and ball joint (you must hit the spindle at each pass through area.) keep the nut on so if you miss the spot your trying to hit you dont damage the threads.

 

This does work well if you can get a solid angle on it to hit

 

I usually do it on a rack, so I can get any angle I want, I know, I'm cheating....