Tacoma - OVTUNE - VFTUNER - Update Info and Original Development

What do we need to hookup/plug in/look under-the-hood to find the out which ECU is ours?

Thanks

 

It says it in PCMFlash when you click Identify

 

Does PCMflash need to be connected to the truck at this point?

 

The tune does not stress me out, but using the computer does.

 

I have not yet done this. Now that you mention it, I remember reading about the crankshaft sensor in this thread many pages back. Have you heard about this being done by the dealer without the usual hassle? Also, thanks for the suggestion.

 

Yes, you need to open pcm flash (assuming you have already downloaded it), connect the obd cable to your truck and laptop. Turn it on in accessory mode(pushing start button twice without turning engine on), and click identify in pcm flash. It will then tell you the ecu version.

 

Thank you

 

Dealers will give you hassle if you aren't on the recall list, aren't killing your catalytic converters, or showing CELs but these sensors cause problems for folks long before codes are thrown. In my case I had a horrendous rough idle that continued to get worse and the timing kept getting all out of sorts along w/ pivoting from running overly rich to really lean without clear patterns. The part itself is $100 and is a 5 min swap... Maybe you have a better dealer than me but I've had to fight to get anything even looked at on my truck so it was worth the $100 gamble and it paid of in a BIG way. Of course when I mentioned it to the dealer on my next visit they acted oblivious like it was all in my head... the motto "no codes, no problems....."

Part # https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-sensor-crank-positi-9091905098

and there are threads on here that show how to swap it. basically, turn your wheels to the left, leave your truck for a few hours so the engine is cold, pull back the shield behind the passenger wheel well, locate the sensor, use an angled socket to remove the 10mm bolt holding it to the engine block, then remove the clip (removing the sensor before the connector makes this way easier), rub some oil around the O-ring on the new one, insert, bolt, connect, enjoy.

 

I am going to continue to watch with intent of purchase after the install process issues are smooth as butter! No hurry on my part. July 4th sale?!

 

Yeah, I gathered that would be the case. I was just reading up on the recall info and of course I never got a letter from Toyota. My local dealer truly sucks ass, so I’m gonna check out a new one for my 25k service which is right around the corner. Thanks again for your input and experience with these guys.

 

09/15 production truck, never got a letter for the CKP either. I can't tell you how many times I checked my VIN online to see if that recall would come up. Nope.
According to the recall documents, my truck fell into the timeframe.. but, only knowing the month/date wasn't enough. I had the dealer find the exact date my truck was produced, and it turns out it was TOO EARLY. Yep, lol.

 

Yep I ended up talking with an engineer oddly and when I told him my production date he confirmed my truck was manufactured (Aug'16) just AFTER the production change. Which leads me to believe either I had a different problem the CKP happened to solve or they haven't identified all of the affected vehicles. But then again perhaps mine wasn't necessarily at risk of stall, just slowly destroy my cats with fuel dump...

 

What problem did you solve (symptoms) by replacing your crack pos sensor? I apologize if you already explain this, maybe you can give me the post#

 

rough idle - truck shaky at a stop, RPMs bouncing (not compressor related), and overall inconsistency in AFRs (when it ran super rich my steering got heavy, and I could even smell fuel).

 

what's ironic/funny is that the problem wasn't with the CKP itself, it was with the crankshaft rotor (which has teeth that the sensor uses to read engine speed). the rotors had too much anti-corrosion coating on them that caused static to build up against the sensor and throw off readings so the answer was to put in a new sensor thats more static electricity-resistant. seems to have worked though at least. my truck idles smooth

 

After I send my dongle serial number am I good to start tuning or do I still have to wait for another email?

 

You have to wait for him to send you a code. Then you paste that code in and activate

 

So I installed the 91 today from the 87 Ive been running. Im also running 91 Chevron gas. Anyone else think its much more jerky and gas pedal is more sensative? Not sure which one I like better yet. Anyone on here prefer the 87 smoothness over the 91?

 

Interesting - if you're on 1.04, it will settle down once it learns. you'll like it.

 

Im on 1.04. Its kinda jerky and not as smoothe as the 87. Ill try it out for a while. Havnt noticed the power yet between the two either but i do want to tap the trucks full potential hence trying the 91