What does a clutch fluid accumulator do?

Just like the title says, im trying to figure out what the clutch fluid accumulator is there for and wether or not its needed? Mine recently got stripped out while doing a clutch job so i just bypassed it cuz i need my truck, and the dealership said $120 and it would take 7-10 days to get a new one. After getting the truck all put back together and bleeding the clutch line, the only difference i can feel without it is that my clutch pedal is softer.

Thanks

 

It releases the clutch smoother for novice drivers. I removed mine. It makes the clutch a little bit easier to depress and gives it better feel. It is also required if you're installing a twin disc clutch for the extra travel needed to disengage the clutch. I have a Competition Clutch Stage 3 dual friction clutch and needed the extra travel for my clutch to disengage completely.

 

@rat107 I know this is an older post but hoping your still around - I'm looking to bypass mine as well, wondering what piece you used in the middle to eliminate it, or hose, or whatever. Thanks!

 

https://youtu.be/gNWWoNDpmDE

 

That's a great video. Thanks!

Would you happen to know the thread size? I'm going to try and measure this weekend. That accumulator has to go for more feel.

I've never played with brake / clutch lines one cars but have messed around with braided stuff on bikes a lot. Is it easy to bent that upper line into the right position? Any tips?

I was going to ask this on YT, but the comments were off. I can understand the reason for that.

Thanks again.

 

Geez, thanks for this info Rat. I never knew that damn thing was in there, but I've always hated the lack of feel in this clutch system. I just figured it was an artifact of the hydraulics. More nanny crap headed for the dumpster.

So you did this back in 2015,...no residual issues? Is that coupler metric? Source?

 

Should be M10 x 1.0 bleed screws aside (they tend to vary) I don't know any Toyota hydro fitting that isn't.

I'm confident enough that I'm buying this from Amazon now that I'ma aware of the stupid dampener.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006HI66XY/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=AATF6ZARMZ4LJ&psc=1

I thought it was just the way things were, that it likes to slip the clutch, now I can finally put all the power to the wheels.

 

So this is the thing that makes my clutch come back up slowly? In dead of winter, (below 0) my clutch wont come back up at all.

 

Pretty much.

Good fluid like Typ200 DOT4 will help a good amount. Even better if you flush the system real well before you fill it with the expensive stuff.

Greasing all pivots with superlube Teflon grease also helps, replacing the clutch pedal spring etc.

Hell I even replaced the flex line with a SS braided brake line, again helped some.

I was still having sticky pedal issues and Florida winters are pretty dang mild, so ultimately to fix my pedal I replaced the flimsy bulging stock plastic master cylinder that's under the pedal (I'd love to meet the engineers that thought that joke up and relieve them of their degrees) and that giant wallered out plastic abomination they called a clutch pedal with a modified steel pedal from an FJ cruiser, and a BeckArnley alloy master cylinder.

I used a linear spring to pull the pedal up vs that barrel spring stock that pushes the pedal up. (mechanical advantage for the win) and instead of the silly ball tip on the master cylinder I put a threaded clevis and pinned it to the modified steel pedal.

Basically my pedal has reduced throw, is easier to disengage, and has linear tension that pulls the master cylinder back up.

As a side benefit I got to place and angle it exactly how I wanted.

I only just found out about the third FU Tojo gave us, that dang accumulation valve.

You best believe that thing is disappearing as soon as I get that coupler.

 

Thanks. That is the thread type that I found after I posted here. I also found that the Taco uses 3/16in lines.

It looks like there were a few type of lines to the accumulator. On my 3rd Gen, both lines are hard and there is not enough slack to just use a coupler.

I bought one of these:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-brake-line/911pvf/4291220/2017/toyota/tacoma

Ignore the pic. It comes with two male ends. I just need to fine female ends and for my friend to get his double flare tool back.

Also, the coupler that you linked is a bubble flare. I am not 100% certain, but looking at other clutch line parts on the web, I believe we are double flare, not bubble flare? That coupler might not work?

 

We are double flare in the sense that the bubble flare is the male tit inside the female cavity, so the male brake line has the female bubble cavity. So each end is both male and female technically, hence double flare.

At least that's my understanding of it all.

 

Good explanation. That might be why I'm struggling to find female ends for that line.

So, then maybe that coupler plus the line to go from the hard line above the accumulator directly to the slave? I don't know if 8in is enough now. The accumulator on my 3rd Gen is 30mm tall and 40mm long. I didn't get a dimension for the line to the slave.

 

Not sure how different the 3rd gen is from the 2nd gen, however I was just looking at mine to get an idea of how big a project it was going to be to replace it and it looked to me like you would need a 12-inch line at least if you were going to replace the one coming from the slave cylinder.

Fortunately for us 2nd genners it looks pretty easy to flex the hard lines slightly and put the coupler in.

Unfortunately for me specifically, looks like I'm going to need to drop my heavy ass skids and possibly pull my front drive shaft. So although I got the piece I need it's going to have to wait till the weekend.

I just hope it stays nice like it is now till then. Florida is getting scary close to the hot as hell humid as balls time of year.

 

Thanks for the intel Key-Rei! This is hot on my "stupid Tacoma shit to fix" list, but I haven't had time to research the parts needed. I'll follow this thread.

 

Cant you just take the fitting out and drill through it, then it's just another coupler in the line

 

The accumulator and slave are on the left side of the transmission case, away from the drive shaft.

I forgot to snap a pic when I had the heat shield off and was measuring:

 

The accumulator is not a just a coupling. I think is has some kind of expansion system on the inside. I don't know if it is a diaphragm, ball spring, or whatever and don't think a drill would fix it.

 

Hmmm

 

Gotta pull my transmission tomorrow....might have to do some more deleting

 

Which is required, the accumulator or removal?

Edit: found it: http://www.xr-underground.com/threads/bypassing-clutch-accumulator.50995/page-2#post-973030

I have to try too, my Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch worked fine first, but now after break-in it’s been hard to get gears in despite of the clutch rod adjustment.